buyallseasons

Prevent Crape Myrtle Bark Scale & other Insect Infestations with Tree & Shrub Drench

Fri, 24 Apr 2026 20:44:19 GMT

The Tree & Shrub Drench by Fertilome is a “Must Do” product for your trees and shrub in Spring!

All your plants need is a once a year application to prevent things like insect infestations and Crape Myrtle Bark Scale. This is ideal for trees and shrubs such as Magnolias, Hollies, Azaleas, Oaks, Roses and More!

What is Crape Myrtle Bark Scale? It’s due to a recent (2024) invasive insect from Asia that is small and white or gray. They appear to only be affecting Crape Myrtles at this time, but in their native area, they affect a number of other plants. The Scale is a bark or felt scale due to the waxy coating on the insects. They will be found on the stems, large twigs, and trunks but rarely on the foliage.

How do you know if your Crape Myrtle is under attack? One of the first signs is the black sooty mold that is present from the large amounts of honeydew produced by these insects.

Control can be difficult and can require multiple applications to ensure successes. If the infestation is severe, it may take multiple applications for multiple years.

If you already have the issue, we recommend using Hi-Yield Dormant Spray during the tree’s dormant season. This has been found to be the most effective. Spray all the trunks and branches very thoroughly and the oil will suffocate the insects.
Next, spray when the insects are out. For this, we recommend using Horticultural Oil or Broad Spectrum Insecticide- both of which have shown to be effective. Spray then repeat at least once 10-14 days later.
The shells from the insect will remain on your plant, so scrape them off on a white sheet of paper then crush them to ensure they are dead.

The easiest application to do, however, is the preventative Tree & Shrub Drench by Fertilome.
Again, you only have to apply this once a year, and it’s worth the prevention!

To apply, simply mix it in a bucket and pour around the base of the plant.

May Gardening To Do List

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 18:30:53 GMT

It's time to change out tired, cool-season annuals with heat-loving summer annuals such as: Angelonia, pentas, portulaca, vinca & much more. Planting tropical sun lovers like hibiscus is ideal now, too. To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants after their first flower cycle is complete.

MAY TO DO LIST:

-Plant warm-season bedding plants. Vinca can now be planted for best results! Don’t know which warm-season bedding plants will be best for your area? Come visit us for a wide selection and knowledge to be successful!

-To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants.

-It’s a great time to plant a crape myrtle tree for great summer flowering.

-Prune & feed azaleas & camellias once their blooming has finished.

-Sow seeds for heat-loving annuals and watch them begin to grow! This is a fun kid project, too, once school is out.

-Now is the time to plant all kinds of summer-loving vegetables.

-Prune & shape all winter-flowering shrubs and vines.

-Mulch all garden beds well to help regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and keep weeds at bay. An excellent mulch to try, in addition to Grade ‘A’ Cypress or Cedar, is pine straw. To effectively suppress weeds, apply mulch 2 inches thick.

-When in the garden, wear a wide brim hat and apply sunscreen.

-Plants you had indoors for cool weather can now reside outside.

-Place houseplant containers in an area that receives bright shade- not direct sun.

-Don't forget to fill bird feeders with seed!

-Watch for insect problems on roses. Aphids may develop on tender new growth, thrips on flowers and cucumber beetles on foliage. Let us know and we'll set you up with the proper treatment.

-After spring bulbs finish flowering, wait until the foliage turns yellow before cutting it off. This is because food is being manufactured and stored for next year’s blooms.

Bougainvillea & Hibiscus

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 18:27:09 GMT

We all love the tropics- the bright colors and inviting tones! Bring that feeling into your garden with two of the best-looking tropical bloomers!

Bougainvilleas enjoy to be “root-bound”, meaning they are an excellent choice for a container or hanging basket! They flower the heaviest when the roots are slightly crowded in the container. If they are planted in the ground, you’ll notice they tend to stay more green.
If you have some from last year and want to encourage it to bloom, a simple tip is to “tip prune” off about ½ inch of the stem tips. This encourages more branching and ultimately more flowers!

Another fact about Bougainvilleas is they flower the heaviest when they are water-stressed. This may not make much sense to you because we like to care for our plants and give them drinks often. However, there are some plants, like these, that enjoy being more drought-tolerant. Think of them like a desert plant: they are under water-stress, then water pours into them and BOOM- they bloom! Withhold water for extended periods to force the plant into bloom. Our advice would be to wait until you see the leaves slightly wilting. At that point, it’s ready to receive a thorough watering session so it can perform for you!

Hibiscus bloom on new wood, so it’s always important to “tip prune” them back. Also, pinch off old flower buds to help the plant perform best with less “baggage.” Pests like aphids and white flies effect their blooms as well, so preventive measures work best. We can help provide you details.

One of the most common questions we get from concerned customers is that their Hibiscus’ leaves are yellow. Yellowing leaves is an indication of overwatering or underwatering. In the summer, it’s usually underwatering. Just like us, plants need lots of water in the hot summer months.

We have a homemade superbloom tonic when you want to kick-start your Bougainvillea and/or Hibiscus to bloom:

1 gallon of water
2 tablespoons of Fertilome all-purpose plant food
2 tablespoons of Fertilome Blooming & Rooting
2 tablespoons of Epom Salt

Fertilize with this mixture every other week for results!

When your Bougainvillea and/or Hibiscus are already blooming, and you want the blooms to continue, our recommendation is to maintain a slow-release fertilizer schedule, every 3 months during their growing season. Our best slow-release fertilizers formulated for these specific plants are HibisGain and BouGain.

As always, we want to help you know it to be able to grow it! We are always here to provide the education and products to ensure gardening success and a green thumb you can be proud of!
Please come visit us to DIG IT!

"Scent"sational Flowers & Plants for Springtime

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 18:22:36 GMT

If you love the beauty of a garden as well as sweet-smelling flowers and plants to give both your eyes and nose a Springtime delight, then check out these “nose”worthy specimens!

Gardenia:

Gardenias are one of the most iconic sweet smelling shrubs around, and we are lucky that they do so well in our climate. Their smell is often bottled for perfumes or added to extracts in soaps and lotions. Planting these at an entrance or around your outdoor entertaining area is sure to have your guests breathing in a deep breath to savoy the smell.

Butterfly Bush, Buddleia:

While there are many different varieties of Butterfly Bush with colors ranging from white to purple, pink, blue or even yellow, two things they all have in common are their honey-like fragrance and being a magnet to butterflies. In fact they are so rich in nectar, they are highly attractive to other beneficial insects and pollinators like bees, moths and hummingbirds, too. They are flowering shrubs that produce distinctive flowers starting in spring and lasting into fall.

Scented Geranium (Pelargonium Citronella):

This perennial that we’ve also nicknamed “Mosquito Plant/Shocker” has a strong citronella scent we find pleasant, but mosquitos hate. This is an ideal plant to banish the bug (mosquitoes), which is why we recommend planting this in your entertaining area, such as in container gardens. It’s also a great plant to crush the leaves and rub them on your skin while outdoors; offer some leaves to your company as a fun “party trick!” As a bonus, it blooms clusters of lavender-pink flowers adorned with deep crimson brush marks on the tops of their petals.

Rosemary:

Rosemary is an attractive perennial shrub with fragrant leaves. It’s also a popular culinary herb with a wonderful aroma and piney taste, which goes well with chicken, steak, pastas potatoes, or soups. In liquid form, its scent is enjoyed in soaps, diffusers and more! Rosemary also blooms small, sweet blue flowers.

Skinner’s Banana Shrub:

Is this a banana tree? Nope, it’s a magnolia, but its blooms smell just like bananas! It’s a worthwhile broadleaf evergreen shrub reaching heights of 10ft in full sun. The spring time flowers are small, cup-shaped and cream in color with a pleasing banana scent! This is a perfect plant for a border or screen hedge!

Citrus Trees:

Before you can pluck an orange or other citrus for your snack, the tree becomes covered in blooms! These blooms are white, fragrant sweet-smelling flowers with the buzz of pollinators in the air nearby!

Society Garlic:

These spring-blooming perennials produce stalks of star-shaped purple flowers. The plant gets its name from not only looking like garlic/chives, but smelling like garlic. However, it’s not garlic and is ornamental only, meaning to be enjoyed by your eyes and nose and not your taste buds! It’s a great plant for a full sun flower bed or container since it only reaches about a foot tall and wide. Plus, the garlic smell adds a twist of garden delight!

Specialty Roses:

“Take Time to Stop and Smell the Roses” is an idiom that means to relax and take time out to enjoy and appreciate the beauty of life. But, it’s also literal because the Specialty Roses smell absolutely heavenly. Planting a rose garden is a beautiful way to share the love of gardening with the love of beautiful blooms, beautiful scents and flowers worthy of being in a vase for interior enjoyment.

Lavender:

Lovely lavender adds a relaxing vibe and aroma to a garden or container. Lavender grows 1-3’ tall and has those long airy spikes with soft blue-violet flowers quintessential with the Mediterranean. The oils in the flowers are what give this herb its distinctive fragrance. When inhaled, lavender has calming properties that reduce anxiety, as well as being a gentle sedative for sleep. Its name derives from the Latin root “lavare,” which means “to wash,” because it was used in baths to purify the body and spirit.

Magnolia:

Plant Louisiana’s state flower as a show of culture as well as to enjoy the fragrant (and large) white flowers of this “famous face.” This evergreen tree is low maintenance and adaptable, not to mention making a strong southern statement. The blooms begin to burst open in spring & summer unleashing the sweet aroma of its flower. Don’t want a 40’+ tree in your front yard? The Little Gems, reaching only 12-14’ tall, offer a great alternative.

Confederate Jasmine:

These are some vines that really shine…or should we say “smell?!” Planting Confederate Jasmine along a fence, on a trellis, arbor or even a mailbox, adds a beautiful look and a strong sweet smell. This evergreen climber is known for its fragrant white star-shaped blooms, which will be more prolific when planted in full sun.

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

Spring Hydrangea Growing Guide

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 18:17:25 GMT

As spring finally awakens, there is no doubt that we will begin to see bursts of color throughout the landscape. While we are grateful for these spring flowers, we are also anxiously awaiting the return of one of our favorite blooms. The hydrangea, that graces us with its beauty all summer long will be making an appearance soon! So, what are the things we do to keep these beauties healthy and ready for bloom season?

Water

Hydrangeas should never dry out - especially during hot weather. Check your plant’s water needs regularly during the spring through summer, and water as needed.

Light

Depending on the variety, there are hydrangeas that grow well in whatever light conditions you have: full shade, partial shade and full sun. Most hydrangeas will grow well with 4-5 hours of sun and prefer morning sun to the hot afternoon sun.

Mulch

In an effort to preserve moisture to their shallow roots, hydrangeas should be mulched with 2-3 inches of shredded bark over their root zone.

Pruning
Pruning is primarily divided between 2 methods. It is imperative that you know the variety of your hydrangea so that it can be properly pruned. Pruning a hydrangea the wrong way may lead to the absence of flowers during the growing season.

Pruning Method One: Macrophylla, Oak Leaf & Serrata Hydrangeas

These types of hydrangeas typically bloom on ‘old wood’ – growth from the previous season. Flowers usually appear in June and July but the future season’s flower buds form on the stems during late summer & early fall. These hydrangeas should be pruned immediately after flowering so they can produce buds for the next season. Do not prune these hydrangeas in late fall, winter or spring.

Pruning Method Two: Arborescens and Paniculata Hydrangeas

The hydrangeas in this group flower on new wood – growth from the current season. Do not prune these hydrangea types in the late spring or summer since they are about to bloom on this year’s new growth. Pruning is typically done in early spring or late fall. However, spent blooms can be left on the plant in fall for winter interest. ‘Arborescens’ hydrangeas should be cut back 12”-18” from the ground in early spring to help prevent flopping during the upcoming season. ‘Panicales’ can be pruned to shape.

Exceptions

· All dead or broken branches and stems should be removed from the plant each year.

