The Joy of Bird Feeding

May 18, 2023

Why feed birds?

It takes time, money, effort, and dedication to consistently feed birds the most nutritious and most attractive foods. Why do we do it?

Enjoyment

The most obvious benefit is simple enjoyment their company can bring us- their colors, their songs, their behaviors. While birds will naturally visit any backyard, adding feeders and bird friendly plants will attract more species and keep them there longer.

Interacting with nature

For many urban birders, the birds they see at their feeders may be the only wild animals they have a chance to interact with. This can be an ideal activity for senior citizens, individuals with limited mobility, or young children to get their first exposure to nature. Children can enjoy the whole process, from buying the food, filling the feeders, and watching the birds.

Giving Back to Nature

While feeding the birds brings backyard birders many benefits, it also benefits the birds by replacing food sources that have destroyed by development. When homes are built and landscaped, birds lose important nesting spots, shelter, and natural food sources, but proper feeding and landscaping can help replace those resources. Our efforts to create inviting habitats in our yards and to provide food and water actually do make a difference.

Your own organic pest control

Birds eat much more than seed, suet, and nectar. Feeding birds in your backyard invites them to feast on the insects such as mosquitoes, snails, and spiders in your landscape.

Combined with Gardening

Truly useful habitat for the birds combines food, water, and places to raise their young. We can provide some food and water, but birds still have to have trees, bushes, perennials, annuals, and “wild places” to thrive.

Bird Feeders

With the right bird feeders, seed and other foods you can better attract birds.

Feeders are not “one size fits all”–different species are attracted to different designs.

A platform feeder or tray is any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread. Trays are a great first feeder and attract most species of feeder birds. Backyard birds find food by sight and if you offer foods on a tray with nothing to come between the birds and the food you make it especially easy. Birds prefer its ease of landing and wide space for scratching around for their favorite seed.

Tray feeders are great for viewing birds and their behavior; however, a tray feeder’s capacity is low and the food can get wet, it needs to be filled every day or so.

Even though one feeder can serve many species, a variety of feeders can entice even more birds.

A hopper feeder is a platform upon which walls and a roof are built, forming a “hopper” that protects seed against the weather. This feeder can hold a seed blend that attracts 80% of the local birds and last four or more days before refilling.

A suet feeder provides a very high energy food and is a favorite of woodpeckers. The best suet for bird feeding is a “suet blend cake” made with high-quality rendered beef kidney fat and added protein such as peanuts, nuts, and dried insects.

Tube feeders work well for sunflower hearts or for blends combining sunflower hearts, peanut pieces, and safflower. Tube feeders have smaller food openings and fewer places to perch. This is a good solution for too many doves or house sparrows at your feeder.

Cylinder feeders

Circular cakes called “cylinders hold seed together with a natural protein binder. Cylinders can contain seeds, suet, nuts, or various combinations of those ingredients. Cylinders are great all the time, but they are perfect when you go on vacation because there is always something to eat. Cylinder are exposed to rain so use smaller cakes or cut them in half crosswise and put out half at a time.

Nectar feeders are specially made to dispense nectar through small holes. Choose a feeder that is easy to take apart and clean, because the feeder should be washed or run through the dishwasher frequently.

Characteristics of feeders to consider include:

  • Visibility so birds will notice the new feeder and see the available seed
  • Appropriate feeding ports for seed type and desired bird species
  • Multiple perches or platforms to accommodate many birds comfortably
  • Feeder capacity and refill frequency expectations
  • Pest-resistant features, such as built-in baffles or no-chew construction
  • Suitability to the climate to keep seed dry, if needed
  • Durability and ease of maintenance and cleaning to keep the feeder in top shape
  • Demonstrate how the feeders meet those characteristics.

Types of seeds

Like people, birds have different preferences when it comes to food.

The most common type of seed offered at feeders in North America is black-oil sunflower seed. It is high in energy and has thin shells, making it the preferred food item for a wide variety of birds. Black-oil sunflower is among the favorite feeder foods of cardinals, chickadees, finches, and sparrows. Sunflower seeds mimic the seeds of trees including pine, spruce, fir, elm, and sweetgum, plus flower seeds of all sizes, and of course, sunflowers. Sunflower seeds without hulls are called chips, hearts, or kernels. Sunflower-loving birds split sunflower seeds (cadinals), pound them open (chickadees and titmice), or swallow them whole (doves).

