10 Easy Fall Plants to Add in your Garden (and Why)

Nothing tastes better than homegrown fruits and vegetables. The whole process, from planting the tree, to harvesting the fruit. It is so rewarding. You literally get to eat the fruits of your own labor! Maybe you haven’t tried growing different fruiting trees or shrubs, but did you know that right here in South Louisiana we can grow all different kinds of citrus, figs, peaches, plums, pears, blueberries and more!? When planning out your own home orchard, consider the following factors: Site: The more sun, the better. Fruiting plants need a lot of sunshine to produce the most fruits. Also high on the list, drainage. Make sure that the location where you choose to plant your plants does not hold a lot of water. Your fruit trees will not like to have wet roots. And some trees, like peach trees, are already very susceptible to fungus. Soil: Make sure that you add a generous amount of healthy, rich, gardening soil. Not top soil, gardening soil. Blueberries are VERY particular about their soil. The soil needs to be acidic, rich with organic matter, and they need a heavy application of mulch around the base. Selection: Making the right selection of plants for your orchard is very important. You will want to choose varieties that have proven performance for our area; taking into consideration the heat, humidity, rainfall, and something we call “Chilling Hours.” The term Chilling Hours refers to the amount of hours that the temperature is below 45 Degrees Fahrenheit through the winter season. So if a tree says that it requires 200 Chilling Hours, than in order for it to produce fruit, it must be less than 45 degrees for over 200 hours. If you blindly choose a fruiting plant, and know nothing about the number of chilling hours that it requires to bear fruit, than you may have just planted a tree that will never bear fruit. Additionally, in the “Selection” category, make sure that you are aware if the plants that you choose require an additional pollinator. Citrus trees are self-pollinating. This means that you can simply plant one citrus tree and have citrus fruit. However; most varieties of plums, peaches, apples and blueberries will require you to plant two different cultivars in order to have successful fruit production. This may seem like a lot of things to consider when thinking about planting some fruiting plants for yourself, but trust us, the rewards will be worth the work! There is nothing like picking an apple or peach right off of the tree, or a blueberry or blackberry right off of the shrub or vine- and eating it!  We are always here to help you with all these factors to select the right plant in the right area and to ultimately put the "fruit of your labor" on your plate!

Assess the Damage A flower garden can tell you a lot at the end of the growing season. You'll want to assess the results of all your spring and summer work, and prepare the garden for next spring. First, take a walk around your garden and look at how all the plants did over the summer. Track successes and failures of individual plants. Identify which plants have outgrown their space and need to be divided. Add Mulch Determine which bare areas could use soil amendment and new plants. Add mulch where necessary. Check for Diseases Check the overall health of plants — look for diseases and damage. Replace Old with New Replace summer annuals in containers and garden beds with cool-weather flowers. Prepare You'll want to weed, deadhead faded blooms, divide overgrown plants, dig up non-hardy bulbs for winter storage, remove spent annuals, amend soil and add needed mulch. Replace ties with jute twine. Natural fibers make the best ties because they're more flexible. They'll break down over time, but at that point, it will be time to retie the plants anyway. Amend soil where there are bare spots or where you've removed annuals. Add compost and peat moss to replace nutrients lost during summer growth and to better prepare the soils for spring planting. Turn the amendments into the soil with a garden fork to distribute it evenly. Brush off any mulch that's sitting on branches of shrubs because it can cause leaves and needles to yellow. Preparing the Lawn Fall is a good time to do some minor maintenance in the lawn. Raking up old dead grass (thatching) helps the grass put out new runners for a more lush lawn. Fall is the time for fungus, so a systemic fungicide at this time can help us get ahead of fungus issues. Spreading a pre-emergent herbicide (such as dimension or preen) in the lawn can help us prevent cool season weeds before they start. If you have any established weedy patches, now is also the time to take care of those. Using Weed Free Zone (2-4d) will take care of established weeds in the lawn. Rose Care September is a great time to cut back roses in South Louisiana. Trim back about 25% of the bush and remove canes that are crossing each other to promote better air flow. Fertilize with an organic fertilizer to have another fall show of flowers before winter. Clematis Care Cut the vine back to the ground. New shoots will form from the base next spring. Remove All Annuals from the Garden Remove all annuals from the garden. You can save seeds from most annuals and plant them next year. Zinnias are an