· If your hydrangea is outgrowing its space, it can be pruned, but that may mean forfeiting blooms for the short-term. It is always good to choose a hydrangea that can grow to its full size without needing to be pruned to fit the area.

· After 5+ years of age, one third of the living stems can be removed. This will revitalize the plant.

· ‘Deadheading’ spent flowers is not the same as ‘pruning’. It is okay to cut off spent blooms during the growing season for any type of hydrangea. However, be careful not to cut too much of the stem on macrophyllas and oakleaf varieties so buds will not be removed for the following year.

Endless Summer and other re-blooming varieties bloom on both ‘old’ and ‘new wood’.

Hydrangeas for Spring + Mom

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 18:11:19 GMT

With Mother's Day looming, why wait until the last minute!?!? Here at All Seasons Nursery we make Mother's Day shopping easy. Instead of giving mom a bouquet of cut flowers that will last a week, why not give her a plant that will give her cut flowers over and over!! Endless Summer Hydrangeas will bloom several times into the hotter months of summer. She can cut these huge blooms again and again. She can even change the color of the blooms by simply changing the soil pH from neutral or alkaline which will give her a pink bloom, to acidic which will give her a lavender to deep blue bloom.

Caring for Hydrangeas is relatively simple. When planting choose a spot that receives dappled sun to shade. These plants like moist, but not wet, soil so they will need to be watered regularly, especially as the temperature starts to rise. They are deciduous plants, which means in the winter time the foliage will turn brown after the first hard freeze. Simply strip the dead foliage off and leave the plant alone. You will see new buds forming in mid to late spring. You can use aluminum sulfate, coffee grinds, pine straw or Miracid to acidify the soil if your desired color of the bloom is lavender or blue. Leave the soil alone if you want it to be pink.

There are a few varieties in the Endless Summer series to choose from:

Try any variety of Hydrangea and you (AND MOM) will be more than delighted with the results. HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY!

Hydrangea 101

Hydrangeas are among the most popular of garden plants and also some of the most confusing. What color will the flowers be? How can I change colors? How can I use them for arrangements?

The first step in answering these questions is to determine what sort of hydrangea you have. Cone-shaped blooms occur on hardy hydrangeas. Brightly colored mophead (round) or lacecap (flat) flowers are usually bigleaf hydrangeas, although mountain hydrangeas also produce lacecap blooms. Bigleaf hydrangeas will have thicker, glossier foliage.

Only bigleaf and mountain hydrangea blooms are affected by soil pH, which affects the bloom color. The flowers of other hydrangeas will not change color. Blue flowers appear in more acidic soils, where aluminum is more available to the plant. In more basic soils, where aluminum is less available, the flowers will be pinker. Blooms can range from deep blue to purple to hot pink, with different varieties having a tendency to be either pinker or bluer. You can adjust the color of the blooms by adding aluminum sulfate to the soil for more blue flowers and lime to soils to encourage pink blooms. It may take a couple of seasons to see the desired color.

Many gardeners like to enjoy their hydrangeas year-round by cutting and drying them for arrangements. This is easy to do. First, cut the flowers when they are slightly past their peak. Next, place them in a vase and allow them to dry while in water. Drying them in water helps them to hold their shape and color as they dry.

Types of Hydrangeas:

· Mophead hydrangeas, or Hydrangea macrophyllas, have rounded, globe-like flower heads. Most prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, but avoid heavy shade, which can cause poor flowering. Generally speaking, the further north you live, the more sun mopheads can tolerate. Mops come in blue and pink, as well as white, lavender, and lilac

· Lacecaps have flattened, loosely arranged flower heads. Also known as H. macrophylla normalis, they have the same basic growing requirements as mopheads.

· H. serratas are a subspecies of the macrophyllas, and they’re smaller shrubs. Give them part shade, if you live in a sunny climate; elsewhere, they can take more sun.

· H. arborescens is sometimes called smooth or wild hydrangea. The best-known variety is ‘Annabelle’, which bears big, white blooms and flowers dependably. Give this one some shade, especially if you live where the summers are hot.

· H. quercifolia, or oakleaf hydrangea, has cone-shaped flower heads. It’s native to the southeastern U.S. and often droops when the sun bears down, but be careful not to overwater. It needs good drainage. Oakleafs can be huge, so look for a dwarf if space is limited. If planted in a sunny spot, it will develop gorgeous fall leaf color. Give it some shade if your climate is hot.

How to Care for Hydrangeas:

· For lots of beautiful flowers, choose a hydrangea that’s cold hardy in your garden zone. Check the plant tag to see if it requires sun or shade, so you can plant it in the right spot. Early summer and fall are the best times to plant.

· Put your hydrangea where you won’t have to prune it. These shrubs grow vigorously, and besides—they’re big and beautiful by nature.

· Plant in soil that drains easily, and add good organic material, if needed, to help loosen it.

· Don’t plant your hydrangea any deeper than it was growing in the pot.

· Avoid planting under trees, where the roots will compete for moisture and nutrients.

· Keep your hydrangea watered for the first couple of years, to help develop strong roots. But don’t let water stand around your plants. Oakleafs are especially prone to root rot when they are kept too wet.

· Fertilize once a year with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, or fertilize twice a year with 10-10-10. Commercial manure or compost is an organic alternative. Stop fertilizing by August to let your hydrangea get ready to go dormant.

Mother's Day Plant Must Haves

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 17:55:24 GMT

Shop for the one you love at the place she loves! We have HUNDREDS of gift ideas for your Mom, a special Mom in your life or even for you to put on your kids’ list! With the recent expansion, our footprint has gotten larger with more plants she will love, a large pavilion full of gift ideas for her home + garden, pottery in all sizes and colors, furniture and much more. Gift cards serve as a quick and easy gift, giving Mom the joy of shopping in any and all seasons for her favorites.

If you would like to purchase Mom a special plant, we have come up with a list of blooming beauties she would likely enjoy that we have now! Pick from pretty blooms like Mom, or plants in her favorite color family! The gift ideas are upon every turn; we invite you to stroll and shop!

Plant Mom a Container Garden:
We have SO MANY plants and pots, so dig Mom by planting her a custom container garden! We can help you mix the right plants for full sun or shade. Mix colors and textures, or stay with the same color- the possibilities are ready for you to DIG! Great full sun plants that do well in containers are pentas, vinca, salvias, angelonias, zinnas and many more. Great plants for Mom’s more shaded area are caladiums, begonias, torenias, impatiens and many more.
We even offer a potting service, so we can create it all for your Mom- even if you give us a call for a phone order, and even if you don’t live in town. We offer delivery services right to Mom’s door.

Clematis:
Clematis are gorgeous blooming vines with flowers often as large as your hand. These are tough perennials that like to keep their roots shaded, but otherwise can take the sun/partial sun. Several varieties are available in colors from white to bright purple. Since they like to climb, they are great on a trellis in a large pot or on a wall, on an arbor, a mailbox, etc!

Mandevillea/Bougainvillea/Hibiscus:
Bring Mom a slice of the tropics with these bright bloomers that put on a show from Spring all the way through summer (and since we *typically* have mild winters, through the winter season as well.)
Mandevilleas can climb a trellis, mailbox, arbor, etc, or add beauty to a container or landscape in the bush-form variety. With their trumpet-shaped flowers, hummingbirds enjoy them-especially the red ones!
Bougainvillea “blooms” are paper-thin, but their bright presence brings us straight to a tropical paradise. They are often in hanging baskets which brings a pop to a porch.
Hibiscus plants bloom in the brightest shades of red, orange, yellow, pink and even a mix of some! Blooms can even be double- you should see the peach color one we have now!
Cajun Hibiscus have our local Cajun personality with larger blooms, typically “loud” with ruffles, crazy colors and simply show-stopping.

Cajun Hibiscus:
We love our loud and proud Cajun Moms! Mimic her personality with a Cajun Hibiscus- the leaves and blooms are larger and showier than the traditional Hibiscus. A bonus to this gift is to select Mom a variety like “Cajun Maiden,” “Grand Mere” or “Love Song!” The names, and blooms, are beautiful and memorable- just like Mom!

Shasta Daisy:
Many Moms love the look of sweet, delicate daisies. The Shasta doesn’t disappoint. It mixes well with others in a full-sun container, or can be planted in mom’s garden. A fun thing for Mom to do with these is to cut the blooms, place them in a vase and use as a tabletop reminder of your Mother’s Day gift. This form of “cut flowers” lasts much longer than a store-bought bouquet.

Sunflower:
Few perennials embody the sun’s sunshine like a sunflower! The recognizable blooms are as radiant as Mom, and some varieties can grow as tall as her, too!

Herbs and Vegetables:
Does Mom love to cook? Give the gift of her ingredients! With fresh herbs, she can easily flavor your family’s favorites- like a pasta or a gumbo! Another herb gift idea we love is lavender! Lavender has stress-relieving benefits that Mom surly needs. Add to her vegetable garden or get her started. We can help pair you with everything she needs- like an easy raised bed (check out our Big Bag Bed product), organic soil amendments, vegetables from tomatoes to squash to melons to peppers of every spice level. Some can even be planted in a container for easy access!

Citrus, Fruit Trees, Berries:
Give Mom the gift of an orchard with results she will surely enjoy as healthy snacks, meal additions, and more!
We have several varieties of citrus, like lemons, oranges, limes and more. A popular apple you can find in the grocery store is the Fuji, and we have it in tree form for Mom to plant and enjoy without needing to go to the store.
Blueberries, blackberries, muscadine grapes and raspberries are fun to pick and enjoy as snacks and sides, plus Moms with youngin’s can plant for her kids to learn the love of gardening!

Butterfly Attracting Plants & Milkweed:
If Mom loves monarch butterflies, we have the milkweed they love. Milkweed is grown as a food source for the monarch caterpillar. They munch and begin their metamorphism- right in Mom’s garden. Pair milkweed with the plants butterflies enjoy- like lantana, salvia, coneflower, zinnia and more!

Butterfly Bush:
Speaking of butterflies, Buddleia, or Butterfly Bush is an all-time favorite butterfly magnet. A benefit for Mom is they have a sweet fragrance she will delight in having fill her garden while she watches butterflies flutter without being in a hurry.

Japanese Maple, like Seiryu:
Does Mom like unique trees that bring interest (and shade) to a back or front yard? You can’t go wrong with a Japanese Maple tree. The mature height, leaf and/or bark shade varies depending on the variety, but they all have a light, wispy look to them that makes them the focal point-much like Mom on Mother’s Day.

Drift or Knockout Rose:
Blooms on these low-growing shrub rose bushes pop in color and season- much like popcorn. In fact, we have a “Popcorn Drift Rose” variety! Colors are white, coral, red, pink, yellow and shades of those. These shrubs are ideal for landscapes since they stay low, add color and personality in several seasons. Much like the Shasta Daisies, Mom can clip the blooms for a vase for an alternate gift idea to the rose bouquet.

Hydrangeas:
Hydrangeas are an iconic look to a shady garden/landscape. Their large cluster-forming bloom heads bring a soft look when in the ground, and when used in fresh flower vases around the home. Hydrangeas in white may be Moms favorite, or she may want to change her soil pH level to go between the blue or pink Endless Summer varieties. The Summer Crush is a hot pink look to get Mom ready for summer, while the Limelight has hints of lime to the flower heads. Other varieties, such as Oak Leaf and Variegated are here as well and all will bring Mom a smile.

Confederate Jasmine:
If Mom has a trellis, mailbox, or structure, a confederate jasmine will look (and smell) delightful climbing. Staying evergreen all year, the sweet white blooms explode with a sweet fragrance throughout spring and summer.

Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow:
This plant is a perfect metaphor for your love for Mom: you loved her yesterday, you love her today and you will love her tomorrow. The blooms are purple, fading to lavender and to white all while new blooms are putting on the same show. It’s a lovely plant for a partial sun area.

