Tips for Planting Bulbs

Fall brings a great range of plants to bring in the season, from heat tolerant plants to endure a long, hot fall, to cold-lovers that will survive through to spring! Here are ten seasonal favorites. Croton This tropical foliage plant would really do well throughout the warm season, but it is a fantastic addition to fall gardens for its leaves in shades of red, yellow, and orange. It will endure until first frost, but it may want protection if temperatures dip below zero. Ornamental Peppers Many colors and forms are available, but they all scream South Louisiana like few other ornamental plants. Just like the edible sweet and hot peppers we grow for food, these beauties will not slow down as long as temperatures stay mild. Another heat lover that will carry us into the fall feeling, even if temperatures are summertime-hot! Ornamental Cabbage and Kale The first two choices might not survive a harsh winter, but Ornamental cabbage can thrive in heat and cold alike. They are not even fussy about soil or sun. And, since the colorful foliage is the attractive feature of the plant, one need not worry about how to make it bloom! Plant cabbages fall through spring for a long-lasting show. Edible Greens While we are growing cabbages for ornament, why not share some edible greens in the landscape? They can be planted right now and endure until spring, and many varieties of lettuce or chard offer beautiful leaf colors. Nothing will brighten your mood on a cold January morning like a nice bed of healthy greens to bring to the supper table! Camellia sasanqua While the Camellia japonica, with its large, rosy blooms in spring, is more famous, Sasanquas are a smaller species that are essential for the fall landscape. Blooming will commence in Late September or anytime in October, and carry on through Christmas. Many sizes and forms are available, from tree-sized beauties, to the dwarf, sun-loving Shi Shi Gashira. Try a unique variety and become a Camellia collector. All Seasons carries many unusual and hard-to-find ones. Autumn Sage Fall is a great time to see hummingbirds in the back yard. Why not plant some nectar plants to attract more to your yard. The aptly named Autumn Sage always hits a peak bloom in fall, and is a hummingbird favorite. Plants get about 2-3 feet tall and around, and remain evergreen. Good drainage is essential for these Texas Natives. Snapdragons The jewels of the winter garden, Snapdragons can be planted in fall and will continue to perform through early May. Dwarf and tall varieties are available, but the tall ones always bloom the best. Flowering may slow down if temperatures dip below freezing, but the plants survive and resume in spring with another big show. If flowering slows down, cut them back to encourage reblooming. Petunias Gardeners flock to nurseries every spring for flats upon flats of petunias. We should be planting them in fall instead. They rarely survive summer heat, but make it through winter just fine, so why not get the most bang for our buck? Petunias planted in fall will be better-rooted come spring, anyway, so it actually improves their heat tolerance. Little Henry Sweetspire Most of our native trees go more brown than golden in winter, due to mild temperatures, but a proven provider of fantastic fall color is Virginia Willow, or Sweetspire. Little Henry is a dwarf form that stays at about 3 feet. Leaves turn burgundy-purple in fall but persist on the plant nearly all winter, making a ruby gem of color in otherwise green and brown landscapes.  Viola Tired of your pansies rotting, failing to bloom, fading in the heat? Though related, the tiny viola is everything a pansy is not. Though they are not bulletproof, violas bloom better and for longer, are more heat tolerant, and seem to shake off moisture-related illness better than their larger-flowered cousin. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

Stop Fall Weeds Before They Take Over Your Louisiana Lawn The weather may be cooling down, but that doesn't mean it's time to stop thinking about your lawn. In fact, one of the biggest fall lawn mistakes is waiting until weeds are everywhere before doing something about them. Here in Louisiana, fall is an important time to start thinking ahead. While your warm-season grass begins slowing down, cool-season weeds are getting ready to make themselves at home. Taking action now can save you a lot of frustration later. Why Are We Talking About Weeds Before You See Them? Because that's the point! Many of the weeds that become noticeable during the cooler months begin from seeds already sitting in your soil. Once conditions are right, those seeds germinate and suddenly those little weeds seem to be everywhere. That's why pre-emergent weed control can be such an important part of a fall lawn-care routine. Instead of waiting for weeds to appear and then trying to kill them, a properly timed pre-emergent helps prevent many weed seeds from successfully establishing in the first place. Think of it as getting ahead of the problem instead of chasing it all winter. Timing Matters One of the most common questions we hear is: "When should I put down pre-emergent?" The answer isn't simply a specific date on the calendar. Soil temperatures and weather conditions matter, which is especially important in Louisiana where "fall" doesn't always feel very much like fall! Applying too early or too late can affect how well your weed-control program works. That's why it's a good idea to pay attention to local conditions and make sure you're choosing the right product for your particular lawn. Don't Wait Until Your Lawn Is Covered in Weeds Once weeds have