Safflower seed is a whitish seed similar to sunflower in its amount of fat, protein, and calories. It is an excellent problem-solver when used alone in a feeder, because while blackbirds, European starlings, and many squirrels don’t like it, Northern Cardinals, chickadees, House Finches, Tufted Titmice, and many other sunflower-loving birds do. You may have to do a 5ifty-fifty blend of sunflower seeds and safflower seeds to introduce it.

White proso millet, a shiny round seed, is the best small seed to include in blends or offer alone. Such beautiful birds as Dark-eyed Juncos, White Crowned Sparrows, and Painted Buntings are attracted to millet. None of the other grains, such as milo, wheat, and canary seed, are liked as much as white millet, so look for blends that have white millet and none of those other grains.

Birds constantly seek out high-energy foods, and peanuts are one of the highest calorie foods they can find, second only to sunflower hearts.

Peanuts are fed to birds in a variety of forms, including peanuts in the shell, shelled peanuts, peanut pieces, and peanut hearts.

Peanuts in the shell are a challenge and only a few birds have the beak strength to open them. Blue Jays, Tufted Titmice, and many woodpeckers can crack holes in the shells. Jays love peanuts in the shell; they often cache peanuts for later retrieval. Chickadees and titmouse hold the peanuts in their feet and peck it into smaller bits.

If you use a no-mess blend such as sunflower chips, peanut pieces, and hulled white millet, you will avoid piles of shells on the ground or deck. With additions of tree nuts and dried fruit, you can broaden the appeal to even more birds.

Getting the right feeder and filling it with seeds is a great start. But are you providing the best space for the birds? There are many factors that that go into backyard birding and these are some of the common mistakes.

1. Not providing clean water

Birds rely on food AND water from their favorite backyards. Providing a source of water along with your feeder will make your backyard a one-stop shop for birds. Empty and refill your bird bath every few days in both summer and winter.

2. Using Bargain Basement Birdseed

The cheapest birdseed is often loaded with inexpensive fillers such as cracked corn, milo, oats, or wheat. These seeds and grains appeal to very few species, and other birds will toss the seed to the ground instead of eating it, causing a mess of sprouting weeds. Birders can save money on birdseed by choosing the types of seeds their birds prefer and only offering those good foods so none goes to waste.

3. Using Only One Kind of Bird Feeder

Birds have different diet preferences, and different species prefer different feeder styles. Open feeders with trays or perches will attract a decent variety of birds, but to maximize bird feeding it is essential to use different feeders. Consider a mesh sock for goldfinches, nectar feeders for hummingbirds, suet feeders for woodpeckers, mealworm dishes for bluebirds, and jelly feeders for orioles.

4. Not Cleaning Bird Feeders

Dry seed in feeders should be changed every 5-7 days and the feeders should be cleaned monthly. Hummingbird feeder nectar should be changed every two to three days, and cleaned weekly. Don’t overfill feeders until you know how much the birds will eat. Cleaning feeders regularly helps prevent bacteria that can be harmful to birds. If there is any moisture from rain or sprinklers, feeders should be cleaned more often. Clean feeders with hot soapy water or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to get rid of bacteria, fungi, or mold. Rinse thoroughly. Wear gloves.

5. Not Feeding Winter Birds

Many novice birders assume it isn't necessary to feed birds in winter because there are no birds around. In fact, feeders can be even more critical to winter birds than they are during the summer when hatchlings need to be fed, and there are dozens of winter backyard birds, many of which aren't around in the summer, that will happily visit bird feeders for a healthy winter meal.

6. Making Bad Hummingbird Nectar

The best way to attract hummingbirds is to use the right red feeder with clear hummingbird nectar. The red dye found in some homemade nectar or other brands can be harmful to hummingbirds. Never use any sweetener other than plain white sugar to make nectar. Choices such as honey, brown sugar, fruit juices, and artificial sweeteners do not provide the proper sugar concentration for hummingbird food, and they can produce mold that is deadly to the birds. Use a product that contains feeder fresh or nectar defender in your hummingbird nectar recipe. There are other ways to attract hummers. Plant salvias, pentas, cannas, bee balm, porter weed, and other hummingbird friendly plants to make your garden a hummingbird haven.