Bird of Paradise:
If Mom spends her daydreams on a tropical beach, a Bird of Paradise sets the stage in her ground or large container. With exotic blooms of orange (and we have yellow, as well as white for indoors), she will plant a “staycaction!”

Gardenia:
With snow-white blooms resembling roses, Gardenias not only look as sweet as Mom, they smell as sweet as her too!
The strong fragrance carries on a breeze, and does well in ground or containers- especially near an entrance or frequent back-yard relaxing spot of Mom’s.

Passion Vine:
Another climbing option, but this one is for the Mom who enjoys something different, unusual, and a talking point! The blooms are a unique look, resembling something you would see when traveling to a rainforest. Butterflies are extra fond of the Red Passion Vine, which will bring another show to Mom’s garden!

Interior Plants:
It doesn’t matter if Mom works in an office, works from home, or simply enjoys the look of live plants in her home space: interior plants bring the outdoors in, calm moods and most importantly purify the air so Mom can stay healthy and happy. Our greenhouse is FULL of options with all shades of green, succulents, cacti, the Mom who likes a different look, or the Mom who loves a traditional Pothos Ivy, or the Mom who loves the trendy Peperomia or Fiddle Leaf Fig.

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

Beneficial Garden Bugs

Fri, 17 Apr 2026 17:42:48 GMT

Most people see insects in their garden and immediately think that they must take certain measures to get rid of them. But many of the insects that we may see can be extremely beneficial to the plants in our home gardens. Here are a few examples of beneficial insects and pests that can be spotted in the garden.

Beneficial Garden Bugs

Praying Mantis: (Predator)
Praying mantises have long necks and front arms, triangular heads, and elongated bodies that can resemble leaves or branches. They can camouflage themselves very well and can adapt to their surrounding colors. They are mostly known to eat insects like crickets, grasshoppers, spiders, frogs, and lizards.

Ladybugs: (Predator)
Ladybugs are rounded insects with shiny covered wings and their colors range from orange, red, yellow, and black. They can be seen with spots and without. Like the praying mantis, ladybugs are predators that feed on pest insects in the garden such as aphids and mites and other soft-bodied insects.

Butterflies: (Pollinator)
Butterflies are beautiful and elegant insects that are quite enjoyable to look at. There are many different species and they can have many different colors and some very interesting patterns. Besides being beautiful multi-colored insects, they can help our growing gardens. Butterflies are excellent pollinators. As butterflies move from flower to flower feeding on the nectar, pollen that has stuck to them is transported to the next flower they feed on.

Bees: (Pollinator)
Bees are another excellent pollinator. Honey is not the only benefit of bees. They are another extremely beneficial and necessary insect in the garden and crops. As they fly around in search of and feeding on the nectar of flowers, pollen gets attached to the hairs on their bodies and is transferred to another flower.

Pests

Pest insects can damage and even ruin our gardens. There are a variety of different pests that can feed on your home garden that you may have taken such diligent care of. These are just a few pests that you may encounter in some of your home gardens.

Aphids (Plant Lice):
This garden pest can be described as a small, soft bodied insect that is typically a yellowish-green color and can be both winged or wing-less. Aphids, which are a type of plant lice, can reproduce very quickly. You will see these garden pests dwelling on the underside of just about everything, but they tend to like vegetable plant leaves and stems such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and collard greens - typically, younger plants. Aphids are sucking insects that can wreak havoc on the leaves of your vegetable plants. They will feed on the leaves and can cause them to become curled and discolored.

Tomato Hornworm:
These insects affect tomato plants. The larva can be described as a long thick pale green worm with chalky streaks across its body. You will also notice small spots along the sides of their bodies and they have red or black spiky tails. The adult tomato hornworms are brownish gray moths that are decorated with orange spots on the abdomen. The eggs can be seen on the underneath of the tomato leaves and are greenish-yellow in color. The larvas of the tomato hornworm are fast eaters. They have been known to eat nearly an entire tomato plant in just a couple days.

Whiteflies:
Whiteflies can be a huge problem in late summer. They are very small, only a little bigger than a gnat and have small white wings. These pests tend to fly up and off of the plant when it is shaken or disturbed. These pests are also a sucking insect that will feed on the plant leaves, which can also cause the plant to look diseased. They can be seen on a wide variety of plants including Confederate roses and vegetables such as tomatoes, eggplants, okra, beans, and sweet potatoes, just to name a few.

Spring is in the Air: Air Plants

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 15:48:36 GMT

If you’re searching for the easiest plant to grow, air plants, or Tillandsia, should be on your list.

Did you know air plants are in the Bromeliad family? This is a larger family than the Broussards, with over 650 species that vary in size, texture, shape and color. They are native to the West Indies, Mexico and much of Central & South America. In that habitat, this unusual species attaches itself to rocks and trees using its roots. They get nutrients and water from the air, which is how they came to be known as air plants. The cool fact is, as its name implies, no soil is necessary for this plant to grow and thrive!

Even though there are so many varieties of air plants, they can fall into two different categories: Xeric and Mesic.

What are the Xeric types?
These air plants have flattened, silvery leaves that are covered with tiny hairs. These hairs assist them in absorbing moisture, which is how that have adapted to surviving desert conditions.

What are the Mesic Types?
These air plants boast darker green, smooth and often curly leaves that thrive in high-humidity rainforest conditions.

With such little maintenance requirements, air plants are not fussy and will adapt to your office or home conditions with minimal care! Here are some guidelines to keep them healthy and top-notch.

Light:

Air plants require plenty of light, so place them somewhere light streams though. However, direct sun will dry out their leaves quickly and can cause them to dehydrate and wilt. Therefore, placing them in the light of your office or kitchen windowsill is more idyllic than outside on your patio table where the sun shines directly.

Water:

Both types, Xeric and Mesic, of air plants should be soaked in clean room-temperature water for about 20 minutes. The Xeric types should be spritzed twice a week and soaked once a month. The Mesic types like to be spritzed every other day and once a week. Spritzing should also be done with clean, room-temperature water in a spray bottle. After soaking, shake off any water left on the plant and place it somewhere with good air circulation so it can dry quickly.

If you notice the leaves are beginning to wrinkle or roll, this is a sign of dehydration. Give them a good soaking session and spritz them more frequently so they can perk back up.

Temperature:

Our typical indoor temperatures are perfectly suitable for air plants, which makes them ideal for home and office décor. To be exact, they like temps ranging from 50-90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pruning:

Don’t fret because it is common for the outer leaves of an air plant to dry out and turn brown. You have not failed! These spent leaves can simply be removed. If the leaf tips show the same signs, you can cut off the tips and carry on with regular care. The plant will continue to grow and have a fine future.

April Gardening To Do List

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 20:45:10 GMT

-Prune azaleas, camellias, gardenias, quince, spirea, viburnum, wisteria, dogwood, hydrangeas, mock orange and redbuds immediately after they are finished blooming to encourage flowering for next year.

-Do not prune off foliage of spring-blooming bulbs until after the foliage has turned brown.

-Plant warm-season bedding plants.

-Fertilize shrubs using a general-purpose fertilizer.

-Fertilize azaleas and camellias after they bloom and again 6 weeks later with an acid “azalea fertilizer. This fertilizer can be used on other acid-loving plants, such as gardenias & hollies. Water the fertilizer in with the plant.

-Fertilize summer-blooming perennials, bulbs, tropical plants and bedding plants monthly with a granular product or twice a month with a water-soluble product.

-Mulch plants to reduce watering requirements, suppress weed growth and minimize soil temperature changes. Mulch should be applied up to 2'' thick to be effective.

-Remove faded blooms from bedding plants to encourage more flowers.

-Start seeds or plant transplants for kitchen gardens. Don't forget the herbs!

-Select and plant roses. We have a large selection now blooming!

-Release beneficial insects to organically control pests.

-Prune, feed and treat houseplants if needed. They may need to be watered more often as your home receives more sun. If leaves droop or wilt, water more.

-Fertilize established lawns.

-Harvest seeds from flower heads only after they have dried completely on the plant. Store dried seeds in paper bags or envelopes to prevent mold.

-Start seeds fast by soaking over night before planting the next day.

-Remove blooms from caladiums and coleus to encourage more foliage.

Cheers for Clematis

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 20:41:13 GMT

Clematis vines are unsurpassed for their profusion of colorful flowers. They offer a diverse range of flower color, size, and form. Flower colors range from blends of blue and red to yellow and white. Clematis vines can be used in both formal and natural landscapes. They provide the vertical element in a garden or can be left to ramble through other plants. They should be planted in an area that receives 5-6 hours of sunlight. Clematis vines require cool, damp soil, not wet. Clematis vines can be planted deep in the soil and benefit from having the crown buried 4" below the soil surface. Plant Clematis where the base of the plant receives some shade.

For Clematis care:

When you get it home, place it into the sunshine.

Clematis prefer to be grown DRY, so just spot water. Water only when plants are dry using a water soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 at a rate of 150 ppm constant liquid feed. A clear water irrigation is a good idea every 3rd or 4th watering.

Continue to tie plants to trellis-winding around trellis. Do not cut back as this will be where the next buds will appear. Plants will have to be tied every week to keep the nice appearance.

Pruning Your Clematis

Although pruning is not necessary, in order to achieve the best flowering from your clematis, they are routinely divided into the following three pruning categories:

Type 1. These grow directly from old stems, so prune right after all flowering is completed. Prune if space is limited or to remove dead and weak stems. Do not prune late in the season. Clematis can be pruned as short as 6" above the crown of the plant.

Type 2. Clematis typically flower before mid-June on stems from the previous season's wood. Pruning should be completed in late winter or early spring when buds begin to swell. Remove dead material above these swelling buds. Be sure all new growth is retied.

Type 3. This group blooms later and from new growth. They should be pruned in February or March as new leaf buds begin to show low on the plant. Remove all dead material above the buds at this time. This can be as short as 6" above the crown of the plant.

Spring Must Have Flowers and Shrubs

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 20:25:43 GMT

We all love when spring springs to life! The flower and shrub selections are endless- with all sizes, textures and colors that vibrate with the season. We invite you to stroll the garden center and see the wide range available. We put a list together of our “20 must haves” that we know you’ll dig this Spring!

Cajun Hibiscus:
It’s kick this list off with some of our favorite Cajuns! These locally-grown favorites are packed with Pop and Pizazz, much like us Cajuns! The blooms are stunning, with many being two-toned in color, double blooms, ruffled or even a combination of the three! Large, evergreen leaves match the large, sometimes 5’’ across flowers, all with names we can appreciate like the “Bayou Rose,” “Creole Lady” or “Cest Bon!”

Distylium:
These may just be the “best landscape plant you’ve never heard of” as the Southern Living Plant Collection labels this evergreen, compact-growing landscape shrub. The foliage is dense with layered branches giving landscapes an interesting look. To add to its allure, it’s also resistance to pests, heat and drought-tolerant and low maintenance!

Snow Girl Gardenia:
Despite the word “snow” in its name, this gardenia blooms all spring throughout summer. There is low to no maintenance required for this beautiful landscape or patio star that only reaches about 18-24’’ tall and 30-36’’ wide. We all love the gardenia’s fragrance, but this one has a sweet & small daisy-like look to pair with its tiny evergreen leaves. Pro tip: to maximize bloom, trim lightly just after the first blooms have finished.

NonStop Begonias:
Are they begonias or roses?! These are begonias, but they look like sweet roses! This Non-Stop variety is given its name due to its vigorous growth habit, bearing masses of pretty rose-like flowers in a range of colors including red, yellow, white, pink and even an orange/coral tone. It’s a perfect variety for something interesting in partial shade/sun containers!

Celosia:
These annuals are vibrant, stand out plants, and are known for their unique feathery or crested flower heads that are available in a variety of colors. Whether planted in a Spring-Summer flower bed as a border, or in a container, these are fun options as standalone varieties or planted mixed up! These are also great annuals to let kids have fun in gardening!