already germinated and started growing, a pre-emergent isn't designed to make those existing weeds disappear. At that point, you may need a different approach. That's why identifying what is currently happening in your lawn is so important. Pre-emergent and post-emergent products serve different purposes , and using the wrong one can leave you wondering why your weeds aren't going away. If you aren't sure what you're looking at, take a picture and bring it to us! Know Your Grass Before You Treat It Before applying any lawn product, make sure it is labeled for your type of turfgrass. Different lawns have different needs, and not every weed-control product is appropriate for every grass variety. Always read and follow the product label, including application rates, watering instructions, and turf restrictions. Not sure what kind of grass you have? That's exactly the kind of question we're here to help with. A Little Work Now Can Mean Fewer Weeds Later It's tempting to forget about the lawn once summer ends, but fall lawn care can make a major difference in what you're dealing with during winter and early spring. Your fall checklist can be as simple as: Identify your turfgrass. Look for existing weeds and lawn problems. Choose an appropriate fall weed-control strategy. Apply products according to their labels. Continue monitoring your lawn as temperatures change. The goal isn't to wait until there's a problem—it's to get ahead of it. Have a Lawn Question? Bring It to All Seasons! Not sure which product you need? Can't identify a weed? Wondering whether it's the right time to treat your lawn? Come see us at All Seasons Nursery & Landscaping in Lafayette . Bring us a photo of your lawn or the weed you're fighting, and our team can help you determine your next step and find a product appropriate for your lawn. Don't wait for the weeds to take over. A little fall preparation now can make maintaining your lawn much easier later!

Fall Rose Care in Louisiana: How to Keep Your Roses Healthy & Blooming Fall is one of the best seasons for roses in Louisiana. After making it through the intense heat and humidity of summer, cooler temperatures can encourage healthier foliage, richer flower color, and another beautiful flush of blooms. Whether you're growing Knock Out Roses, Drift Roses, hybrid teas, or another favorite variety, a little attention now can help your roses finish the growing season strong. 1. Give Your Roses a Late-Summer Cleanup By August, roses can look a little tired from Louisiana's summer heat. Start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased growth and cleaning fallen leaves and debris from around the base of the plant. For roses that benefit from pruning, late August into early September is a good time for a light trim to encourage fresh growth and fall flowers. Avoid extremely heavy pruning, and don't continue pruning late into fall. As colder weather approaches, new tender growth is more susceptible to frost and freeze damage. Deadheading spent blooms can also help repeat-blooming roses put their energy toward new growth and flowers instead of seed production. 2. Keep an Eye Out for Fall Rose Problems Louisiana's warmth and humidity can create ideal conditions for both insects and fungal diseases. Regularly check your roses—especially the undersides of leaves and tender new growth—for signs of trouble. Common problems to watch for include: Aphids Spider mites Thrips Whiteflies Black spot Powdery mildew Rust Catching problems early makes them much easier to manage. 3. Our Rose-Care Pick: BioAdvanced 3-in-1 If you're looking for an easy way to simplify your rose-care routine, BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control is a great product to have on hand. It provides three types of protection in one product: insect control, disease control, and spider mite control . According to BioAdvanced, it controls listed pests including aphids, thrips, whiteflies, Japanese beetles, and spider mites while also treating common rose diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew, and rust. It's labeled for use during spring, summer, and fall. That makes it especially useful during the transition into fall, when you may be dealing with lingering summer pests while also trying to protect fresh foliage from disease. Garden Tip: Always read and follow the product label before applying any pesticide, including directions for application rates, timing, plant restrictions, and precautions. 4. Don't Forget About Feeding Roses use a lot of energy producing their fall flush of flowers. In South Louisiana, late summer into early fall is an important window for fertilization, but timing matters. The University of Louisiana at Lafayette's Ira Nelson Horticulture Center recommends making the final rose fertilizer application by late September and keeping it light. Too much fertilizer late in the season can encourage tender new growth just as temperatures begin to drop. BioAdvanced also offers an All-In-One Rose & Flower Care formula that combines fertilizer with insect and disease protection. Its fertilizer analysis is 9-14-9 and it's designed to promote strong roots and blooms while protecting against listed pests and diseases. 5. Water at the Base Even when temperatures cool down, roses still need consistent moisture. Water deeply at the base of the plant rather than frequently giving it small amounts of water. Whenever possible, avoid repeatedly wetting the foliage. Keeping leaves dry can help reduce conditions that favor fungal diseases. Check the soil before watering rather than automatically watering on a schedule. Louisiana weather can change quickly in fall, and roses may need significantly less supplemental water after periods of rain. 6. Refresh Your Mulch A fresh layer of mulch is one of the simplest things you can do for your roses heading into fall and winter. Mulch helps: Retain soil moisture Moderate soil temperatures Suppress weeds Protect the root zone as temperatures fluctuate Keep mulch a few inches away from the rose's main stems rather than piling it directly against the plant. 