7. Not providing shelter

Birds find comfort in natural shelter from shrubs, trees, and bushes.This provides cover, protection against predators, and nesting areas. Make sure trees and taller shrubbery aren’t too close to feeders because this can give cats an advantage.

8. Letting Feeders Get Empty

Birds can be forgiving if a feeder is empty for a few days, but a feeder that is consistently empty won't attract birds. Wild birds won't starve if feeders are empty since they get most of their food from natural sources, but they also won't return to an unreliable food source. Refilling feeders more promptly will attract a wider variety of birds in every season and will help keep the feeder clean and in good repair. A seed cylinder is a good choice if your will be out of town a few days.

9. Ignoring Natural Bird Food Sources

Feeding birds does not have to mean putting out multiple bird feeders and spending money on expensive seed, not to mention the time and effort to fill and clean feeders. Birders who avoid natural foods such as fruit trees or nectar-producing flowers, or who kill insects that birds can feed on, are depriving birds of the most nutritious, easiest, and most economical food sources available.

10. Not Protecting Bird Feeders

There are many other forms of wildlife that will raid feeders before birds can even get a chance to have a meal. Raccoons, deer, squirrels, rats, and even bears will snack at feeders, often depleting the seed supply or even breaking the feeders without letting any birds get a bite. At the same time, unprotected feeders also expose birds to predators when their senses are dulled by feeding.

11. Storing Seed Carelessly

Birdseed does have a long shelf life, but only if stored properly. Seed that isn't stored well can spoil and be invaded by pests such as mice, rats, larvae, silverfish, earwigs, or moths. As seed gets old and dries out, it is also less nutritious and will not attract as many birds. If water gets into the seed, mold can grow that can make birds sick and the strong smell may attract even more unwanted pests.