Bird of Paradise:
Resembling a tropical bird perched atop a rainforest plant, this landscape shrub is a distinctive showpiece. It’s an easy to grow tropical that enjoys full sun and flowers in early Spring. As a bonus, this plant loves our high humidity and heat, but it does not like the unusual cold snaps we have, so be sure to offer it protection.

Clematis:
Every flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you're probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to clematis? It’s easy to grow with many varieties of out of this world blooms, and is the most stunning climber we’ve ever known!

Coleus:
Who says flowers can have all the fun with color? These annuals are grown for their foliage, but their foliage is packed with POP! Coleus varieties number in the hundreds and each has a unique color and pattern to leaves that look amazing as a border plant or mixed in container gardens. Try one with lime green coloring planted next to one with magenta, green, and pink in an eye-catching pattern. Coleus is an excellent choice for shade areas, giving a dark area lots of color without the need for flowers!

Cupcake Azalea:
Your search for a new and truly colorful landscape plant ends here! This new “Bloom-a-thon” azalea boasts masses of single bright pink flowers all Spring, some sporadic blooms in Summer, and another wave in late summer through fall! They stay dwarf at only 1.5-2’ tall x 2.5-3’ wide. They are an excellent choice for a mass planting in a partial sun area.

Cuphea Honeybells:
Massive flower power in a hearty little plant, 'Honeybells' shrugs off high heat and continues in bloom all summer. It requires little in the way of care, just fertilize and water regularly. Best as garden edging and planted in pots and window boxes, since it is a trailing plant!
Also check out the Firecracker/Cigar Plant (Cuphea Ignea) has orange tubular flowers with red overtones and hot pink throats along the branches from early spring to late winter, which are interesting on close inspection. Reaching about 3’ x 3’, hummingbirds are attracted to their color and shape! Another Cuphea not to miss is the Funny Face variety, which has trumpet blooms resembling two eyes and a tongue sticking out!

Lime Sizzler Firebush:
A hummingbird attractor, Lime Sizzler™ Firebush features showy cymes of scarlet tubular flowers with orange overtones at the ends of the branches from late spring to mid-fall. It has attractive light green-variegated yellow foliage with hints of peach which emerges coppery-bronze in spring. The pointy leaves are highly ornamental and remain yellow throughout the winter.

Fignomenal Fig Tree:
“Fignomental” indeed, this self-fertile, low-maintenance dwarf fig tree is a high-yielding variety ideal for small spaces and container growing! It matures to only 28 inches tall and wide, and produces deep brown fruit with a sweet, reddish pulp. Fruit matures from late Spring through Fall.

Hollywood Hibiscus:
Plants made for the red carpet, the Hollywood Hibiscus series are tropical, low-maintenance Proven Winners shrubs known for oversized and bright blooms bringing you straight to Paradise. Thriving in full sun and heat (perfect for our summers), these are ideal for containers and/or landscapes that need a pop of color- Hollywood style!

Specialty Roses:
Roses in white, red, purple (yes! Check out the Heirloom) and shades of pink are always stunning in a garden or even cut flower arrangement. To take it up a notch, specialty roses like the Judy Garland, Pumpkin Patch, Wild Blue Yonder, Marilyn Monroe, Parade Day and George Burns (to name a few) give a POP and punch of unique color to a rose garden!

SunPatiens:

Continuous color in both sun and shade! These low-growing, bright bloomers are ideal in pots, baskets and landscapes as border plants! They don’t just tolerate full sun and high temperatures; they thrive in it. They’re the ideal plant for worry-free color; sun or shade, rain or shine, spring through fall.

Carolina Jessamine:
Take your garden higher with this stunning climbing shrub! In Spring, the Carolina Jessamine irrupts in bright yellow blooms and quickly covers the trellis, fence or arbor its attached to. It’s the state flower of South Carolina, thus its name. Its blooms are a trump-shape and are attractive to butterflies!

Forest Pansy Redbud:
Dormant all winter, in early Spring, magic happens! Delicate purple/pink flowers cover the branches, making it impossible not to be a showcase tree. New foliage appears scarlet-purple and matures to maroon. It will grow about 20’ tall with a 25’ wide canopy ideal for summer shade in the full sun!

Peggy Martin Rose:
This rose is a survivor. It’s also known as the “Katrina Rose” because it survived being submerged for 2 weeks after Hurricane Katrina. It’s actually an unnamed rose, but later named after the New Orleans gardener, Peggy Martin, whose home and property was under water after the storm in 2005. This is a remarkable climber that takes over any fence, wall, arbor or trellis, and covers it in pink roses without the threat of thorns.

Alonia Big Bicolor Angelona:
Angelonia are known as the “snapdragon” of the summer, since their tall spike-like flower blooms resemble that of a snapdragon. The Alonia series have flower blooms that fit the word “big” in their name! Their blooms are double/triple in size of the smaller Angelonia varieties. They are pollinator-friendly and heat-tolerant, making them one of our top summer annual choices!

Abutilon “Flowering Maple”:
Also nick-named the Chinese Lantern, likely due to their flowers have a papery consistency, this unique topiary is a tropical that is low-maintenance. It provides lots of blooms in the form of pendant bell-shaped flowers and dramatic maple shaped leaves. A happy Abutilon can bloom nearly non-stop from late Spring until the first frost.

Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

Planting Vegetables: Simple Way to Start

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 19:00:14 GMT

Planting vegetables is a satisfying way to enjoy the benefits of homegrown gardening, wholesome flavor, health benefits, and lots of Vitamin D!

If you’ve been mentally stuck in the mud and afraid to get going, here’s the best part- It’s NOT HARD to grow a garden! In fact, it’s pretty simple.

The first thing you need to know before you begin to grow is: Are you going to plant in a pot, a raised bed or in the ground? It’s up to you. It’s a personal preference. With the right love, you can grow anything in anyway.

It’s a safe to generalize all vegetable plants in our area enjoy a full sun spot. Lettuce may be a slight exception to this rule. Lettuce plants enjoy more morning sun, but the sun after 1pm can be intense for them. Water your vegetable plants as needed. What does this mean? If it rains, wait a day or two until they seem to be thirsty again. If there hasn’t been rain for a while, water every other day or every day in the heat and dry conditions. Watering in the morning is typically preferred. When watered at night, plants are more susceptible to funguses and snails/slugs looking for a damp environment.

“What soil do I use?” This is a very common, and excellent, question. Since you are planning to consume what you decide to grow, the soil needs to be organic.

If you are planting in the ground, either directly in the ground or in a raised bed, we recommend the Happy Frog Soil Conditioner mixed in with our bed builder product. This bag is full of finely-screened aged forest products, earthworm castings, and bat guano, as well as soil microbes to help increase root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake. There is also humic acid, which may increase the uptake of important micronutrients to your vegetable plants.

If you are planting in a container, we recommend either the Happy Frog Potting Mix or the Ocean Forest Potting Mix . Since your plants will be in containers, the roots can’t seek out nutrition in the ground, so you have to bring it to them from a potting mix. The Happy Frog mix is amended with soil microbes that can help improve root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake. The Ocean Forest Potting Mix is a powerhouse blend of aged forest products, sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings, bat guano, fish emulsion, and crab meal. Either mix would benefit your vegetable garden.

Now that you have your vegetable plants in their soil, when do you fertilize and what do we recommend? No matter which product you select for fertilizing, there will be a recommended dosage/timetable on the package. Two of our recommended fertilizers are Happy Frog Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer and Dr. Earth’s Home Grown Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer. Happy Frog ^® Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer is specifically formulated for use on all veggies, tomato varieties, soft fruits and berries. The nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in this blend supply the nutrition necessary to support the vegetative and flowering stages of plant growth. This fertilizer also contains calcium which helps prevent blossom end rot and builds stronger cell walls, boosting the plants ability to resist disease. Mycorrhizal fungi are included to help increase root efficiency, which may enhance nutrient uptake and water absorption. The Dr. Earth blend is handcrafted from feed grade ingredients. Enriched with organic nutrients found naturally in land plants, ocean plants, fish, fish bones and mined minerals from the earth. This nutritionally balanced formula promotes very rich and healthy soil equipped to grow the healthiest plants.

If insects begin to enjoy the vegetables that should be in your belly instead, we recommend applying any organic product containing Spinosad. You have the problems- we have the solutions!

Now that you know, you’re ready to grow! Get out there and DIG IT!

Flowers that Give You Bloom for your Buck

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 18:54:41 GMT

Want a showy garden but on a budget? Annuals will give you loads of color for one season, and now we are in Spring through Summer. Perennials will last 2-3, sometimes more seasons with an “intermission” of sorts usually in the fall-winter months. Check out these impressive and inexpensive blooms for both annual and perennial choices. We have LOADS more available, so DIG gardening and shop here this Spring!

Celosia (Annual)

This classic cutting-garden annual comes in shapes and sizes that most people have never even tried. There are the brainy-looking “crested” celosia, soft plumed varieties, and fluffy arrow-shaped types. All are superb for adding texture in the border, in a container or the vase.

Monarda/Bee Balm (Perennial)

If you have a big space to fill, bee balm will “bee” all the buzz. In most gardens, it spreads vigorously but not aggressively, making a towering clump of spiky crimson blooms that draw hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Chances are, you’ll be attracted to the fresh, minty scent as well — you can make a brightly flavored tea from the flowers and leaves.

Zinnia (Annual)

Zinnias are a “must-have” flower, easy to grow and impossibly cheerful. All spring & summer, you’ll be blown away by a rainbow of color that blooms its brains out. Flowers attract butterflies, and make excellent cut flower arrangements!

Salvias (Perennial)
There are hundreds of varieties of salvias in pinks, purples, whites, blues, and reds, which make a statement in any flowerbed, or container. The bees, butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist their constant flower spikes of densely packed tubular-shaped flowers.

Penta (Annual)

Pentas bloom non-stop throughout our hot summer, and what’s not to love about that? To add to their charm, their blooms are shaped like a five-pointed star. These clusters of color are also an attractor for pollinators. Whether you plant one color in mass as a border for a landscape, or mix the colors in a container garden, you will get pop after pop of color!

Black-Eyed Susans (Perennial)

These bright yellow, daisy-like flowers with dark centers, which gives them their name, bloom constantly in spring-summer. Each flowers is 2-3 inches white, and will sit upon 1-2’ tall stems. They attract birds and butterflies, and brings the trendy wildflower look to a flowerbed or container garden.

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

Houseplants, and Light, Humidity, Watering and Fertilizing

Fri, 20 Mar 2026 16:01:32 GMT

With houseplants, care is the number one question we get. Here are some answers for you!

Don’t take light lightly:

One of the first steps when you purchase a houseplant is to select the location where it will reside and determine the amount of light that location receives. It is a good idea to observe your chosen area for an entire day, noting the amount of light that area receives.

Plants that thrive in low light need 3-4hours of indirect light each day.
Low light plant options:

Arrowhead Plants
Chinese Evergreen
Lucky Bamboo
Monstera
Pothos
Snake Plant
Spider Plant
ZZ Plant

Plants that thrive in medium light need a bright room most of the day (yet out of direct sunlight.)
Medium light plant options:
Aluminum Plant
Anthurium
Bird’s Nest Fern
Boston Fern
Dieffenbachia
Philodendron
Prayer Plant
Rex Begonia
Peace Lily

Plants that thrive in high light love a south or southwest facing window where light will shine on them directly for most of the day.
High light plant options:
Croton
Ficus
Jade Plant
Norfolk Island Pine
Palms
Polka Dot Plant
Schefflera
Sago Palm
Succulents

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these particular plants in inventory at this time. Please call us at 337.264.1418 to check or contact us online if you are looking for something specific!

A word about watering…

Overwatering houseplants is the leading cause of plant failure.

Keep an eye out for dry soil in your houseplants. Check them frequently, especially during the winter. Water as necessary. As a general rule, most plants prefer the surface of the soil to dry slightly between watering.