easy plant to collect seeds from and to grow from seed. For window boxes, simply remove summer annuals, add more potting mix and plant cool-weather bloomers like ornamental kale and pansies. Disinfect Pruners Disinfect pruners before using them on other plants as you remove spent blooms and foliage throughout the garden. Compost Bin Don't put any diseased plants into your compost pile. Perennial Border Dividing perennials reinvigorates plants and gives you new plants to add to other areas of your garden or to share with neighbors and friends. Ready Your Container Plants Believe it or not, the most overlooked group of plants this time of year is container plants, and there are plenty of things to consider with respect to their care. Annual Container By definition, these plants only last a year, but there are ways to extend their lives. You can, for example, take cuttings of various annuals and root the in either water or a potting medium such as vermiculite, perlite or soil-less potting mix.Just remember to strip all but the top few leaves off the stem, keep the potting medium moist at all times and keep plants out of direct sunlight. Within a few weeks the plants should develop a dense mass of roots, at which point you can pot them up and grow them as houseplants. This doesn't work with all annuals, but it's fun to experiment. Tropical Container Many tropicals, including palms and bananas, make excellent houseplants throughout the winter months. A good move now is to make room for all your tropical plants indoors, because this is also the time of year when sudden drops in temperature can come seemingly out of nowhere. Woody tropicals such as plumeria and citrus can easily be overwintered indoors - or in the garage, as long as the temperature doesn't drop below freezing. Transplanting Perennials Consider transplanting perennials from their containers directly into the garden. Carefully remove them from their pots, trim their roots a bit to stimulate the growth of new feeder roots, stick them in the ground and trim their top growth a little. Herb Container They tend to look pretty shabby toward the end of summer, so either harvest and dry them or consider moving them indoors. Generally, though, herbs don't do very well inside unless they get a lot of natural or fluorescent light. (The same goes for most succulents, though cacti seem to fair best among them.) We have Grow Lights specially formulated for indoor plants! These bulbs fit into any standard light socket! Keep the Birds Coming When you invite birds into your yard by feeding them, they do a fantastic job of keeping the insect population in check, which means you don't have to spray or dust as often to control pests.  Don't Forget the Shed! Take time to clean your garden storage area, tossing old chemicals — responsibly of course — and taking note of what you'll need to replenish before next spring.A number of gardening products have a shelf life and may lose their effectiveness over time or if they get too hot or too cold. That's particularly true of botanical insecticides such as Bt and beneficial fungi.And of course you should tend to your tools. Rub metal tool surfaces with a light coating or oil; rub wooden tool handles with boiled linseed oil; and sharpen everything that needs it with a proper file.

Fall is upon us, so it's time to add those new plants to your landscape! You may think spring is the best time of the year for planting, but it is NOW! By planting in the fall, it takes advantage of the amazing opportunity to get plants established. The first priority after planting is root growth. This occurs best during the fall and winters in Louisiana when shoots and flowers grow slowly. In Louisiana, trees can be planted until the second week in January. There are several excellent LSU Ag Center recommendations, Louisiana Super Plants, like Shoal Creek vitex, sweetbay magnolia, willow oak & southern sugar maple. These are some of our favorites, too! Shrubs, roses and flowering perennials also do great when planted now. Shrubs are the "bones" of a landscape. There are many selections to plant now, and by following proper planting procedures and care will lead to success. Popular shrubs for our area are: azaleas; camellias; hydrangeas; Indian hawthorns; loropetalums; viburnum; cleyera; gardenia; and more! A well planned landscape most often contains both deciduous and evergreen plants. Using both types help to accent seasonal changes. A landscape can be refreshed by using a variety of plants! Contrast with texture and color. From the ground up: Soil preparation for fall planting · When planting in containers, choose a good quality potting soil or container mix. Some may have a slow release fertilizer in them. · When planting in established beds, refresh soil with compost, bed builder, soil conditioner, etc. · When starting new flower beds or vegetable beds, start with bed builder, add compost, peat moss, and slow release fertilizers like manure, bone & blood meal, cottonseed meal, kelp meal or Osmocote. · When planting single trees or shrubs, mix soil taken from the planting hole and mix in compost. Plant tree/shrub on a mound; use soil/compost underneath the root ball and around it. Mulch well. · Always mulch your plants well. It will help with moister