December To Do List
November 21, 2025
It's time to select your Christmas tree! Here, we have your tree BY NAME! How about having "The Hulk" or "Minnie Mouse" in your living room? Always make sure your tree receives a fresh cut before taking it home. We do this for you! When selecting, cup your hand at the base of a branch and run up down the length of the branch. If the needles have a healthy green color, are soft and hold fast, the tree is fresh. Christmas trees need a stand. Make sure it is large enough to hold at least one gallon of water. Replenish the water as needed, never letting the water level drop below the bottom of the trunk. Add tree preservative to the water to help keep it fresh longer. DECEMBER TO DO LIST: -Plant cool-season annuals & vegetables -Lower lawn mower blades for cool-season lawns -Stop feeding St. Augustine lawns -Place a bird feeder in the garden since natural food sources may not be available as much for birds -Freshen up container gardens -Divide and replant all clumping perennials -Plant all kinds of hardy plants {trees, shrubs, perennials & vines} -Reduce water on deciduous fruit trees -As bulb foliage yellows and goes dormant, separate and replant for next season's bloom -Pansies and other cool-season annuals benefit from using blood meal when planted in order to keep the older foliage healthy. - Apply Turf & Ornamental Weed & Grass Stopper by Hi-Yield containing Dimension in flower beds to prevent cool weather weeds from growing. Try to apply right before a rainfall or deeply water in. -Apply fresh bed dressing (mulch, straw, etc.) to flowerbeds to help prevent winter weeds and to insulate the roots of landscape plants -Water landscape plants every 7-10 days or as needed - Do NOT prune landscape plants back yet, wait until mid-January to early February. Pruning back now may promote new growth. Tender vegetation is much more susceptible to cold damage, which may occur if we have a strong cold front in January. Also, remember not to prune azaleas until after they bloom in the spring.
Yuletide Camellia
November 21, 2025
Camellias sasanquas are often dressed up for the holidays by blooming at this time of the year, which makes them ideal landscape shrubs in your landscape. This festive beauty, with the equally festive name, blooms throughout the holiday season with an abundance of large, ruffled, long-blooming, red flowers and a bright yellow center that shines like Rudolph’s nose! In addition to its striking holiday look, it has attractive, glossy, dark-green evergreen foliage. You will enjoy the blooms from the holiday season well into early Spring. To keep this camellia in “holiday spirits” all year long, provide rich, acidic, moist (but not standing water) and well-drained soil. They will reach 5 feet tall, and will spread about 6 feet wide. It does best in partial to full shade. Please note that it does not like direct afternoon sun, especially in our summer heat. This is a relatively low maintenance shrub, and should only be pruned after flowering to avoid removing any of the current season's flowers. We recommended the Yuletide Camellia for the following landscape applications: § Accent § Mass Planting § Hedges/Screening § General Garden Use § Container Planting If you’re planting it in a container, it would be an ideal “thriller” since it has an upright growth habit. Plant it near the center of the pot, surrounded by smaller plants and those that spill over the edges. It is even sizeable enough that it can be grown alone in a suitable container. Also note that when growing plants in outdoor containers and baskets, they may require more frequent waterings than they would in the yard or garden. Celebrate the Yuletide with a Yuletide! Click here to learn more about the Yuletide Camellia.
holiday houseplants
November 20, 2025
Decorate your home for the holidays with these colorful houseplant options. Poinsettia Loved for their big, bright, red blooms, these classic holiday plants are actually tropical plants, making poinsettias the perfect houseplant candidate year-round. If displayed outdoors, be sure to bring in on nights below 40 degrees! Click here to read more about Poinsettias. Click here to read more about Poinsettia Care through Winter + Beyond Amaryllis and Paperwhites (Narcissus) Amaryllis and Paperwhite bulbs bought from the nursery have been “forced” to bloom inside during the winter months and help create an exotic display when grouped together. When flowers fade in January, trim back the flowering stem and plant outdoors; they will bloom again in the spring! Click here to read more about Amaryllis. Alyssum Small, fragrant white flowers resemble a powder snow when planted in mass as a landscape border. Add in any holiday porch planter as fillers to bring a soft look to other holiday plants. The sweet smell will welcome your holiday company! Anthurium Anthurium is a tropical plant that shows off shiny, dark green foliage with flowers that can be red, yellow or green. They like light shade, and a warm and humid atmosphere, so misting is beneficial. Anthuriums offer a relatively long bloom time and easy rebloom, so they are much easier than many other flowering houseplants! Cyclamen Cyclamen is an essential part of the winter garden that can also be potted and kept indoors. Cyclamen are loved for their colorful blooms and dark green foliage that last throughout the winter. Cyclamen love cool weather outdoors, so when inside, they must be kept away from heater vents, and might like being set next to a cool window! Click here to read more about Cyclamen. Norfolk Island Pine You may recognize the Norfolk Island Pine as the small tree offered in many stores and garden centers around Christmastime, often covered in a layer of glitter. Be careful: this conifer is adapted to warm-weather, and will perish in cold climates. Bring in on nights that frost is expected! Fiddleleaf Fig The fiddleleaf fig tree has large, attractive leaves and can grow up to six feet or more. The tree thrives in humidity, so place it in a warm, sunny spot and run a humidifier in the winter months, or mist the leaves regularly if heaters are run high. Christmas Cactus The Christmas cactus is perfect for a tall pot or a hanging basket, which allows the long, bright green stems terminating in red, white, pink, purple or orange flowers to rain down in the fall and winter. Christmas cactus grown indoors year-round must be forced to bloom, as the indoor environment doesn’t provide the conditions necessary to trigger a bloom. Read or article about Christmas cactus to learn how to make them bloom! Click here to read more about Christmas Cactus.  