Help with humidity…

Most tropical foliage plants will look their best with a boost of humidity. You can increase their humidity intake by running a cool-mist humidifier, misting them daily, placing them on a water filled pebble tray or giving them a weekly shower.

Facts on fertilizing…

Houseplants benefit from a feeding with a balanced fertilizer, labeled for houseplants, once a month- year round. Find options in our Plant Health Care room and/or talk to an associate!

Mulch Madness

Wed, 18 Mar 2026 14:21:53 GMT

Mulch helps plants and keeps soil healthy. All plants greatly benefit from mulching.

The application or re-application of mulch is important to provide your garden once per year. Cedar or cypress bark is recommended due to its resistance to rot and fade, and has the ability to stabilize soil in beds and retain moisture. Cedar also repels insects. Other grades of mulch are available, but you will find that they will fade and float away, thus not being as effective.

Here are some of the benefits :

· Conserving soil moisture

· Preventing crusty soil at the surface

· Maintaining the ideal soil temperature

· Reducing weed seed germination

· Reducing weed growth

· Preventing the splashing of soil fungus during rain and watering

· Lessening cold damage

· Slowing soil erosion

· Reducing soil compaction

· Adding a clean and beautiful look to a landscape

Following the LSU AgCenter's recommendation, we suggest mulching annual bedding plants and herbaceous perennials to about 1'' deep; shrubs to 2'' and trees 3-4'' deep.

Be careful not to use excessive amounts of mulch. If it is too deep around plants it creates health-related problems for plants. Research has shown that mulching deeper than 4'' is not healthy.

We recommend:

Cedar Mulch at first:

This is best to be used for brand new beds. It will lock everything in there without a runoff. Plants will stay where you planted them. All material and products will stay put. Ideally, create it to be about 2’’ thick. Natural Cedar oil is a insect repellent for an added benefit. This mulch is exceptionally long-lasting. This mulch suppresses weeds well.

However, don’t keep applying it : Cedar on top of cedar, on top of cedar. This creates a barrier where water won’t get through. When it's applied over and over, it binds very strongly. After the initial application, switch to Grade A Cypress mulch.

Grade A Cypress is fungus resistant for established beds, locks in moisture and temperature. When the soil is at a continued temperature, rather than going from one extreme to the other, it is more beneficial. This mulch also locks in nutrients and suppresses weeds well.

You can add new mulch to old mulch and do not have to use the same mulch material each time.

Soil Secrets

Fri, 06 Mar 2026 22:02:24 GMT

One of the top questions we get asked by customers is what soil we recommend for planting in the ground or in a container. We carry many options of soils, and agree that it can be overwhelming. Here are our recommendations:

Planting in the Ground:

Happy Frog Soil Conditioner

In every bag of Happy Frog Soil Conditioner you’ll find finely-screened aged forest products, earthworm castings, and bat guano, not to mention soil microbes to help increase root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake. There is also added humic acid, which may increase the uptake of important micronutrients to your plants.
This conditioner can be used to plant within your native soil, build up a bed, or even used as top dress mulch.

Planting in a Container:

Happy Frog Potting Mix

Your potted plants deserve the best. Their roots can’t seek out nutrition in the ground, so you have to bring it to
them. That’s why Happy Frog Potting Soil is amended with soil microbes that can help improve root efficiency and encourage nutrient uptake. Between the earthworm castings, bat guano, and aged forest products, your container plants have never felt so good.

Garden tip: Happy Frog Potting Soil is designed for container planting. Whether you’re growing a ficus in the dining room, a geranium on the patio, or a lemon tree on the deck, use our Potting Soil in your containers.

Ocean Forest Potting Mix

This potting mix is a powerhouse blend of aged forest products, sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings, bat guano, fish emulsion, and crab meal. Aged forest products, sandy loam, and sphagnum peat moss give Ocean Forest its light, aerated texture. Garden tip: Designed for containers and ready to use right out of the bag.

Strawberry Fields Potting Mix

Strawberry Fields ^® Fruiting & Flowering Potting Soil is designed to pump up your blooms, fruits and berries with no hang-ups.

Fafard Ultra and Pro Potting Mixes

These mix contains vermiculite, perlite, RESiLIENCE ^® , compost, bark and/or other forest products, Canadian sphagnum peat moss, dolomite lime and a wetting agent. RESiLIENCE ^® is an all-natural, water-soluble mineral offering gardeners real growing benefits. Numerous trials have shown that plants grown in RESiLIENCE ^® -enhanced mixes may exhibit:

· Earlier Flowering

· Better Root Growth

· Longer Time Before Wilting

· Increased Stem Diameter

· And Quicker Recovery from Infrequent Watering

The Power of Pollination

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 20:28:57 GMT

Spending time in the garden often involves shooing away bees, but have you ever stopped to think about the benefits that these and other garden pollinators provide to our environment?

Think back to elementary or middle school. You probably learned that a pollinator helps carry pollen from the male part of the flower to the female part of that or other flowers. Although some plants and flowers do not need insects or animals to aid in pollination, many do. Some common pollinators are bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, birds, flies and small mammals like bats.

Why is this important to us? According to the National Park Service, one out of every three bites of food you eat only exists because of these pollinators. These foods include fruits, vegetables, and seeds. Even the air we breathe is affected by pollination. Look around you. Those plants you see help to clean the air, supply oxygen, and feed wildlife. When you think of these things, it really puts the importance of pollinators into perspective.

What can you do to help your friendly neighborhood pollinators? Here are some great tips from The National Park Service. Although these things may seem small, they are a BIG help to birds, bees and other helpful creatures.

Plant native flowers that bloom at different times. Also, planting flowers of different sizes and colors in clumps as opposed to scattering them in your landscaping is beneficial to pollinators by making it easier for them to locate their lunch.
Give your pollinators a drink! A shallow dish of water placed on your deck or patio will help pollinators stay hydrated. Don't forget to partially submerge stones or rocks in the container so they have somewhere to rest while drinking. Otherwise they may drown.
Did you know that many plants that are called weeds are actually useful to pollinators? So you can take a break from pulling some of those weeds.
Limit pesticides. Before using a pesticide, ask yourself: Are flowers in bloom or are pollinators active during the pesticide application? Are there alternatives? We carry organic solutions to many gardening issues. Remember, pollinators can be harmed if they consume nectar or pollen that has come into contact with pesticides. Alternatively, you can help reduce the risk of exposure by applying pesticides at night when bees and other pollinators are not active.
Nesting and sheltering sites are always appreciated! Remember that different types of pollinators require different things. Some bees and pollinating beetles may use downed tree limbs and logs; many butterflies lay eggs and rear their young on host plants; a small patch of bare ground might serve ground-nesting bees. Potential nesting sites include trees (both living and dead), shrubs, brush piles, bare ground, and bee boxes.

Build a Backyard Sanctuary for Pollinators

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 20:25:29 GMT

Pollinators play an important role. In fact, they are essential in the eco system surviving. The simple truth is that we can’t live without them! Virtually all of the world’s seed plants need to be pollinated. Let’s celebrate pollinators and help them do their job, which benefits us most of all, by cultivating the specimens they need to thrive.

Butterflies:

Everyone loves to watch butterflies flutter from flower to flower. It brings us a sense of relaxation to watch a butterfly, and to know we have planted what they love brings accomplishment!

The most important thing to remember when creating a butterfly garden is to plant both nectar and host plants.
Providing host plants for caterpillars to feed on, you will have a front row seat to the metamorphosis process! The caterpillars will consume the host plants then become a chrysalis before the adult butterfly emerges looking for the nectar plants. Then, the females will lay the eggs to hatch into a caterpillar so the cycle can continue. It’s important to plant host plants and not be discouraged with caterpillars eating the plant. It’s usually only temporary!
Some host plant ideas are: Passionflower, Milkweed, Swamp Milkweed, Asters, Butterfly Weed, Dill, Hollyhock, Sassafras, Fennel, etc.

Nectar plants for the butterflies serve their purpose, and are beautiful in your space! There are so many choices, and they all pack a pop of color to enjoy all season! A great idea to cover a problem area while luring butterflies to your yard is to buy seeds and sprinkle them in that area. The seeds will germinate and create a lasting love for you, and the butterflies! If you don’t have room for a garden, hanging baskets will do the trick just as nicely.
Some great nectar plant ideas in shrubs are: abelias, butterfly bush, honeysuckle, spiraea, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: yarrow, butterfly weed, aster, daisy, cosmos, coneflower, joe-pye weed, sunflowers, salvias etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: lantana, zinnia, penta, marigold, verbena, geranium, portulaca, allysum, impatiens, etc.

One last important thing to note when planting your butterfly retreat is not to use any pesticides! You may be killing off the very insects you made the garden for. There are natural remedy options to repel harmful insects, like aphids. Talk to us in the Plant Health Care room to help point you in the right direction!

Bees:

As stated in the introduction, every garden requires pollinators, and bees are among the finest, and hardest working! Without bees, there would be limited flowers and far fewer fruits and vegetables to enjoy. In fact, about 30% of the food we all eat depends on the pollination of bees.

Besides planting flowers they enjoy, consider bringing more bees to your garden by providing a safe place for their shelter and to lay their eggs. Pollinator houses are trendy and compact enough to be part of your patio décor.

There are many bees that are great pollinators, such as the carpenter, mining, sweat and cellophane bees. However, some of the most well-known and easily identified bees are the honey and bumble bee. Both of these live in social colonies and are cavity nesters.

They require a constant supply of floral nectar close to their hive all summer long. Some of the biggest threats to the healthy and continued existence of the honey and bumble bee are their habitat loss.

Some great nectar plant ideas in trees and shrubs are: apple, redbud, willow, blackberry, blueberry, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: aster, bee balm, black-eyed Susans, goldenrod, joe-pye weed, penstemon, coneflower, savlias, stonecrop, sunflower, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: lantana, aster, catmint, alyssum, salvias, zinnias, lavender, marigolds, calendula, etc.

As with butterflies, keep the bees in your garden by eliminating chemical use, especially when plants are in flower.

Hummingbirds:

The ruby-throated hummingbirds zip across our Southern skies twice a year. They begin migrating from Mexico during the late winter and early spring to head up north for the summer. Then, once it’s fall again (usually August), they will make their way back south to Mexico.

Fun facts about hummingbirds:

They are the smallest bird in the world! They can beat their wings about 75 times per second! Wow! They can drink 8x their body weight, and also consume about 500 insects daily! Time to get their feeders and your yard ready to fuel them!

Hanging hummingbird feeders with sugar water attracts birds looking for a snack. Most feeders are red since this is the color proven to attract them. We sell safe nectar ready to hang to welcome these winged creatures! It’s important to note that if you’re DIYing your nectar, do not use red dye. Hanging a feeder from February through October is a good plan of action!

You can also charm hummingbirds to your yard with a selection of their favorite nectar-producing flowers. They are actually attracted to plants with color, and not plants with scent. Red is their choice in color, but any other bright colors like pink, purple, orange and yellow will also attract them. Another important factor to their favorite plants is the shape. Tubular-shaped flowers accommodate their long, narrow beaks.
Some great nectar plant ideas in shrubs are: azaleas, butterfly bush, abelias, bottle brush, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in vines are: honeysuckle, tangerine beauty crossvine, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in perennials are: bugleweed, bee balm, cardinal flower, columbine, coral bells, daylily, delphinium, gaura, hollyhock, hosta, phlox, gayfeather, rose mallow, cuphea , salvias, etc.
Some great nectar plant ideas in annuals are: fuchsia, penta, geranium, sage, nasturtium, petunia, pineapple sage, red salvia, zinnia, etc.

An important note, similar to the butterflies and bees, refrain from using insecticides when attracting hummingbirds. They rely on insects for protein, especially during the summer, so they’ll help to clean out your beds of pests!

For all pollinators, make sure you offer them an available water source, such as a birdbath!

Flowers that Attract Butterflies

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 20:07:53 GMT

Start planting now to make sure butterflies have your garden on their radar!