retention, soil temperature fluctuations (keeps soil temperatures cooler in summer/warmer in winter) and controls weeds. Caring for plants in the fall · Insect and disease problems are minimal in fall and winter. · A few things to watch for are: Cabbage worms on fall veggies; scale insects on hollies, camellias and citrus trees. · On vegetables use bacillus thuringiensis or spinosad. · Scale insects can be controlled with horticultural oil sprays. Some favorite plants for fall · Early fall color: crotons; mums; ornamental peppers; ornamental cabbage & kale; marigolds; petunias; Swiss chard; red mustard; lobelia; calendulas; gaillardia · Fall & winter color: pansies; violas; snapdragons; petunias; alyssum; calendulus ; leaf plants like ornamental cabbage & kale; colorful lettuces; chard · Perennial color for fall: perennial salvias; hamelia (Fire bush); gaillardia; buddleia; firespike; lantana; rudbeckia · Fall & winter vegetables: cabbage; broccoli; cauliflower; Brussel sprouts; radish; carrot; turnip; spinach; lettuce; beets; chard; arugula; endive; celery · Cool season herbs: parsley; cilantro; dill; fennel; rosemary; thyme; mint; cutting celery · Fruit trees/shrubs: apple; peach; pear; plum; fig; pomegranate; persimmon; mayhaw; blueberry; citrus · Fruiting vines: grapes; muscadines; blackberry; raspberries · Cold hardy trees/shrubs: maples; oaks; birch; holly; azalea; camellia, etc. Did you know we offer FREE consultations "tes for landscaping & landscaping maintenance? We want you to fall in love with a new landscape or your existing landscape cleaned up and ready for the seasons!

Stop Fall Weeds Before They Take Over Your Louisiana Lawn The weather may be cooling down, but that doesn't mean it's time to stop thinking about your lawn. In fact, one of the biggest fall lawn mistakes is waiting until weeds are everywhere before doing something about them. Here in Louisiana, fall is an important time to start thinking ahead. While your warm-season grass begins slowing down, cool-season weeds are getting ready to make themselves at home. Taking action now can save you a lot of frustration later. Why Are We Talking About Weeds Before You See Them? Because that's the point! Many of the weeds that become noticeable during the cooler months begin from seeds already sitting in your soil. Once conditions are right, those seeds germinate and suddenly those little weeds seem to be everywhere. That's why pre-emergent weed control can be such an important part of a fall lawn-care routine. Instead of waiting for weeds to appear and then trying to kill them, a properly timed pre-emergent helps prevent many weed seeds from successfully establishing in the first place. Think of it as getting ahead of the problem instead of chasing it all winter. Timing Matters One of the most common questions we hear is: "When should I put down pre-emergent?" The answer isn't simply a specific date on the calendar. Soil temperatures and weather conditions matter, which is especially important in Louisiana where "fall" doesn't always feel very much like fall! Applying too early or too late can affect how well your weed-control program works. That's why it's a good idea to pay attention to local conditions and make sure you're choosing the right product for your particular lawn. Don't Wait Until Your Lawn Is Covered in Weeds Once weeds have already germinated and started growing, a pre-emergent isn't designed to make those existing weeds disappear. At that point, you may need a different approach. That's why identifying what is currently happening in your lawn is so important. Pre-emergent and post-emergent products serve different purposes , and using the wrong one can leave you wondering why your weeds aren't going away. If you aren't sure what you're looking at, take a picture and bring it to us! Know Your Grass Before You Treat It Before applying any lawn product, make sure it is labeled for your type of turfgrass. Different lawns have different needs, and not every weed-control product is appropriate for every grass variety. Always read and follow the product label, including application rates, watering instructions, and turf restrictions. Not sure what kind of grass you have? That's exactly the kind of question we're here to help with. A Little Work Now Can Mean Fewer Weeds Later It's tempting to forget about the lawn once summer ends, but fall lawn care can make a major difference in what you're dealing with during winter and early spring. Your fall checklist can be as simple as: Identify your turfgrass. Look for existing weeds and lawn problems. Choose an appropriate fall weed-control strategy. Apply products according to their labels. Continue monitoring your lawn as temperatures change. The goal isn't to wait until there's a problem—it's to get ahead of it. Have a Lawn Question? Bring It to All Seasons! Not sure which product you need? Can't identify a weed? Wondering whether it's the right time to treat your lawn? Come see us at All Seasons Nursery & Landscaping in Lafayette . Bring us a photo of your lawn or the weed you're fighting, and our team can help you determine your next step and find a product appropriate for your lawn. Don't wait for the weeds to take over. A little fall preparation now can make maintaining your lawn much easier later!