7. Know When to Stop As we get later into fall, the goal changes from encouraging new blooms to preparing the plant for winter. Once colder weather approaches, put away the fertilizer and pruners. Pruning and fertilizing too late can stimulate tender new growth that may be damaged by freezing temperatures. We recommend waiting until late winter for more substantial pruning. At that point, simply keep your roses watered, when necessary, maintain your mulch, remove diseased debris, and enjoy the last flowers of the season. Set Your Roses Up for a Beautiful Fall Don't count your roses out after a long Louisiana summer! With a little cleanup, proper watering, timely feeding, and protection from common insects and diseases, fall can bring some of the most beautiful rose blooms of the year. Stop by All Seasons Nursery & Landscaping for your fall rose-care essentials, including BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control , and let our team help you give your roses what they need for a strong finish to the growing season. Healthy roses now can mean stronger plants, gorgeous fall color, and a better start when spring rolls around again.

As we ride out this last stretch of summer, it’s time to start looking forward to fall gardening weather. Here is a list of what to do in the garden and landscape into September. Watering: Help struggling plants survive drought stress by watering them early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler. This reduces water loss due to evaporation and allows the plants to absorb water more effectively. Be sure to water deeply at the base of the plant. This encourages plants to develop deep root systems, making them more resilient to drought. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the soil at the base of the plants. This minimizes evaporation and helps prevent wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases. Establish a watering schedule to keep track during extended drought periods. Lastly, avoid fertilizing during periods of drought and heat stress, as this can increase water demand and stress the plants even further. Rose care: This is the time of year we typically recommend trimming ever-blooming roses by a third for new blooms in October and November. Pruning plants during a drought requires a more cautious approach. Pruning can have both positive and negative effects on plants during drought conditions, so it's important to assess the situation carefully. Pruning during drought can help reduce the water demand of the plant by decreasing the overall foliage and transpiration rate. Removing dead, damaged and nonessential growth allows the plant to allocate its limited resources more efficiently to the parts that matter most for its survival. But pruning during a drought period can also exacerbate the stress plants are experiencing due to water scarcity. Pruning can temporarily slow down growth and recovery. Some guidelines for pruning during drought conditions are to limit pruning to essential tasks such as removing dead, diseased and damaged canes. Avoid heavy pruning or shaping cuts that can lead to significant water loss through wounds. If you decide to prune, do so early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler to minimize stress on the plant. Keep a close eye on the pruned plants and be sure to water them appropriately. Newly pruned plants may require extra attention and care to recover. After removing canes from your roses, disinfect pruners to prevent disease spread. When removing diseased material, rinse your pruners in a 10% bleach solution and then in water before making any new cuts. This will help prevent the transfer of disease to other parts of the plant or other plants in the garden. Do not prune once-blooming roses, as you may reduce the blooms for next year. You may remove any dead or diseased canes, however. Hold off fertilizing until temperatures and rain become more consistent. Fungal disease prevention: Spray roses for blackspot and powdery mildew using appropriate fungicides. You may choose to use triforine, thiophanate methyl or copper oleate. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully. Rake up and remove all fallen leaves to prevent further infection of rose bushes and dispose of them in the trash. Do not compost infected plant material. Bed maintenance: Trim and stake tall plants and deadhead annuals, perennials and vines. Remove tired plants and think about replacements for cooler weather. Start selecting cool-season annuals and perennials for the landscape. This is also a great time to start thinking about what trees and shrubs to plant in the fall. Lawn care: Watch for chinch bug damage, treating with insecticides if necessary. Fire ants are a problem on the lawn as well. Treat with granular baits if needed.  Transplanting and vegetables: You can transfer fall tomato plants. Be sure to monitor for pests and diseases. You’ll be able to replace spent summer crops with broccoli, cabbage, kale and more in the upcoming months. Consider keeping productive spring plants like eggplants and peppers. Complete these tasks to ensure your garden thrives into the fall and remains resilient against drought and heat and the threat of hurricanes.