Bromeliads Bromeliads are loved for their striking, colorful foliage. Keep these tropicals in a warm location that receives plenty of light for the best chance of blooming, but don't be disappointed if yours doesn't bloom, or only blooms once. Peperomia Peperomia are small houseplants with interesting foliage that varies depending on the variety. They love humidity, so water often and consider keeping in the bathroom. The perfect plant to give as a gift to the budding plant enthusiast in your family! Kalanchoe Kalanchoe is a thick-leaved succulent that naturally produce flowers in a variety of colors, most commonly red, pink, yellow and white. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is one of the most widely available varieties. Keep your kalanchoe in a warm, sunny window and let the soil dry between waterings.
Christmas Clip Tips
November 19, 2025
Trees need to be placed in water with tree preserve within 30 minutes of receiving a fresh cut! On its first day in your living room, it can go through a gallon of water, so make sure to keep water in the stand! To avoid it drying out and becoming brittle, don’t place it around a fireplace or other heat source. Do not water snow flocked trees! Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Christmas Tree Tips! Ready for an easy and quick decorating tip? Use ball garland in your trees or wreaths! These unique garland strands are loaded with shiny baubles ready to trim your tree! All you have to do is wind the wire frame through your sections and voila- it looks a lot like Christmas! Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Decorating with Ball Garland! Deck your halls with fresh fir wreaths and garlands! When you first purchase them, soak them in a bathtub or large sink. Around the middle of the month, soak them again to keep them fresh, merry and bright! Anytime they look like they are dry, spray them with water or soak them for a quick re-fresh! Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Fresh Garland and Wreath Care! They’re the most memorable plants of the year: Poinsettias, Christmas Cactus, Cyclamen, Lemon Cypress, Holly, Norfolk Pines, Amaryllis and Rosemary. Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Holiday Plants! Amaryllis bulbs are easy to grow and produce blooms to captivate you. Plant the bulb up to its neck in the soil, and press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting. They flower from late December until the end of June for lasting beauty. Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Amaryllis Bulbs! DIG container gardening by planting a thriller, fillers and spillers for eye-catching fall containers! Use a powerful blend of soil ideal for container gardening such as Happy Frog, Ocean Forest or Strawberry Fields. Watch your pots explode in color! Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Cool Season Containers! Apply Winterizer on all types of grasses, trees, and shrubs now in fall to help build vigorous root systems during the winter months ahead! Winterizer enhances winter hardiness and promotes earlier green up of your plants come Springtime! Click here to watch our Clip Tip on Winterizer! Click here for more information on Winterizer.
Poinsettia care  through winter
November 19, 2025
This iconic holiday plant has tropical roots. Get tips on keeping your poinsettia looking its best all year. Perhaps no flower represents the winter holidays like the poinsettia. However, these festive plants, which range from the traditional red to pale yellow, can be mysterious when it comes to care and maintenance. Here are some tips on poinsettia care that can help extend those blooms as long as possible – and maybe even encourage your poinsettia to bloom again next year: Warm and Bright: It may seem strange due to their holiday connotations, but poinsettias are tropical plants. Provide lots of sunlight — a sunny window with east, west, or southern exposure is best. Also try to keep the temperature between 65 and 70 degrees F during the day, keeping in mind that the area around a drafty window can be quite a bit cooler than the rest of the room. If your plant’s leaves are touching a cold window, they may drop off. At night, poinsettias like a slightly lower temperature (55 – 60 degrees F), but avoid drastic drops in temperatures. Hydrated and Humid: Make sure to water the poinsettia whenever the surface of the soil feels dry. Give the plant a good watering, but don’t flood or soak it – gravel in the bottom of the pot will help keep the roots dry. If your home is dry during the winter months, a humidifier or plant mister can help your plant stay hydrated. Prevent Leaf Loss: If your plant starts to lose leaves, there are a few likely culprits: is the plant resting against a cold window or near a draft? Is it too warm or dry in the room? Is the plant thirsty? With correct care, poinsettias can be encouraged to re-bloom next