Fall Rose Care in Louisiana: How to Keep Your Roses Healthy & Blooming Fall is one of the best seasons for roses in Louisiana. After making it through the intense heat and humidity of summer, cooler temperatures can encourage healthier foliage, richer flower color, and another beautiful flush of blooms. Whether you're growing Knock Out Roses, Drift Roses, hybrid teas, or another favorite variety, a little attention now can help your roses finish the growing season strong. 1. Give Your Roses a Late-Summer Cleanup By August, roses can look a little tired from Louisiana's summer heat. Start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased growth and cleaning fallen leaves and debris from around the base of the plant. For roses that benefit from pruning, late August into early September is a good time for a light trim to encourage fresh growth and fall flowers. Avoid extremely heavy pruning, and don't continue pruning late into fall. As colder weather approaches, new tender growth is more susceptible to frost and freeze damage. Deadheading spent blooms can also help repeat-blooming roses put their energy toward new growth and flowers instead of seed production. 2. Keep an Eye Out for Fall Rose Problems Louisiana's warmth and humidity can create ideal conditions for both insects and fungal diseases. Regularly check your roses—especially the undersides of leaves and tender new growth—for signs of trouble. Common problems to watch for include: Aphids Spider mites Thrips Whiteflies Black spot Powdery mildew Rust Catching problems early makes them much easier to manage. 3. Our Rose-Care Pick: BioAdvanced 3-in-1 If you're looking for an easy way to simplify your rose-care routine, BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control is a great product to have on hand. It provides three types of protection in one product: insect control, disease control, and spider mite control . According to BioAdvanced, it controls listed pests including aphids, thrips, whiteflies, Japanese beetles, and spider mites while also treating common rose diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew, and rust. It's labeled for use during spring, summer, and fall. That makes it especially useful during the transition into fall, when you may be dealing with lingering summer pests while also trying to protect fresh foliage from disease. Garden Tip: Always read and follow the product label before applying any pesticide, including directions for application rates, timing, plant restrictions, and precautions. 4. Don't Forget About Feeding Roses use a lot of energy producing their fall flush of flowers. In South Louisiana, late summer into early fall is an important window for fertilization, but timing matters. The University of Louisiana at Lafayette's Ira Nelson Horticulture Center recommends making the final rose fertilizer application by late September and keeping it light. Too much fertilizer late in the season can encourage tender new growth just as temperatures begin to drop. BioAdvanced also offers an All-In-One Rose & Flower Care formula that combines fertilizer with insect and disease protection. Its fertilizer analysis is 9-14-9 and it's designed to promote strong roots and blooms while protecting against listed pests and diseases. 5. Water at the Base Even when temperatures cool down, roses still need consistent moisture. Water deeply at the base of the plant rather than frequently giving it small amounts of water. Whenever possible, avoid repeatedly wetting the foliage. Keeping leaves dry can help reduce conditions that favor fungal diseases. Check the soil before watering rather than automatically watering on a schedule. Louisiana weather can change quickly in fall, and roses may need significantly less supplemental water after periods of rain. 6. Refresh Your Mulch A fresh layer of mulch is one of the simplest things you can do for your roses heading into fall and winter. Mulch helps: Retain soil moisture Moderate soil temperatures Suppress weeds Protect the root zone as temperatures fluctuate Keep mulch a few inches away from the rose's main stems rather than piling it directly against the plant. 7. Know When to Stop As we get later into fall, the goal changes from encouraging new blooms to preparing the plant for winter. Once colder weather approaches, put away the fertilizer and pruners. Pruning and fertilizing too late can stimulate tender new growth that may be damaged by freezing temperatures. We recommend waiting until late winter for more substantial pruning. At that point, simply keep your roses watered, when necessary, maintain your mulch, remove diseased debris, and enjoy the last flowers of the season. Set Your Roses Up for a Beautiful Fall Don't count your roses out after a long Louisiana summer! With a little cleanup, proper watering, timely feeding, and protection from common insects and diseases, fall can bring some of the most beautiful rose blooms of the year. Stop by All Seasons Nursery & Landscaping for your fall rose-care essentials, including BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control , and let our team help you give your roses what they need for a strong finish to the growing season. Healthy roses now can mean stronger plants, gorgeous fall color, and a better start when spring rolls around again.