There’s no need to completely rework your summer containers to give them fall flair. Instead, here’s some ideas for updating existing container gardens (or, if you’re inspired, potting up new ones), including one plant to add for instant drama, and a zero-effort, lazy-gardener’s trick for covering a bare spot. 1. Add bold foliage plants. Swap tired warm-season flowers for richly colored foliage plants, leaving mature evergreens and long-lasting perennials in place. Add height to the design, with brightly colored foliage plants providing seasonal interest. Plants you may have in your container, like coleus and sweet potato vine, that are not winter-hardy, could be traded for dianthus and petunias moving into the holidays. 2. Tuck in cool-season flowers. After removing summer annuals past their prime, fill in the gaps with cool-season bloomers in fall colors. Although they may look tender and delicate, pansies are actually some of the most cold-tolerant annual flowers. We advise waiting until the nighttime temperatures stay consistently in the 60s for planting pansies. For a rich autumn color palette, choose pansies in vibrant hues like orange, gold, red and deep purple or bicolored combinations, avoiding pastel pinks, blues and pale yellows. Combine them with coral bells, another cool-season favorite, for a long-lasting display.  3. Plant an ornamental grass for instant drama. To give some serious pizazz to existing container gardens by adding just one plant, reach for Purple Fountain Grass. The dramatic ornamental grass can reach 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide (although usually smaller in containers) with a vase-like shape topped with fuzzy purple seed heads. 4. Play up texture. Consider adding one or more textural ingredients like plants with berries, twiggy branches, grassy leaves or broad foliage. Even easier: Add texture without planting by sticking dried curly willow branches or ornamental seedpods from floral displays into the pot. 5. Pop in late-blooming perennials. We have plenty of late-summer and fall-blooming perennials. Just adding a few coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, or chrysanthemums can transform existing container displays. The flowers will add color through fall and come back in spring for another bloom period. 6. Incorporate dark foliage. Deepen existing container designs with the addition of one or more cool-tolerant, dark-leaved plants, like an ornamental pepper Black Olive variety. 7. Cover a bare patch with a pumpkin. It’s a great gardener’s hack! If you’ve pulled out some tired-looking summer annuals but don’t have the time to hunt down a replacement plant, plunk a pumpkin down to cover the bare spot. 8. Reshuffle your container layout. Sometimes all containers need is a regrouping, rather than a replanting, for a fresh perspective. Take stock of all your potted plants and see which ones could work together as part of a fall container vignette. Do you have ornamental grasses in one pot that complement the leaf tones of a plant in a container across the yard? If the light requirements of the plants match, move the containers together as a combination. 9. Change the underplanting. Update the look of containers with shrubs, small trees or mature vines without any major repotting by changing any low-growing plants beneath them.