holiday, but it’s a touchy and time-consuming process that not all poinsettia fans are prepared for. Save for the Coming Year: First of all, after bloom time, in the spring, poinsettias can benefit from a period of semi-dormancy. You should slow down the watering to weekly at most. Old leaves may shrivel and drop; this is perfectly okay! At this time, you can cut back the plant’s stems to encourage fresh growth. At this point, when things warm up a bit in spring, it is okay to put it outdoors in a sheltered location such as a covered porch or patio. Pinch back the plant throughout the growing seasons to keep it compact and bushy; poinsettias can get quite large! Repot into a larger container if necessary. Prepping the Plant for Bloom: Now, to get it to bloom ! It may still be warm in early October, but now it is time to bring it indoors. Every night for at least 6 weeks, put the poinsettia in a completely dark room, like a laundry room or closet, for about 14-16 hours EVERY night. The change in photoperiod is what encourages the poinsettia to change color and bloom. This will happen naturally outdoors, but not in time to have a color change by Christmas, and the plant cannot endure the cooler weather outdoors, so the dark room indoors is the preferred method.  Showing Its Holiday Cheer: After doing this throughout October and November, the tops leaves of the plant should emerge red (or white, or pink, depending on your variety), and it should bloom! The showy part of the poinsettia are the leaves, but small yellow flower will emerge from the red fresh growth.
Poinsettias
November 19, 2025
Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are one of the most popular winter and Christmastime plants. They can be found this time of year in retail outlets and florists and now even in grocery stores. The gorgeous display of bright red against dark green foliage is the perfect combination to match our traditional Christmas palette of red and green. These colors have been used for decorative purposes during winter months dating back to Roman times with the celebration honoring the god Saturn each year between Dec. 17 and 23. The tradition was carried on by Christians as early as the 1300s. Native to Mexico and Central America, the poinsettia grows naturally in the landscape in moist areas that get six to eight hours of indirect sunlight. The Aztecs of Mexico cultivated and used poinsettias for decorative purposes in religious ceremonies, medicinal purposes and as a reddish-purple dye. Poinsettias get their name from Joel Poinsett. A member of the U.S. House of Representatives from South Carolina, he was a physician and minister to Mexico in the early 1820s. Poinsett sent the plant back home to South Carolina and shared it with other plant enthusiasts. Since then it has been grown and used by florists and decorators alike during the winter. Highly cultivated, hundreds of varieties come in shades of red, white and pink and mottled or striped combinations of the colors. Poinsettias do well in containers indoors year-round in well-lit areas protected from drafts and outdoors on patios or protected from full sun during the warmer months. The showy colors of the poinsettias are not flowers. They are actually modified leaves called bracts. The actual flowers are the yellow centers of the bracts. When grown naturally in its native setting, the plant is a large shrub or small tree that grows up to 10 to 15 feet high. As a potted plant, they usually only grow 1 to 2 feet tall. To care for it, water the plant when the soil dries. They do not like to be too wet or too dry. Water at the base of the plant directly on the soil. The plant produces a milky sap that may irritate those who are sensitive to latex. If eaten in large quantities, the sap may cause a mild irritation or possible nausea for pets, especially small kittens and puppies who just love to destroy plants. However, poinsettias are not poisonous, according to a study at The Ohio State University. The best way to select a poinsettia is to look for one that has at least six or more bracts extending over the lower green leaves. Inspect the leaves — they should not droop — and check underneath for pests such as white flies. The longest-lasting poinsettias will have no pollen or sap in the yellow flowers in the center of the bracts. If they have begun to show yellow pollen and sap, poinsettias will not provide a display for much longer. A poinsettia should last for four to six weeks in the home if properly cared for. Once Christmas is past, plants may continue to look good into spring. After that, some folks just throw them away or compost them. They can be transplanted into the yard, but you may lose them during hard freezes if not protected. South sides of the house will be the most protected. Before planting, cut them back to one-half their size. You can also try to get your poinsettia to bloom again for the following year. Poinsettias are short-day plants. That means they set buds and make flowers when the nights lengthen in fall and winter. To help the plant flower and develop the colored bracts, it must receive six to eight hours of indirect sunlight during the day and 14 hours of darkness at night for 40 days straight, starting about Oct. 1. You can do this by covering the plant with a black plastic bag to the ground every afternoon and continuing the practice daily until color shows in the bracts. I’ve successfully done this — with patience. Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.
Live Greenery
November 17, 2025