As we ride out this last stretch of summer, it’s time to start looking forward to fall gardening weather. Here is a list of what to do in the garden and landscape into September. Watering: Help struggling plants survive drought stress by watering them early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler. This reduces water loss due to evaporation and allows the plants to absorb water more effectively. Be sure to water deeply at the base of the plant. This encourages plants to develop deep root systems, making them more resilient to drought. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the soil at the base of the plants. This minimizes evaporation and helps prevent wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases. Establish a watering schedule to keep track during extended drought periods. Lastly, avoid fertilizing during periods of drought and heat stress, as this can increase water demand and stress the plants even further. Rose care: This is the time of year we typically recommend trimming ever-blooming roses by a third for new blooms in October and November. Pruning plants during a drought requires a more cautious approach. Pruning can have both positive and negative effects on plants during drought conditions, so it's important to assess the situation carefully. Pruning during drought can help reduce the water demand of the plant by decreasing the overall foliage and transpiration rate. Removing dead, damaged and nonessential growth allows the plant to allocate its limited resources more efficiently to the parts that matter most for its survival. But pruning during a drought period can also exacerbate the stress plants are experiencing due to water scarcity. Pruning can temporarily slow down growth and recovery. Some guidelines for pruning during drought conditions are to limit pruning to essential tasks such as removing dead, diseased and damaged canes. Avoid heavy pruning or shaping cuts that can lead to significant water loss through wounds. If you decide to prune, do so early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler to minimize stress on the plant. Keep a close eye on the pruned plants and be sure to water them appropriately. Newly pruned plants may require extra attention and care to recover. After removing canes from your roses, disinfect pruners to prevent disease spread. When removing diseased material, rinse your pruners in a 10% bleach solution and then in water before making any new cuts. This will help prevent the transfer of disease to other parts of the plant or other plants in the garden. Do not prune once-blooming roses, as you may reduce the blooms for next year. You may remove any dead or diseased canes, however. Hold off fertilizing until temperatures and rain become more consistent. Fungal disease prevention: Spray roses for blackspot and powdery mildew using appropriate fungicides. You may choose to use triforine, thiophanate methyl or copper oleate. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully. Rake up and remove all fallen leaves to prevent further infection of rose bushes and dispose of them in the trash. Do not compost infected plant material. Bed maintenance: Trim and stake tall plants and deadhead annuals, perennials and vines. Remove tired plants and think about replacements for cooler weather. Start selecting cool-season annuals and perennials for the landscape. This is also a great time to start thinking about what trees and shrubs to plant in the fall. Lawn care: Watch for chinch bug damage, treating with insecticides if necessary. Fire ants are a problem on the lawn as well. Treat with granular baits if needed.  Transplanting and vegetables: You can transfer fall tomato plants. Be sure to monitor for pests and diseases. You’ll be able to replace spent summer crops with broccoli, cabbage, kale and more in the upcoming months. Consider keeping productive spring plants like eggplants and peppers. Complete these tasks to ensure your garden thrives into the fall and remains resilient against drought and heat and the threat of hurricanes.