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

Butterfly bushes (Buddleia or Buddleja) are large, fast-growing shrubs whose flowers are irresistible to butterflies. Buddleias are easy-care plants and have a fragrant scent, making them delightful for an outdoor gathering.

Phlox

Phlox is a low-growing, spreading plant that forms a blanket of blooms all summer. Perennial varieties are great for a year-round groundcover.

Coneflower (Echinacea)

Coneflower is one of the best flowers for attracting butterflies. It adds a flashy touch of color to the late summer landscape. Plant echinacea among a low growing perennial bed where showy flowers will stand above the rest.

Lantana

Lantana produces profuse color, showing off clusters of tiny, eye-catching blooms in a variety of hues. Typically grown as an annual, it's an excellent low hedge or accent shrub that you can also train as a standard. It attracts butterflies and tolerates our heat.

Zinnia
Zinnias are an absolute butterfly magnet. They are rich with nectar, and butterflies will gladly float around a large patch of zinnias for hours each day. Deadhead to promote rebloom, and consider planting a dwarf variety such as ‘Profusion’, so they don’t flop over later in summer. The "Double" varieties are gorgeous, resembling a lion's mane, but butterflies can have trouble reaching the nectar.

Passion Flower
Passion flower is an exquisite and beautiful bloom, and it is also the host plant of the beautiful Gulf Fritillary. Simply put, putting a purple passion vine in your yard guarantees heavy interest from butterflies, year after year. The caterpillars will eat the foliage before sprouting into butterflies, but passion vine is vigorous enough to regrow from any damage. This vine does like to spread; it would be better alone on a fence or trellis than in a mixed bed with other perennials.

Black-Eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susan is one of the great wildflowers of North America and was one of the first to become a domesticated garden flower. Its showy golden yellow flower head with black centers are a visual delight.

Heliotrope

Heliotrope has a sweet, pungent scent that some liken to the smell of cherry pie. It is large flowered yet compact and has attractive, dark green foliage and a bushy habit.

Lavender

Lavender is a perennial favorite for gardeners and butterflies alike, producing tall, fragrant spikes of purple blooms. Hailing from the Mediterranean, it's drought-resistant and can take the heat.

Milkweed

The only food source of Monarch caterpillars and a preferred source of nectar for many butterfly species, including the adult Monarch, there are over 100 varieties of milkweeds in North America.

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

A type of milkweed, drought-tolerant butterfly weed isn’t picky about growing conditions. Give it a sunny spot, and you’ll be on your way to a flowery summer. Butterflies, bees and other pollinators can’t resist these bright orange blooms. This perennial pushes through soil in late spring, well after other plants are up and at ‘em.

Pincushion Flower

Pincushion Flower is an annual that is a member of the aster family. The plants grow easily from seed and with enough water and a little shade, will bloom from midsummer to any frost. We also have them all spring in the transplant form.

Agapanthus

Agapanthus comes to life in late summer. It features large, elegant, deep blue bell-shaped blooms that are clustered together on tall, sturdy stems. These showy flower heads stand well above the plant's foliage.

Aster

Aster is an herbaceous perennial that comes in a wide variety of colors. Its daisy-like flowers bloom in late summer and autumn in a sunny site.

Salvia

Salvia produces fragrant foliage and tall spikes of flowers, usually in shades of purple or white. Its nectar attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Sunflowers

Cheerful, colorful sunflowers attract both bees and butterflies to the garden.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod is a perennial with bright yellow flowers that add color to a late summer garden.

Penta

Butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist penta's flowers, which perch prettily atop deep green leaves. Plants grow 18 to 24 inches tall and 10 to 15 inches wide.

Joe-Pye Weed

This statuesque plant adds strong architectural interest to your flower border and attracts butterflies by the dozen. Because perennial foliage usually declines after the plants bloom, choosing a late-season bloomer such as Joe-Pye weed ensures you have lush, beautiful foliage all season long.

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

This stunning American wildflower loves moist, shady woodland areas and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds for miles around.

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

Is it an Annual or Perennial?

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 20:00:56 GMT

One of the most joyous parts of gardening is planting COLOR! Unique, pretty, fragrant and COLORful flowers. Now you probably know, or remember, that we generally categorize flowers into two different categories. Can you guess the two categories? The first one is pretty easy, “Annuals,” and the second one, what is it again? “Perennial!”

If you’re not completely sure on the difference between the two, let’s clear the air for you.

An annual plant can be started from seeds or by transplants, and its defining characteristic is that it lives its complete life cycle within one season, or possibly up to a year, and then dies.
An annual flower spends most of its energy producing flower and seeds for the purpose of reproduction. Hence why annual plants provide us with such striking and bold color in the garden. Depending on the type of plant, annuals can grow in full sun areas, full shade areas, in cold winter weather, and hot summer weather. So when selecting annual plants for Southeast Louisiana, make sure that you are choosing the right plant for the right location and for the right season.

A true perennial plant is one that completes its life cycle within a season, and goes through a period of dormancy where it stores energy in its roots, underground, to be able to produce foliage and flowers in the next season. In the simplest of terms, a perennial plant will “come back each year.” Similar to annuals, different perennials will perform better in different locations. Here in the Lafayette area, with our lack of cold temperatures and abundant rain through the winter, be sure to plant your perennials in a well-drained flower bed. If the bed holds water, or receives too much water through the winter months, there is a high chance that the roots of the plant will rot through the winter months when it is dormant.

Now that we are all clear on the difference between annual and perennial plants, we know that the thought of having ALL perennial plants that will ALWAYS come back year after year sounds amazing, but it is important to be realistic when planning out your flower beds. The MOST colorful, full and beautiful flower beds are not commonly filled with exclusively perennials. While several perennial plants provide beautiful color during their blooming period, annuals plants will almost always have more color for a longer period of time. So don’t be discouraged when you begin to shop for your flowers and find that all of the pretty colorful ones that you like the most are annuals.

Be open to mixing annuals and perennials together, and be open to having to replant some annuals once or twice a year.

What Do "Plant People" Mean?

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 19:58:19 GMT

What do "plant people" mean when they say...?

When they say texture?

Texture refers to the plant’s foliage. Plants with small or narrow leaves are considered to be finely textured. Those with large foliage are identified as ‘coarse.’ This isn’t a value judgment- both fine and coarse textures are important to creating a beautiful landscape.

When they talk about habit?

Habit is the general shape of a plant. Some plants are round, like a ball. Others may have a columnar shape or taller and full all around. There are plants that are narrow at their base and wider at the top and vice versa. Having a variety of habits in your garden gives it a nice variety, just like different sizes will.

When they look for contrast?

Contrast is what makes a design ‘pop.’ Bright flowers and foliage look even better when planted near a classic evergreen. Contrast finely textured and coarser plants to add interest to the garden, and a variety of habits and sizes to create movement. Plants can also contrast with building elements, such as soft, arching shrubs planted near a spare, concrete bench.

When they reference season of interest?

This is a fancy way of saying when a plant adds color to the garden. Some plants have flowers, others have colorful foliage. Newer varieties often re-bloom or have bright foliage all season, so they have multiple seasons of interest. Some plants’ season of interest is fall, when their foliage turns bright colors or they produce fruit. And don’t think that there aren’t any plants with winter interest-many shrubs have evergreen foliage or vivid bark that is at its showiest when temperatures are lowest.

When they specify dwarf?

Dwarf does not necessarily mean small. It means smaller than is typical for the species. Some dwarf varieties can still get pretty large, although nowhere near as large as the traditional variety. Landscape professionals and horticulturists like dwarf plants because they fit more easily into residential landscapes and require less pruning.

Lucky Flowers for Beginners

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 19:54:37 GMT

Don't say you have a brown thumb! Try these easy-to-grow, can't-kill beauties and watch your beginner's thumb turn green.

Sunflowers

Sunflower seeds are large and easy to handle, so they're great for children or beginner gardeners. You can find sunflower seeds in many different sizes and colors; they grow happily in sunny gardens. Plant a few seeds at a time over the course of several months to have nonstop blossoms from early summer through first frost. Even if you don't want to start from seed, we will be stocked with sunflowers for Spring and Summer!

Zinnia

Look for zinnias in almost every color except blue; they're also available in a variety of heights. The flowers may look like daisies or dahlias- even pom poms! Plant them in the sun and space them as directed on the seed packet or label; good air circulation helps prevent disease. These are also a butterfly magnet as a bonus!

Marigolds

Cheerful marigolds are easy to grow in sunny spots, brightening your garden with shades of yellow, red and gold as they bloom all summer long. African or American type marigolds grow 3 to 5 feet tall, but you can find shorter and more compact varieties.

Vinca

Vinca are the workhorse of the summer garden, outperforming all others in challenging, hot beds. The key to success with Vinca is knowing when to plant them. Those that are planted early while days are cool may be prone to root-borne fungus. Wait until daytime temperatures are in the upper 80s and at least 70 at night before planting to prevent infection. If a bed of Vinca does get fungus, plant something else there the next year to end the cycle.

Impatiens

Impatiens ask little more than a shady spot and enough water to keep them from wilting. Plant these pretty annuals when the weather is reliably warm. In recent years, many impatiens have succumbed to downy mildew.

Begonias

Tough, can't-kill summer begonias are great for hanging baskets, containers or garden beds. Give them partial sun or shade and they'll reward you with lots of lush color.

Pentas

Bring butterflies to your beginner's garden with Pentas in red, white, pink and/or purple. Pollinators absolutely love the blossoms, and the plants are absolutely trouble-free in full sun. Taller varieties are more vigorous and free-blooming, and look good in the back of flowerbeds for some height.

Daffodils

Plant daffodil bulbs and stand back. They'll burst into bloom each spring, filling your garden with color and fragrance. Give these hardy bulbs a sunny or partly sunny home in the garden or in containers.

Cosmos

Add cosmos plants to your garden or grow these daisy-like flowers from seeds. These annuals are so undemanding, they'll bloom even in poor soils. They like full sun (but appreciate afternoon shade in our hot climate) and tolerate drought once they're up and growing.

Geraniums

Great in window boxes, hanging baskets, pots or the garden, geraniums are low-maintenance plants. Grow these perky flowers for color from spring until frost; they prefer full sun, but may need some afternoon shade in our hot region, especially when we get "cookin" from June-August.

Morning Glories

To help morning glory seeds sprout, soak them in tepid water the night before you plant or file the hard seed coat to open it. Once they're started, morning glories can take care of themselves. But because they drop their seeds and self-sow readily, be careful where you plant them or you'll be pulling volunteers for years! To help control unwanted seedlings, mow, rake or heavily mulch the ground underneath the plants.

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia)

Blanket flowers (Gaillardia) are native wildflowers in parts of the U.S., and they grow robustly in full sun. These butterfly magnets bloom almost nonstop. They are aptly named, as a mass planting will so envelop the earth with blooms you won’t be able to see what’s beneath!

Daylilies

These sun-loving perennials bloom dependably in almost any kind of soil, as long as it drains easily. Best of all, you can divide them after a time and expand your garden. The dwarf, re-blooming ‘Stella’ is very popular, but the varieties of size and color they come in are staggering!

Please note All Seasons may or may not have these in stock. Please contact us to confirm their availability! You can call us at 337.264.1418 or contact us here.

Spring Hydrangea Guide

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 17:10:44 GMT

Water

Hydrangeas should never dry out - especially during hot weather. Check your plant’s water needs regularly during the spring through summer, and water as needed.

Light

Mulch

In an effort to preserve moisture to their shallow roots, hydrangeas should be mulched with 2-3 inches of shredded bark over their root zone.

Pruning Method One: Macrophylla, Oak Leaf & Serrata Hydrangeas

Pruning Method Two: Arborescens and Paniculata Hydrangeas

Exceptions

· All dead or broken branches and stems should be removed from the plant each year.

· After 5+ years of age, one third of the living stems can be removed. This will revitalize the plant.

Endless Summer and other re-blooming varieties bloom on both ‘old’ and ‘new wood’.