Live wreaths, garland, door charms, centerpieces and more are great for showing the spirit of Christmas in your home! They add ambience and a terrific “Christmassy” scent in the air. Here are some tips on keeping your fresh greenery lasting through the season: Submerge your greenery in a large container of water for a few hours or overnight. Select a location out of direct sunlight (for outdoors) or away from heat or warm air (for indoors) To help balance the moisture greenery releases, mist it with a spray bottle of water every few days.  If your greenery starts to dry out or doesn't appear fresh, just re-submerge it in water for a few hours. You'll be surprised how it livens up your greenery!
Christmas Tree Decorating Guide
November 17, 2025
Christmas Tree Decorating is not an exact science but more of an art. There are no fixed rules. Unfortunately, one size does not fit all, but this guide can be used to loosely help instruct you, the designer, on how many of each item you may need for your project. A lot of people start with light coverage and add to their tree every year until they achieve the desired look. We are STOCKED full of ribbons in every shade of Christmas theme you can imagine- from whimsical to elegant to traditional to blue. We also have a huge selection of sprays and stems as well as ornaments to create the look you’re dreaming about! Shop our garden center for your fresh cut Christmas tree, then step inside the gift shop to dress it up! It is up to you to decide what look you like best. Some choose to incorporate more ornaments than sprays and stems and vice versa. Also, ribbon is a great space filler. And you will need to keep in mind how much ribbon you want to use in your tree when choosing ornaments, stems, and sprays. You will need to make adjustments to this guide based on whether you are filling up the entire tree/all sides or if you are only filling up 3/4 of the tree because only 3/4 of the tree is showing due to it being in a corner location. How many ornaments do I need to decorate ALL SIDES of my tree? Ornaments can be anything other than a spray or stem. Mix and Match. Ornaments could include birds, ball ornaments, character ornaments, and more. Use 3/4 of the total below if you are only decorating 3/4 of your tree with the back in a corner. You may also consider using less than the amount below if you want to use more sprays and stems in place of ornaments. Keep in mind, if you are wanting ornaments larger than 10 inches, you don't need as many of them to fill up the same amount of space. Tree Height Light coverage where you can still see the tree. Keep in mind how many stems and sprays you want to use. Heavy coverage where most of the tree is covered. Ornament Sizes 6.5 ft 70 pieces 100 pieces 4-10 in 7.5 ft 105 pieces 135 pieces 4-10 in 9-10 ft 180 pieces 215 pieces 4-10 in How many sprays/stems do I need to decorate ALL SIDES of my tree? Feel free to mix and match. The below are estimated totals depending on your tree size. You may decide you want to use more ornaments in place of stems and sprays. Use what makes you happy. Tree Height Light coverage where you can still see the tree. Keep in mind how many ornaments you want to use. Heavy coverage where most of the tree is covered. Spray/Stem Sizes 6.5 ft 35 pieces 50 pieces 7-48 in 7.5 ft 45 pieces 60 pieces 7-48 in 9-10 ft 60 pieces 75 pieces 7-48 in How many rolls of ribbon do you I need to decorate my ENTIRE tree? The amount of ribbon depends on the tree's width and your technique. It also depends on if you want enough ribbon to make a bow as a tree topper, or if you are only wanting to weave the ribbon throughout your tree. The guide below is intended to help you have enough ribbon to weave throughout your tree. We suggest starting with 3 yards of ribbon for every foot of tree. For example, you will need around 22.5 yards for a standard Christmas tree. Adjust the length based on whether you want streamers and if you are planning to tuck the ribbon into the tree versus allowing it to cascade down the tree. Tree Height Ribbon Length 6.5 ft 19.5 yards 7.5 ft 22.5 yards 9-10 ft 27-30 yards
Caring for a Christmas Tree all season
November 17, 2025
We offer you fresh cut Christmas trees, each with a special name! These varieties of Christmas trees are fat, full and healthy. Below are some tips to assure your Christmas tree will stay fresh for the whole season: · Purchase a Tree Preservative to add to the water in your tree stand. This specially developed formula helps promote liquid absorption and needle retention. Contents include fiber softeners and essential nutrients and minerals to help maintain a fresher and safer Christmas tree. Natural evergreen fragrance in liquid preservative adds to the holiday experience. It is pet safe as well!  Provides nutrients to keep tree fresh Helps prolong needle retention Scented with natural evergreen oils When you get home, place your tree in its selected location and add tree preservative and water to fill the stand right away. The tree should be out of water for as little time as possible! 30 minutes to an hour is about the maximum time you want to allow. Make sure you check the water level in your stand daily for the first week or so. Your tree will absorb more water during this period. Don't worry if your tree slows down or even stops "drinking" water close to Christmas, this is a common occurrence. Once at home, close any A/C or heater vents close to where your tree is located. Otherwise, the air blowing on the tree will dry it out. Christmas trees look great framed in a big living room window, but the sunlight may contribute somewhat to branches drying out. Consider having a sheer curtain to spread across the window, and close it at least in warm, sunny days. Always be sure to turn off your lights when you are not at home or are going to bed, especially if you have incandescent lights. Newer LEDs are more expensive, but they last YEARS longer and have very little heat output, so they are much safer and more earth-friendly in a variety of ways. You may choose to put your lights on a timer. · We offer lighting and snow flocking services. If your tree is flocked, do not water it!