In mid-August, the Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds are back in our area for their fall migration! Since you can expect to see increasing numbers of them, stock your feeders and yard with plants to attract & fuel them for their long journey south! The Ruby-Throated Hummingbird, the East Coast’s most common hummingbird, is certainly one of the most fantastic creatures in Gulf Coast gardens. These garden jewels will stay with us until they begin to migrate further South, usually in mid-October. To understand why we see so many hummingbirds in spring and fall, and very few or none in summer or winter, let’s learn a little bit about these fascinating friends. Considered the acrobats of the natural world, hummingbirds are an endless source of amazement. Not requiring forward thrust to maintain flight, the peerless hummingbird can hover in place, perform somersaults, or even fly backwards and upside down! Their behavior is also quite spirited. Hummingbirds are extremely active, territorial, and even aggressive, behaving much like tiny little warriors, competing for the best food and shelter. And all this from the smallest feathered animals on earth. The metabolism of a hummingbird is extraordinary. Their hearts beat a staggering 1,200 times per minute, whereas in full flight – up to 50 mph – their wings may beat as many as 200 times per second! You can clearly hear a hummingbird in flight, oftentimes before you ever see it. This astounding capability helps to explain their diminutive size – a larger bird would never be able to power such thrust. They hold virtually every record on being tiny, from lightest bodyweight to shortest beak-to-tail length to lightest eggs, all in support of that Olympian speed and endurance. It is a wonder that such tiny things can explode with such energy, but there is at least an easy answer as to how that’s possible – hummingbirds are voracious eaters. They are so territorial over food resources because their very lives depend on a steady intake of calories to maintain that movement. Seeds are simply too heavy and slowly digested to do the hummingbird any good. Hummingbirds will feed up to ten times per hour on straight sugar – in the form of plant nectar, of course – just to keep themselves in the air. Insects & spiders are also an important source of protein and minerals. The plant in turn gets pollinated by the hummingbird, so the act of feeding is mutually beneficial, and is one of the most fascinating relationships in nature. The showy petals exist exclusively to attract insects and birds to the plants; otherwise we would not have any beautiful flowers at all. Hummingbirds are so dependent on a steady diet of nectar that they are particularly attuned to the seasons. The places on earth that provide a food source year round are few, so they migrate vast distances (4,000 miles for the west-coast Rufous Hummingbird) to follow the sequential spring and fall bloom of plants, from tropical Central America all the way up to Canada and back. They cannot afford for a plant to stop blooming before moving on to find more food, so they probably use the duration of daylight to determine when it is time to start moving south. Their lean build comes at the expense of sparse reserves of fat. It is impossible for hummingbirds to endure times without a food source. Another hardship of the hummingbird is that its short, stout wings are not made for gliding flight. They flap their wings for every inch of the 25 or so miles per day they may travel. In fall, many Ruby Throats congregate along the Gulf Coast to store up enough energy for one final burst across the Gulf of Mexico or across arid portions of Mexico before reaching the rainforests of the equatorial zone. When we have mild winters, it is becoming more and more common for some hummers to stay along the coast instead of braving ahead to Mexico, including some western species we would not otherwise see! Winter sightings in Louisiana have included the Rufous, Black-Chinned, Buff-Bellied, Calliope, and Allen’s and Anna’s hummingbirds. So, what can we do to get more hummers in our yard every year? The main ways to attract them to your garden/landscape are to accommodate them with food and water. Of course, hummingbird plants are a must! The aptly named Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) hits a peak bloom in the fall, but any variety of Salvia will be a hummingbird favorite. A number of other tubular blooms are great nectar plants for hummingbirds, from Porterweed to Cigar Plant to Mexican Fire Bush to Cat’s Whiskers. Bottlebrush is a shrub that blooms in spring and fall and is another favorite. If you have a large area for a big, woody vine, Trumpet Creeper is an absolute hummingbird magnet! See an associate at the Garden Center for a more planting ideas! Of course, hummingbird feeders provide