Amazing Azaleas

Fri, 20 Feb 2026 19:22:02 GMT

Azaleas seem to boldly announce the arrival of spring when we see their bright blooms appear all over town and neighborhoods.

Did you know that evergreen azaleas are primarily native to Japan and China?

One of the best effects in a landscape is to plant a mass of the same variety. The result is simply stunning when viewed from a distance. As they mature, they will grow together creating a single mass appropriate to the space. Large-growing varieties make the perfect privacy screen or backdrop for seasonal bedding plants.

The flowers azaleas produce come in a variety of colors, some even with stripes. The blooms can range from 1/2 to 5 inches across depending on the variety. Re-blooming varieties, such as the Encore, are very popular and recommended for continuous enjoyment. Encore Azaleas have a wide range of colors to choose from as well!

The location they are planted is important, but varies depending on the variety. In general, evergreen azaleas do best in partial shade. In sun, you may find that some of the colors do not last well, and are prone to sun damage. Also be careful because the evergreen azaleas planted in full sun are prone to lace bug, an insect pest that lives under the leaves and sucks out the chlorophyll leaving tiny white dots.

Azaleas prefer a moist, well-drained soil. If the soil is rich in organic matter, that's a plus!

They are welcomed for container plantings. You'll want to break up the root ball to encourage the roots to start growing and become well established. They are very shallow rooted, so set the plant at the same level or even a little higher than the soil. To maintain soil moisture, always mulch- even if planted in a container.

Be careful fertilizing and always read labels or talk to us if you're unsure. We recommend applying two weak applications spaced apart to avoid the risk of burning the delicate roots. Always fertilize after blooming, but avoid doing so in late summer and/or fall. If fertilized at this time, they will be discouraged from going dormant.

Pruning should be done after their blooming cycle is complete, before fall. Be careful to avoid removing any more than 1/3 of the branches because it could weaken the plant. Be careful also not to prune in fall because it may encourage late season growth vulnerable to winter damage. General pruning can be done in the spring and early summer to shape them. Avoid pruning after mid-July because that's when they begin forming their buds. You don't want to cut those!

If you'd like to share them with a friend, good news: they transplant easy! Be sure to use a root stimulator to avoid transplant shock and, yes, stimulate the roots.

Share the joy of amazing azaleas!

· Planting & Caring for Encore Azaleas

· Encore Azaleas are similar to traditional azaleas in that they require proper planting, watering and care to thrive. Here are a few simple guidelines to help your new plants grow to their full potential:

· Sun Exposure

· Encore Azaleas perform best in sites that offer anywhere from full sun to part shade. All day filtered sun or morning sun with afternoon shade are okay. A minimum of four hours of direct sunlight per day is required for proper blooms. Too much shade can result in skipped or significantly reduced bloom cycles.

· Check Soil Drainage

· Encore Azaleas grow best in a soil that is well-drained but moist. As with many other plants, they do not like a constantly soggy or wet soil, which can lead to root rot and other plant diseases. If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant your Encore Azaleas, it’s well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting. To test soil drainage, diiiig a hole 12" wide by 12" in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions . A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and could be a caution you might need to improve drainage , plant in a raised mound or bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet or boggy conditions.

· Spacing

· How you intend to use your Encore Azaleas will determine how far apart you space them . When planting a hedge, space plants the same width apart as the mature dimensions specify. This measurement should be taken from the center of one plant to the center of the other. If you want space between plants separate them by more than the mature width dimensions.

· Planting

· Dig a hole at a depth equal to the height and two to three times as wide as the container your Encore Azalea was growing in. Turn and break up the soil removed from the planting hole. Mix some compost, such as Root Zone Organic Planting Mix with the soil. This is especially important iiiiiiiif you have heavy clay soil. Remove your Encore Azalea from its container and carefully but firmly loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. Set the plant into the hole you've prepared, making sure the top of the root ball is slightly above the soil level. Pull your soil around the plant, water thoroughly and cover with a 1- to 1.5-inch layer of shredded wood mulch or pine straw.

. Water

Water your Encore Azalea deeply when you first plant it. During the first growing season keep the soil moist, but not wet, until winter. New azaleas will die quickly if the soil dries excessively, and they can develop root rot if the soil stays constantly soggy. So just keep the soil moist during the first growing season. Your Encore Azaleas should not need regular watering after the first year unless there are periods of excessive drought. Wilting new leaves are a sign your plants need a good deep soaking.

Fertilizer

Fertilize with the recommended levels of azalea food or a "goof proof' organic fertilizer such as Nitroganic soon after planting . After, feed after the first bloom cycle in spring. To avoid damage from an early frost in fall, cease feeding after August.

Pruning

Encore Azaleas do not have to be pruned, or their flowers deadheaded .That being said, they respond very well to pruning and, in fact, will benefit from it. Encore Azaleas are unique in that they bloom in the spring, summer and fall. So when is the best time to prune them? Unlike most other types of azaleas, which only set flower buds one time a year during fall and then bloom in spring, Encore Azaleas produce buds every time new growth is produced. So, pruning Encore Azaleas immediately after the spring bloom cycle will encourage more new growth, and consequently more flower buds. When pruning a healthy Encore Azalea, use sharp pair of bypass hand pruners to cut back branches that have outgrown the rest of the shrub and are spoiling the shape of the plant. Cut these branches back to a point just a couple or few inches above the main form of the plant. Make your cuts about an inch or so above a leaf.

Fall & Winter Planting Care: Encore Azaleas do well and are easier to establish when they are planted in fall. New roots produced in fall will help the azalea benefit from an early spring root flush so it will flourish in the next growing season. During the first winter, it's a good idea to cover your young azalea with insulating covering when temperatures are forecast to drop below 20 degrees F. As your Encore Azalea matures, it will need less winter care. Although less watering is necessary when planted during the fall or winter seasons ; do not allow the roots to become dry.

Tips to Grow your Best Tomatoes Ever

Fri, 13 Feb 2026 22:57:58 GMT

Love tomatoes? Get ready for your best harvest yet, thanks to these easy-grows-it tips.

Homegrown tomatoes deliver flavor and then some. Raising your own crop of sun-ripened 'maters is one of summer’s official best rewards. All it takes to grow outstanding tomatoes is attention to detail. Cover the basics, and you’ll be savoring a delicious harvest.

Choose the Right Varieties

Take time to select tomatoes that suit your growing conditions . Also, select tomatoes that work for how you intend to use them. One of the many benefits of our local garden center is we only stock plants that are proven to do well in our area.

You can find varieties for slicing, sauce making or salads. Lastly, choose varieties that deliver the flavor you crave. For instance, tomatoes exist that offer low acid, higher lycopene content, smoky overtones or intense sweetness.

Plant Deep

The best tomatoes come from plants with a strong root system. Give your plants a head-start on healthy roots by planting seedlings deep in the soil. Start by removing the lowest leaves on your seedling and burying the lower stem. Tomato stems produce roots easily. Any portion of the stem you bury will sprout roots that help nourish and support the fruit-laden plant.

Start the Season Early

An unspoken badge of honor always goes to the gardener with the earliest tomato. You can start seedlings indoors using a Grow Light, a perfect balance of the nutrient plants need in a “light bulb” form!

Stake Tomatoes

Keep tomato vines off the ground to protect ripening fruit from pests and diseases. Hoisting vines with cages or stakes also make it much easier to pick fruit. With tomatoes, disease is one of the top problems you’ll likely encounter. Staking and supporting vines increases airflow around leaves, which can help reduce disease outbreaks. Be sure to choose a tomato support that suits the mature size of the plant.

Water Tomatoes Properly

Tomato plants need consistent watering to yield the most healthy and flavorful fruit. When plants don’t get enough water, the result can be deformed or small tomatoes, and blossom end rot can develop (where the bottom of the tomato turns black). Because of how susceptible tomato plants are to fungus diseases, it’s best to water plants at ground level, using drip irrigation, soaker hoses or creative solutions like a tomato halo. This device holds three quarts of water, delivering it directly to the root zone of the plant, which encourages deep rooting.

Mulch Soil

It’s important to cover soil beneath tomatoes with a mulch of some kind, such as straw, grass clippings, compost or shredded leaves. Many tomato diseases spend part of their time living in soil. When rain hits the soil, particles splash up and can land on lower tomato leaves, leading to a disease outbreak. Covering soil is one way to help control tomato diseases. Mulch also helps the soil stay moist, which helps ensure a hefty tomato crop. One more great reason to mulch - it suppresses weeds.

Prune Tomatoes

Remove lower leaves on tomato plants to help reduce disease outbreaks. Wait until first tomatoes form, and remove leaves below the first fruit cluster. This helps prevent disease spores (living in soil) from splashing onto lower leaves during rainstorms. Combining a thick mulch with lower leaf pruning are two simple steps that bring big results toward improving your tomato harvest.

Pick Problem Tomatoes

It’s not unusual to visit your tomato patch and discover fruits with all kinds of problems . Heavy rain can cause tomatoes to crack as roots absorb so much water that it literally makes the tomatoes split their skins. This is a big problem with cherry tomatoes especially but it happens with all types. You might also discover tomatoes that critters have been nibbling. Squirrels, birds, deer, even turtles will chomp at ripening tomatoes, seeking moisture. Slugs, earwigs and stink bugs also attack tomatoes and break the skin. Anytime you have a tomato that’s damaged, the best tactic is to remove it from the garden. Bury it in your compost pile, toss it into a far part of your yard, carry it indoors to drop down the disposal — do whatever works for you. But definitely get rid of it. Problem fruits roll out the welcome mat to other pests (fruit flies, wildlife) and diseases. If possible, bury the problem tomatoes to try and contain any pest outbreaks.

Keep Watch for Pests

Try to visit your tomato plants at least every two days to keep tabs on ripening fruit and also inspect for pests. The tomato hornworm is one pest that can literally obliterate plants overnight. These caterpillars munch their way up and down a plant, making leaves disappear like a magician. They can be tough to spot. The easiest sign to watch for is frass (caterpillar poop), which resembles black peppercorns. If you see those, look beneath leaves for a hornworm, which usually hides during the day and feeds at night. Slugs also climb tomato plants to feast on fruits, and stinkbugs can wreak havoc too. With most of these pests, the best defense is to use gloved hands to knock the culprits into soapy water.

As with any plant, we offer the right product solutions for their health care! We have many organic options for you to battle the bugs (and diseases) so you can get back to growing your juicy tomatoes!

Plan your Spring Flowerbeds

Fri, 23 Jan 2026 20:36:28 GMT

Plan the number and size of flowerbeds so the maintenance they will require can be carried out-not just in spring, but through the hot summer months.

Trust us- we want you to plant to your heart’s content! But, be careful not to plant more beds than you have the time, physical ability or inclination to devote to their care and upkeep.

Think about the colors you want to use and their placement in the landscape before you come visit us. However, we can always help you with that if you’re not sure! We suggest you use masses of colors to maximize visual effects. Use colors that combine well with the background and that pleasantly harmonize or contrast with each other. Locate color in the landscape where you want to focus the viewer’s attention.

Evaluate the light conditions and determine if the bed is sunny (6 hours or more of direct sun) or shady (2-4 hours of direct sun) before you come visit us. That way, we can help you make the right selection for success. We want to help you choose the plants that will do well in the location where you intend to plant them.

Check the labels on the plants you consider using for how tall they will grow, since this is important to how you will use them. It’s not unusual for bedding plants to exceed the size on the tag in our area due to our long growing season and fertile soils. But, it’s a good guide!

Enrich flower beds with 2-4’’ of organic matter, such as compost, and general-purpose fertilizer (following package directions) thoroughly incorporated into the upper 8’’ of soil. The performance of bedding plants in your landscape depends a lot on how well you prepare the beds prior to planting.

After planting, apply about 2’’ of your favorite mulch to be icing on the cake!

Enjoy your flowerbed!