Cold protection
November 10, 2025
Most Louisiana landscapes can fool us into believing we live in the tropics. It’s true that some winters are mild and tropical plants survive, but severe freezes do occur and can be devastating to those tropicals in the landscape. All it takes is one night in the low 20s or teens to severely damage or kill many of the bright and beautiful tropicals. There’s no need stop planting tropicals in landscapes, but the best idea is to mix them with hardy plants so in the event of a severe freeze, the entire landscape is not wiped out. Tropicals will always be the most popular flowers and dramatic foliage for our intense summers. They just need to be protected when the temperatures drop. What are Hardy vs Tender plants? These two terms are used to describe a plant’s ability to tolerate the cold. If a plant will survive with no damage when the temperatures are 32 degrees and below, it’s a Hardy Plant. The level of hardiness varies by plant. Some plants can tolerate 15 degrees while a less hardy one may be damaged at 25 degrees. Commonly used Louisiana landscape plants (trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines & lawns) are generally hardy to 10-15 degrees, and won’t typically die in our winters. These hardy plants do not need much protection other than perhaps some mulch. Tender plants are those that are severely damaged or killed when temperatures are below 32 degrees. When these plants are left out without protection, even on nights when there is a brief temperature drop, there is a risk for damage. Many tender plants may survive by coming back from their lower trunk, roots, crown, or bulbs. Plant parts below the soil surface typically survive since our ground does not freeze. To assist both hardy and tender plants in the event of an oncoming freeze, make sure good care is given during the summer. Pruning and fertilizing trees, shrubs and ground covers should be avoided after September because it can stimulate late growth. How much damage occurs to a tender plant during a freeze can be a factor of where the plant is in the landscape. Place them in a more sheltered area that blocks the north wind and traps the sun’s heat. Planting in areas covered with overhang and tree canopies will also help. What are the types of freezes? Freezes can be characterized as radiational or advective. Radiational freezes occur on clear, calm nights. These freezes are considered generally light and mainly damage the foliage of tender plants, like tropicals. Covering plants during this type of freeze will significantly reduce damage. In an advective freeze, a drastic temperature drop occurs and windy conditions are normal. The temperatures tend to be very low, and will last longer, thus making protecting tender plants more difficult. Freezes that last 8 hours or more are particularly damaging. Frost- 30-32 degrees Plants will have little or no damage Light Freeze - 28-30 degrees Plants will have light damage, mostly to foliage Hard Freeze- mid 20s temps This will kill most tropical plants, and damage other tender plants Severe Freeze- low 20s temps This will most likely bring major damage or kill all tropical plants Catastrophic Freeze-temps in teens This will most likely kill most tropical plants What to do before a freeze? Water- If the soil is dry, water landscape plants thoroughly to help them deal better with the cold. Cold weather is often side-by-side with strong, dry wind. That wind may dry a plant out, causing damage. Watering helps prevent that. Cover- Smaller plants can be covered with cardboard boxes, and larger plants can be covered with fabric or another breathable material. The cover should extend to the ground and be sealed with stones or bricks. Any covering should be vented or removed on sunny days. During advective freezes, covering will need to be paired with a warm source, such as wrapping small Christmas lights around the base of plants. For plants that are too large to cover completely, wrap at least the trunk with an insulating material such as foam rubber or blankets. Even if the top of the plant dies, the plant may regrow from the surviving trunk. For palm trees, the trunk must be wrapped from the ground level to the base of the leaves. Mulch- Use a dry, loose material like pine straw or leaves. Note that mulch only protects what it covers. For example, mulch at the base of a bird-of-paradise will help protect the roots, but not the foliage. Mulch can be left at the plant’s base all winter. Move Inside- Move all tender plants in containers/hanging baskets into a warmer (above freezing) area, such as patio corner or garage. If plants remain outside, cover. If taken inside, provide as much light as possible.  What to do after a freeze? Move container plants back outside unless they will be inside for the winter. Remove any cover from plants to prevent excessive heat buildup if the next day is sunny. If a freeze occurs two or more nights in a row, the cover does not have to be completely removed, but air and light should be received by the plants. Do not prune anything for a week or more after a freeze. After a week, damaged growth or dead foliage on herbaceous plants may be pruned. If any tissue is oozy, mushy, slimy or stinks it should be removed. Make sure to prune prior to the spring, so any new growth is able to appear. Try scratching the bark of any plant with your fingernail. If the tissue underneath is green, it’s still alive. If it is brown, the branch is dead. Start at the top and work your way down to see how far the plant was killed. Remove all dead branches.