an easily maintained source of nectar – stir 1 part white sugar into 4 parts hot water, and always let it cool before filling your feeder. Don’t want to make it yourself? We sell already made, pour and go nectar! Always keep hummingbird feeders clean and free of mildew with a pipe cleaner. Hummingbirds, with their high metabolism, also like a place to perch nearby for frequent breaks. Small trees or large hedges are ideal, but a metal or wooden perch can be hung on a shepherd’s hook, as well. Bird baths should be kept clean and full for hummingbirds and other migratory birds, especially at this time. Last but not least – please do not spray your hummingbird plants with chemicals or systemic insecticides. If insecticides are needed, use horticultural oils or insecticidal soap!  An amazing fact is that a hummingbird that feeds in your yard one year will return to that food source every year! So, if you’ve seen them in your yard before, make sure to keep up your supply for them. If you don’t get as many or any, come over and let us help you change that for this season! If you use nectar, it’s important to always keep it clean and fresh. Hummingbirds stay clear of fermented nectar, which supports deadly mold growth. Feeders should be cleaned twice once a week in our hot weather. This prevents harmful microorganisms from forming. Summer Plants to Attract Hummingbirds Want to appeal to hummingbirds? Consider these flowers they love to visit during their fall migration: For further growing information on each one, come visit us! We’d love to tell you all about these, and send them home with you! Bee Balm Bottlebrush Butterfly Bush Canna Lily Cardinal Flower Cleome Cigar Plant Compact Fire Bush Pentas Lantana Daylilies Flowering Tobacco Impatiens Porterweed Salvia Verbena Hummingbird Fun Facts: During their migrations, they fly 500 miles nonstop over the Gulf of Mexico! To make that journey, they need to weigh 1.5x their usual weight. Bring on the nectar! Flying speeds can reach up to 60mph! They can fly forward, backward, up, down, upside down briefly, and even sideways! However, flying is their only mode of transport- they cannot walk. Hummingbirds beat their wings 78 times per second! When diving, it more than triples to 200 times per second! Their heart beat 1,260 times and they take about 250 breaths per minute. Their tongues can reach out over 2-3’’! Perfect for trumpet-shaped flowers! They live an average of 3-5 years. For more migration information, visit: https://www.hummingbirdcentral.com/hummingbird-migration.htm Come see us to stock up on everything you’ll need to supply our quick-winged friends for their journey! Good luck viewing hummingbirds in your own back yard!

Want to appeal to hummingbirds? Consider these flowers they love to visit. Little John Bottlebrush Hummingbirds love these red “bottle-brush-“ shaped blooms that pop out at the perfect time hummingbirds are fluttering fast through Acadiana. These are hardy evergreen dwarf shrubs that go great in any landscape. The “Hannah Ray” tree-form variety is a wispy focal point. Bee Balm Bee balm's blooms appear in mid to late summer, and can even remain into the fall. The striking flowers come in white, pink, red or purple, and complement the dark, aromatic foliage. This perennial is susceptible to powdery mildew, so plant in full sun to part shade and select resistant varieties. Bee balm likes medium to wet soil and works well in a wildlife garden. Bee balm is attractive to bees, but this bergamot is equally attractive to hummingbirds. Butterfly Bush Buddleia davidii attracts butterflies with its blooms of lavender, pink, white, purple, red or yellow. These blooms can appear beginning in early spring and continue until first frost. In full sun, butterfly bush can grow up to 10 feet tall. Butterfly bush is an aggressive grower, and removing spent blooms will encourage more attractive, fragrant flowers for a long period. Grow in massed plantings in cottage gardens and butterfly gardens, and use in border plantings. Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis features reddish purple stems, bronzy leaves and scarlet flowers. A perennial, it can reach four feet tall and spread up to 36 inches wide. Cardinal flower appreciates full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Consider growing in a container in a wetlands setting, and water this plant often. Cardinal flower blooms beginning in mid summer through the first frost. Cigar Plant Cigar plant is slow to take off in spring, but by the time hummers arrive in fall, they are in full bloom! Many varieties are available, but the name comes from the orange variety with a purple-black tip on the tubular bloom, resembling a smoldering cigar. Pink and yellow varieties are also common. A related plant, the Bat-Face Cuphea, makes bright red blooms with two purple wings that resemble a bat’s ears. Hummers love them all equally. Delphinium Hummingbirds love delphinium, which blooms in early summer. Height for these perennials can average anywhere from 2 to 8 feet tall, depending on variety. Delphinium requires rich soil, and areas with relatively cool summers. ‘Diamonds Blue’ is a variety bred for the heat that will tolerate our weather much better. Foxglove If you’re thinking about adding a cottage-garden look, you may want to consider foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), which may extend up to 6 feet when in bloom, depending on the variety and growing conditions. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and full sun to medium shade. Its blossoms — in purple, pink, yellow and white — attract hummingbirds. Please note that all parts of the plant are poisonous to people, pets and livestock. Foxglove is considered invasive along the West Coast and in some parts of New England. Mexican Fire Bush This subshrub or perennial plant produces loads of orange tubular blooms that are a delight to hummingbirds. It will flower best in uninterrupted full sun, and doesn’t mind being a little dry. Flower time is from early summer all through fall. Though a variegated variety, ‘Lime Sizzler’ adds a wonderful chartreuse splash to tropical gardens, the old-fashioned standard will produce the most flowers. Porterweed Though each flower is very tiny and dainty, they are borne on long flowering stems, so plants are typically loaded with little purple flowers that hummers love. Porterweed is semi-tropical, and might not survive a sudden, hard freeze. Keep it in a pot that can be brought in on cold nights, or replant in spring. Though they are typically purple, red or coral varieties are also available. Salvia All salvia species are characterized by vertical spikes of vibrant flowers that can be found in hues of blue, red, pink or violet. Bloom time varies according to variety, and their flowers are a welcome sight for hummingbirds. Salvia microphylla 'Hot Lips' is an erect, clump forming perennial salvia that is noted for its compact form, long bloom period, purple stems and red and white flowers. Yarrow Varieties of the tough summer-blooming yarrow come in yellow, white, orange, red, pink and coral. Butterflies and hummingbirds enjoy its blooms, which start early in the season and can last into mid fall, depending on the species and variety. Yarrow grows best in well-drained, average to poor soil, and can reach up to 48 inches. Trumpet Vine A beautiful climber for any structure, this vine blooms trumpet-shaped coral flowers that are also known as “hummingbird vine” since they love it! The foliage is dense and evergreen, and it loves full sun to part shade. Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

How Often Should I Water My Plants During Louisiana Summer? Louisiana summers are known for intense heat, high humidity, and long stretches of sunshine. While our landscapes are filled with plants that love warm weather, even the toughest plants can become stressed when temperatures climb into the 90s. One of the most common questions we hear at All Seasons is: “How often should I water my plants during the summer?” The answer depends on the type of plant, soil, location, and weather conditions—but with the right watering habits, you can keep your garden healthy and thriving all summer long. The Best Time to Water Your Plants in Louisiana The best time to water is early in the morning, between 5 AM and 9 AM. Morning watering allows plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day arrives and gives leaves time to dry, which helps reduce the risk of fungal problems. If morning watering is not possible, water in the late afternoon or early evening . Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day because much of the water can evaporate before reaching the roots. How Often Should You Water? There is no one-size-fits-all watering schedule, but these guidelines work well for many Louisiana gardens. Newly Planted Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees New plants need consistent moisture while their roots become established. Water: Every day or every other day for the first 1–2 weeks Slowly transition to deeper, less frequent watering as roots grow A deep watering encourages roots to grow downward, creating stronger and more drought-resistant plants. Annual Flowers and Hanging Baskets Annual flowers such as vinca, pentas, begonias, and tropical plants often need more frequent watering during Louisiana heat. Water: Flower beds: About 2–4 times per week depending on rainfall Containers and hanging baskets: Often daily during extreme heat Containers dry out much faster because they have limited soil volume. Tip: If your hanging basket looks wilted in the afternoon, check the soil before watering. Some plants naturally droop