There’s no need to completely rework your summer containers to give them fall flair. Instead, here’s some ideas for updating existing container gardens (or, if you’re inspired, potting up new ones), including one plant to add for instant drama, and a zero-effort, lazy-gardener’s trick for covering a bare spot. 1. Add bold foliage plants. Swap tired warm-season flowers for richly colored foliage plants, leaving mature evergreens and long-lasting perennials in place. Add height to the design, with brightly colored foliage plants providing seasonal interest. Plants you may have in your container, like coleus and sweet potato vine, that are not winter-hardy, could be traded for dianthus and petunias moving into the holidays. 2. Tuck in cool-season flowers. After removing summer annuals past their prime, fill in the gaps with cool-season bloomers in fall colors. Although they may look tender and delicate, pansies are actually some of the most cold-tolerant annual flowers. We advise waiting until the nighttime temperatures stay consistently in the 60s for planting pansies. For a rich autumn color palette, choose pansies in vibrant hues like orange, gold, red and deep purple or bicolored combinations, avoiding pastel pinks, blues and pale yellows. Combine them with coral bells, another cool-season favorite, for a long-lasting display.  3. Plant an ornamental grass for instant drama. To give some serious pizazz to existing container gardens by adding just one plant, reach for Purple Fountain Grass. The dramatic ornamental grass can reach 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide (although usually smaller in containers) with a vase-like shape topped with fuzzy purple seed heads. 4. Play up texture. Consider adding one or more textural ingredients like plants with berries, twiggy branches, grassy leaves or broad foliage. Even easier: Add texture without planting by sticking dried curly willow branches or ornamental seedpods from floral displays into the pot. 5. Pop in late-blooming perennials. We have plenty of late-summer and fall-blooming perennials. Just adding a few coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, or chrysanthemums can transform existing container displays. The flowers will add color through fall and come back in spring for another bloom period. 6. Incorporate dark foliage. Deepen existing container designs with the addition of one or more cool-tolerant, dark-leaved plants, like an ornamental pepper Black Olive variety. 7. Cover a bare patch with a pumpkin. It’s a great gardener’s hack! If you’ve pulled out some tired-looking summer annuals but don’t have the time to hunt down a replacement plant, plunk a pumpkin down to cover the bare spot. 8. Reshuffle your container layout. Sometimes all containers need is a regrouping, rather than a replanting, for a fresh perspective. Take stock of all your potted plants and see which ones could work together as part of a fall container vignette. Do you have ornamental grasses in one pot that complement the leaf tones of a plant in a container across the yard? If the light requirements of the plants match, move the containers together as a combination. 9. Change the underplanting. Update the look of containers with shrubs, small trees or mature vines without any major repotting by changing any low-growing plants beneath them.

In mid-August, the Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds are back in our area for their fall migration! Since you can expect to see increasing numbers of them, stock your feeders and yard with plants to attract & fuel them for their long journey south! The Ruby-Throated Hummingbird, the East Coast’s most common hummingbird, is certainly one of the most fantastic creatures in Gulf Coast gardens. These garden jewels will stay with us until they begin to migrate further South, usually in mid-October. To understand why we see so many hummingbirds in spring and fall, and very few or none in summer or winter, let’s learn a little bit about these fascinating friends. Considered the acrobats of the natural world, hummingbirds are an endless source of amazement. Not requiring forward thrust to maintain flight, the peerless hummingbird can hover in place, perform somersaults, or even fly backwards and upside down! Their behavior is also quite spirited. Hummingbirds are extremely active, territorial, and even aggressive, behaving much like tiny little warriors, competing for the best food and shelter. And all this from the smallest feathered animals on earth. The metabolism of a hummingbird is extraordinary. Their hearts beat a staggering 1,200 times per minute, whereas in full flight – up to 50 mph – their wings may beat as many as 200 times per second! You can clearly hear a hummingbird in flight, oftentimes before you ever see it. This astounding capability helps to explain their diminutive size – a larger bird would never be able to power such thrust. They hold virtually every record on being tiny, from lightest bodyweight to shortest beak-to-tail length to lightest eggs, all in support of that Olympian speed and endurance. It is a wonder that such tiny things can explode with such energy, but there is at least an easy answer as to how that’s possible – hummingbirds are voracious eaters. They are so territorial over food resources because their very lives depend on a steady intake of calories to maintain that movement. Seeds are simply too heavy and slowly digested to do the hummingbird any good. Hummingbirds will feed up to ten times per hour on straight sugar – in the form of plant nectar, of course – just to keep themselves in the air. Insects & spiders are also an important source of protein and minerals. The plant in turn gets pollinated by the hummingbird, so the act of feeding is mutually beneficial, and is one of the most fascinating relationships in nature. The showy petals exist exclusively to attract insects and birds to the plants; otherwise we would not have any beautiful flowers at all. Hummingbirds are so dependent on a steady diet of nectar that they are particularly attuned to the seasons. The places on earth that provide a food source year round are few, so they migrate vast distances (4,000 miles for the west-coast Rufous Hummingbird) to follow the sequential spring and fall bloom of plants, from tropical Central America all the way up to Canada and back. They cannot afford for a plant to stop blooming before moving on to find more food, so they probably use the duration of daylight to determine when it is time to start moving south. Their lean build comes at the expense of sparse reserves of fat. It is impossible for hummingbirds to endure times without a food source. Another hardship of the hummingbird is that its short, stout wings are not made for gliding flight. They flap their wings for every inch of the 25 or so miles per day they may travel. In fall, many Ruby Throats congregate along the Gulf Coast to store up enough energy for one final burst across the Gulf of Mexico or across arid portions of Mexico before reaching the rainforests of the equatorial zone. When we have mild winters, it is becoming more and more common for some hummers to stay along the coast instead of braving ahead to Mexico, including some western species we would not otherwise see! Winter sightings in Louisiana have included the Rufous, Black-Chinned, Buff-Bellied, Calliope, and Allen’s and Anna’s hummingbirds. So, what can we do to get more hummers in our yard every year? The main ways to attract them to your garden/landscape are to accommodate them with food and water. Of course, hummingbird plants are a must! The aptly named Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) hits a peak bloom in the fall, but any variety of Salvia will be a hummingbird favorite. A number of other tubular blooms are great nectar plants for hummingbirds, from Porterweed to Cigar Plant to Mexican Fire Bush to Cat’s Whiskers. Bottlebrush is a shrub that blooms in spring and fall and is another favorite. If you have a large area for a big, woody vine, Trumpet Creeper is an absolute hummingbird magnet! See an associate at the Garden Center for a more planting ideas! Of course, hummingbird feeders provide an easily maintained source of nectar – stir 1 part white sugar into 4 parts hot water, and always let it cool before filling your feeder. Don’t want to make it yourself? We sell already made, pour and go nectar! Always keep hummingbird feeders clean and free of mildew with a pipe cleaner. Hummingbirds, with their high metabolism, also like a place to perch nearby for frequent breaks. Small trees or large hedges are ideal, but a metal or wooden perch can be hung on a shepherd’s hook, as well. Bird baths should be kept clean and full for hummingbirds and other migratory birds, especially at this time. Last but not least – please do not spray your hummingbird plants with chemicals or systemic insecticides. If insecticides are needed, use horticultural oils or insecticidal soap!  An amazing fact is that a hummingbird that feeds in your yard one year will return to that food source every year! So, if you’ve seen them in your yard before, make sure to keep up your supply for them. If you don’t get as many or any, come over and let us help you change that for this season! If you use nectar, it’s important to always keep it clean and fresh. Hummingbirds stay clear of fermented nectar, which supports deadly mold growth. Feeders should be cleaned twice once a week in our hot weather. This prevents harmful microorganisms from forming. Summer Plants to Attract Hummingbirds Want to appeal to hummingbirds? Consider these flowers they love to visit during their fall migration: For further growing information on each one, come visit us! We’d love to tell you all about these, and send them home with you! Bee Balm Bottlebrush Butterfly Bush Canna Lily Cardinal Flower Cleome Cigar Plant Compact Fire Bush Pentas Lantana Daylilies Flowering Tobacco Impatiens Porterweed Salvia Verbena Hummingbird Fun Facts: During their migrations, they fly 500 miles nonstop over the Gulf of Mexico! To make that journey, they need to weigh 1.5x their usual weight. Bring on the nectar! Flying speeds can reach up to 60mph! They can fly forward, backward, up, down, upside down briefly, and even sideways! However, flying is their only mode of transport- they cannot walk. Hummingbirds beat their wings 78 times per second! When diving, it more than triples to 200 times per second! Their heart beat 1,260 times and they take about 250 breaths per minute. Their tongues can reach out over 2-3’’! Perfect for trumpet-shaped flowers! They live an average of 3-5 years. For more migration information, visit: https://www.hummingbirdcentral.com/hummingbird-migration.htm Come see us to stock up on everything you’ll need to supply our quick-winged friends for their journey! Good luck viewing hummingbirds in your own back yard!