during extreme heat but recover in the evening. Shrubs and Landscape Plants Established shrubs generally need less frequent watering than flowers. Water: 1–2 deep waterings per week during hot, dry periods Examples: Gardenias Loropetalum Hydrangeas Azaleas Camellias Water slowly at the base of the plant so moisture reaches the root zone. Trees Trees need deep watering to encourage strong root systems. Water: Newly planted trees: 2–3 times per week during summer Established trees: Deep watering during extended dry periods A slow soak is much better than frequent shallow watering. Signs Your Plants Need More Water Your plants may be thirsty if you notice: 💧 Wilting leaves 💧 Drooping flowers 💧 Leaves turning brown around the edges 💧 Dry, cracked soil pulling away from the container 💧 Slow growth 💧 Newly planted plants looking stressed Remember: wilting does not always mean a plant needs water. During extreme heat, some plants temporarily wilt to protect themselves. Check the soil moisture before watering. Signs You May Be Overwatering Too much water can be just as harmful as too little. Look for: 🌿 Yellowing leaves 🌿 Mushy or soft roots 🌿 Fungus or mold on soil 🌿 Leaves dropping even though soil is wet 🌿 Poor growth Plants need oxygen around their roots, and constantly wet soil can prevent roots from functioning properly. Mulch Helps Your Plants Survive Louisiana Heat One of the easiest ways to reduce watering needs is adding mulch around your plants. A 2–3 inch layer of mulch helps: ✔ Keep soil cooler ✔ Hold in moisture ✔ Reduce weeds ✔ Protect plant roots from temperature changes Avoid piling mulch directly against tree trunks or plant stems, as this can cause problems over time. Watering Tips for Louisiana Summer Gardens 🌿 Water deeply instead of frequently A quick sprinkle only wets the top layer of soil. Deep watering encourages stronger roots. 🌿 Check your soil before watering Stick your finger 1–2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. 🌿 Pay attention to containers Potted plants may need daily watering during extreme heat. 🌿 Adjust after rainfall Louisiana thunderstorms can provide plenty of water, but heavy rain does not always soak deeply into the root zone. 🌿 Group plants with similar needs together Plants that need frequent watering should not be mixed with drought-tolerant plants. Keep Your Louisiana Garden Thriving All Summer Summer heat can be challenging, but with proper watering habits, your plants can continue looking beautiful through August and beyond. The key is consistency, deep watering, and paying attention to what your plants are telling you. At All Seasons, we’re here to help you choose the right plants, soil, and products to make your Louisiana landscape successful—even during the hottest months of the year. Stop by All Seasons for expert advice and everything you need to keep your garden growing strong all summer long!

Summer Hydrangea Care Guide Keep your hydrangeas thriving through the Louisiana heat - Hydrangea may look delicate, but with the right care they can stay lush and beautiful all summer—even in intense heat. 1. Water Deeply Hydrangeas are thirsty plants, especially in summer. Water deeply 2–4 times per week (more during heat waves) Aim for 1–2 inches of water weekly Water at the base , not over the leaves Best time: early morning Wilting in the afternoon? That can be normal in extreme heat. If they’re still wilted by morning, they need water. 2. Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade In Louisiana, too much harsh afternoon sun can scorch leaves and blooms. Ideal placement: ✅ Morning sun ✅ Bright filtered light ✅ Afternoon shade Watch for: Brown crispy edges Faded blooms Drooping leaves Those usually mean too much sun or not enough water . 3. Mulch Is Your Best Friend Add 2–3 inches of mulch around the base. Mulch helps: Hold moisture Keep roots cool Reduce weeds Keep mulch a few inches away from the stems. 4. Deadhead Spent Blooms Snip off faded flowers to keep plants tidy and encourage energy toward healthy growth. Cut just above a healthy set of leaves. 5. Fertilize Lightly Too much fertilizer = big leaves, fewer blooms. Use a slow-release flowering shrub fertilizer in early summer if needed. Avoid heavy fertilizing in extreme heat. 6. Don’t Panic Over Leaf Spots Humidity can cause fungal issues. Common summer problems: Leaf spots Powdery mildew Yellowing leaves Help prevent this by: Improving airflow Avoiding overhead watering Removing damaged leaves 7. Protect New Plantings Recently planted hydrangeas need extra attention. New plants may need: More frequent watering Temporary shade cloth Extra mulch They’re more vulnerable than established shrubs. Quick Hydrangea SOS Droopy? → Needs water or shade Brown edges? → Too much sun No blooms? → Wrong pruning or too much fertilizer Yellow leaves? → Water stress or drainage issues