Want to appeal to hummingbirds? Consider these flowers they love to visit. Little John Bottlebrush Hummingbirds love these red “bottle-brush-“ shaped blooms that pop out at the perfect time hummingbirds are fluttering fast through Acadiana. These are hardy evergreen dwarf shrubs that go great in any landscape. The “Hannah Ray” tree-form variety is a wispy focal point. Bee Balm Bee balm's blooms appear in mid to late summer, and can even remain into the fall. The striking flowers come in white, pink, red or purple, and complement the dark, aromatic foliage. This perennial is susceptible to powdery mildew, so plant in full sun to part shade and select resistant varieties. Bee balm likes medium to wet soil and works well in a wildlife garden. Bee balm is attractive to bees, but this bergamot is equally attractive to hummingbirds. Butterfly Bush Buddleia davidii attracts butterflies with its blooms of lavender, pink, white, purple, red or yellow. These blooms can appear beginning in early spring and continue until first frost. In full sun, butterfly bush can grow up to 10 feet tall. Butterfly bush is an aggressive grower, and removing spent blooms will encourage more attractive, fragrant flowers for a long period. Grow in massed plantings in cottage gardens and butterfly gardens, and use in border plantings. Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis features reddish purple stems, bronzy leaves and scarlet flowers. A perennial, it can reach four feet tall and spread up to 36 inches wide. Cardinal flower appreciates full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Consider growing in a container in a wetlands setting, and water this plant often. Cardinal flower blooms beginning in mid summer through the first frost. Cigar Plant Cigar plant is slow to take off in spring, but by the time hummers arrive in fall, they are in full bloom! Many varieties are available, but the name comes from the orange variety with a purple-black tip on the tubular bloom, resembling a smoldering cigar. Pink and yellow varieties are also common. A related plant, the Bat-Face Cuphea, makes bright red blooms with two purple wings that resemble a bat’s ears. Hummers love them all equally. Delphinium Hummingbirds love delphinium, which blooms in early summer. Height for these perennials can average anywhere from 2 to 8 feet tall, depending on variety. Delphinium requires rich soil, and areas with relatively cool summers. ‘Diamonds Blue’ is a variety bred for the heat that will tolerate our weather much better. Foxglove If you’re thinking about adding a cottage-garden look, you may want to consider foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), which may extend up to 6 feet when in bloom, depending on the variety and growing conditions. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and full sun to medium shade. Its blossoms — in purple, pink, yellow and white — attract hummingbirds. Please note that all parts of the plant are poisonous to people, pets and livestock. Foxglove is considered invasive along the West Coast and in some parts of New England. Mexican Fire Bush This subshrub or perennial plant produces loads of orange tubular blooms that are a delight to hummingbirds. It will flower best in uninterrupted full sun, and doesn’t mind being a little dry. Flower time is from early summer all through fall. Though a variegated variety, ‘Lime Sizzler’ adds a wonderful chartreuse splash to tropical gardens, the old-fashioned standard will produce the most flowers. Porterweed Though each flower is very tiny and dainty, they are borne on long flowering stems, so plants are typically loaded with little purple flowers that hummers love. Porterweed is semi-tropical, and might not survive a sudden, hard freeze. Keep it in a pot that can be brought in on cold nights, or replant in spring. Though they are typically purple, red or coral varieties are also available. Salvia All salvia species are characterized by vertical spikes of vibrant flowers that can be found in hues of blue, red, pink or violet. Bloom time varies according to variety, and their flowers are a welcome sight for hummingbirds. Salvia microphylla 'Hot Lips' is an erect, clump forming perennial salvia that is noted for its compact form, long bloom period, purple stems and red and white flowers. Yarrow Varieties of the tough summer-blooming yarrow come in yellow, white, orange, red, pink and coral. Butterflies and hummingbirds enjoy its blooms, which start early in the season and can last into mid fall, depending on the species and variety. Yarrow grows best in well-drained, average to poor soil, and can reach up to 48 inches. Trumpet Vine A beautiful climber for any structure, this vine blooms trumpet-shaped coral flowers that are also known as “hummingbird vine” since they love it! The foliage is dense and evergreen, and it loves full sun to part shade. Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.