Timely Tips for Spring

Fri, 23 Jan 2026 20:19:46 GMT

Perennials - Cut remaining stems and leaves from last season including ornamental grasses, do this before new growth begins. Divide perennials like Hosta and ornamental grasses every three to five years to promote healthy plants and share with friends or create new plantings. Fertilize with Fertilome Blooming & Rooting - this is a premium flower food designed to supply the necessary nutrients to maximize blooms throughout the growing season.

Landscape Beds - Prune non-spring flowering shrubs before new growth begins to shape and encourage a more compact habit. Clean up all debris and apply Osmocote, just one feeding provides a constant supply of nutrients for 4 months and encourages a strong root system. Prevent weed growth before it starts with Hi-Yield Weed & Grass Stopper with Dimension under mulch to stop weeds for up to 4 months. This product works better on grassy weed seeds and lasts longer than Treflan and will not harm existing plants.

Rose Care - As new growth begins, prune all the injured stems from winter to about 12 inches. To prevent disease/fungus from over wintering, clean the rose bed by removing leaves and other debris. Feed now with any organic form of fertilizer that provides all the necessary nutrients in a non-burning, ready to use granular application that produces wonderful results. Vigorous growing roses are far less susceptible to pest attacks than those that are struggling.

Lawns – Apply Fertilome St Augustine Weed & Feed to fertilize your lawn/grass. This not only greens up the lawn but also prevents many other weeds before they start. Feeding with Fertilome St. Augustine Weed & Feed makes it strong so that it chokes unwanted weeds out.

Practice patience, Spring renewal has just begun!

Winter injury is showing up on many landscape plants, particularly broad-leaf evergreens like Azalea, Bottlebrush, Boxwood, Euonymus, and Mahonia. Brown leaves are a typical sign and as temperatures rise the damage will become even more apparent. Even though leaves look dead, the stems may be fine.

So what can you do? Our best advice, practice patience.

Wait until new growth appears (which could be well into April this year) before trimming. If you cannot wait until new growth starts, be sure you are only cutting off dead stems. You can tell by scratching the stem with your fingernail. If the internal part of the stem is still green there is a chance you will get new leaves. Dead brown leaves should fall off as new growth occurs.
For palms, let them yellow from the outside of the frond to the trunk. They are sending nutrients back to the trunk to preserve themselves. Cut off the brown fronds.

Best Products for Roses

Fri, 23 Jan 2026 20:14:37 GMT

When the calendar page turns to February, we all think of Roses! Roses say “love” with their beauty and fragrance. Planting roses now ensures vigorous blooms for Valentine’s Day and beyond. Whether you enjoy the soft, quintessential romantic tones of pinks, reds and whites or say your love loud with yellow or purple, we have the rose for your garden.

To hold hands with your new rose, here is a guide of products.

Please visit with a knowledgeable employee at our garden center to determine which of these is the best fit to help your rose garden take root and grow.

Bayer All-in-One Rose & Flower Care

This product’s exclusive 3-in-1 formula feeds and protects in one easy step. The fertilizer promotes strong roots and beautiful blooms. The insect control keeps small biting pests like Thrips, Aphids and others away. The disease control helps with black spot, powdery mildew, rust and Southern blight. One application of this will protect your roses for 6 weeks.

Fertilome Rose & Flower Food with Systemic Insecticide

This product is excellent in early Spring & early Fall. It will help to boost an attractive Spring & Fall display by promoting strong roots and beautiful blooms. With a systemic insect control built it, it will protects plants from damage by aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, scale among other pests. As a bonus- it boasts “rainproof protection” so no worries if you put down the product only for it to get wet. This will feed for up to 8 weeks and treats up to 32 rose bushes (or 200 sq ft) so get growing y’all!

Organic Options:

These options are favorable year-long fertilizers, which break down into soil to become part of the soil’s eco system. This helps to feed for a long time.

Espomoa Rose-Tone {Rose & Flower Food}

This product is designed to supply the necessary nutrients for growing prize-winning roses. It’s created from natural and organic plant food, but not containing any sledges or fillers. How does it work? The organics inside break down gradually to provide a long-lasting food reservoir throughout the growing season. There is also a proprietary blend of microbes that biologically enhances the mix, called Bio-Tone, thus resulting in superior plant growth.

Natural Guard by Fertilome {Rose & Flower Food}

This product is formulated to create more flowers that are larger and more vibrant. Inside this organic product is all natural options that can be used with confidence in your garden. Like Espoma’s Bio-Tone, this product has a similar ingredient “BIOZOME.” BIOZOME is a micro-nutrient fertilizer that contains all the essential micro-nutrients Boron, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Magnesium, Manganese, Molybdenum, Sulfur and Zinc.

Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer

This product is a liquid rose and flower fertilizer, which is absorbed much quicker and produces results much faster. It contains PreBiotic and ProMoisture Hydrate, which is to feed flowering plants naturally and promotes bigger, more abundant blooms. The PreBiotics (soluble sugars) provide the existing soil microbes with food and energy to multiply more quickly. ProMoisture Hydrate (Aloe vera) concentrate assists in the hydration of biotics in the soil by coating them with a patent-pending slimy layer to enhance mircrobial hydration.

Happy Frog Jump Start Fertilizer

This product is great for any new planting, including roses! It is specifically formulated to get new plantings established faster. This proprietary mix of fertilizers supplies phosphorus, which is necessary for root development. It also contains calcium, which builds stronger cell walls, boosting the plant’s ability to resist disease. Mycorrhizal fungi are included to help increase root efficiency, which may enhance nutrient uptake and water absorption.

Rose Types + Care

Fri, 23 Jan 2026 20:10:13 GMT

Roses enhance a garden with beauty & elegance. Now is the perfect time to plant bare root roses so they can come alive in your garden this spring. But, first you need to decide which genre best suits you! Here are the types of roses:

Hybrid Teas

Roses have been providing colorful displays, rich fragrances and beautiful cut flowers for years. They are exceptionally versatile, useful and will bring years of beauty to your home and garden. These roses are considered the 'Royalty' of the rose family. They are known for their large pointed buds and long, strong stems. Hybrid teas are the classic long stem rose. They are ideal as a cut flower, either alone or in an arrangement. Regular deadheading is recommended for best bloom.

Grandifloras

They are similar to the hybrid roses and bear large, hybrid-tea like flowers with the same form, but with cluster of blooms on each stem. They are tall, hardy and vigorous. Grandifloras have shorter stems than hybrids, but still make good cut flowers. They can easily be used for creating a mass of color in the landscape. Regular deadheading enhances performance.

Floribundas

This is now the second largest class of roses. They are shorter-growing than the hybrid teas, and bloom heavily, producing clusters of flowers from June till frost. Their flowers tend to be smaller than hybrid teas. Their lower heights make them ideal for walkways, borders, or in a bed with other roses such as hybrid teas and grandifloras. Periodic trimming keeps them at their best.

English

These are a cross between old and modern roses popularized by David Austin. Designed to be massed together they offer a charming old-fashioned form and rich fragrance.

Miniatures

Miniature roses are perfectly scaled, smaller versions of full-sized roses. They are almost always propagated and grown on their own roots, making them extremely winter hardy. They require more frequent watering, as their roots are smaller and not as deep into the soil. A general rule for fertilizing miniatures is a third as much, twice as often. They grow 6"-36" tall, and are ideal in containers, rock gardens or as edging plants.

Shrubs

This type of rose has flourished in popularity over recent years because of their hardiness and carefree maintenance. Shrub roses bloom profusely during the growing season and require minimal winter protection. Perfect for low borders, hedges and foundation plantings. Occasional trimming in late summer and winter is usually enough for these hardy plants.

Flower Carpet

Flower Carpet roses are ideal for borders. Be sure to leave sufficient space for these hardy, heavy bloomers.

Drift

Exceptionally hardy, spreading roses that quickly cover large spaces. Ideal for slopes or anywhere you want low-growing color that's attractive and practically carefree.

Climbers

Climbers are vigorous and easy to grow. Climbers produce very long canes that need to be anchored to a fence, trellis or other support. Give them plenty of room and fertilizer. A stunning look is planting a climbing rose and a clematis vine together for continuous flowering.

Roses have been providing colorful displays, rich fragrances and beautiful cut flowers for years. They are exceptionally versatile, useful and will bring years of beauty to your home and garden.

Now, you’ve selected what type is best for you and your garden. Here’s how to plant:

Site preparation

All roses require full sun (at least 4-6 hours per day). Locations that receive early morning sun offer good protection against mildew. Roses need well-drained soil. Good soil additives, like forest compost and peat, are ideal. Use 1/3 additive and 2/3 soil for your planting bed.

Planting

The hole should be dug twice as wide and 1 1/2 times as deep as the root ball of the rose. Build a mound of soil in the hole to support roots and to hold the plant at the proper height. The bud level should be at above the soil line to protect from rot. Fill soil around roots and water thoroughly. Apply 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.

Watering

During spring and fall roses should receive 1/2 gallon of water per day and 1 gallon a day during the hot summer days! Water roses well before going into winter. Use of a soaker hose is highly encouraged. These work by getting the water to the plants where they need it most, (the roots) and keeping the foliage as dry as possible. If you do water from above, do so early in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry. This will discourage fungal diseases.

Fertilization

Fertilize when roses begin to leaf out in the spring, around March 15, and again in mid-June. Water thoroughly after each fertilization. Do not fertilize after mid- August in this area.

Pruning

The first major pruning is done in spring when the last hard frost has passed. You will want to remove dead or diseased wood and any weak, damaged, or crossed branches. This should leave you with three to four healthy strong canes pencil size or larger. Make sure all cuts are done on an angle so water will run off canes instead of sitting on top. If you prune well in the spring, you may not have to prune too much the rest of the season. Deadhead hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas during the season. This is when you cut a finished bloom 1/4” above a fifth leaf on the outside of the cane. You will want to stop pruning by mid-September.

Create a Container Garden

Fri, 09 Jan 2026 16:07:24 GMT

Container gardening is a great way to enjoy all the pleasures of a garden without as much space, labor or time, but you don't have to sacrifice beauty. Plan your containers to use spillers, thrillers and fillers in dramatic combinations, and you'll have showstopping containers in no time.
A key tip is to make sure you know where your container will be placed (sun/shade/partial) so all the plants will “speak the same language.” For example, a shade-loving thriller like Cordyline doesn’t enjoy the sun like fillers Zinnia would. For the best success, pick plants that enjoy the same conditions! We are always here to help!

STEP 1: THRILLER
The “Thriller” should be the largest, most colorful or most unusual in the container. Your “Thriller” is what draws attention to your container, and they are placed in the center or back of the container you choose.

STEP 2: FILLER
The “Fillers” function is to fill the space between the “Spiller” and the “Thriller.” The “Filler” should not outshine the “Thriller,” but work as a bridge between the “Spiller” and the “Thriller.”

STEP 3: SPILLER

The “Spiller” adds character to the container and softens the edges. Plants suitable for “Spillers” should have a trailing growth habit. “Spillers” should be planted around the rim of your container.

Thrillers

A thriller is the centerpiece of a container, and is often a tall, dramatic plant that immediately draws the eye. Opt for unique plants with unexpected textures or structures to create that thrilling spotlight in any container. An alternative idea is to have the thriller be an evergreen that is a staple year-round, and add in fillers and spillers to match the season. The selection of thriller plants, both in evergreen or seasonal varieties, is immense and would take a nice long stroll around our Garden Center to decide. However, here are some top ideas to get you inspired…

Popular thriller plants include:

· Elephant ears

· Fountain grasses

· Boxwoods, like the Spiral

· Sky Pencil Holly

· Agave

· Agapanthus

· Junipers

· Salvia

· Foxtail Ferns

· Palms

· Bleeding hearts with use of a trellis

· Clematis with use of a trellis

· Dwarf Meyer Lemon Tree

· Lilies

· Canna Lily

· Cordyline

Fillers

Filler plants are smaller, mounding plants that literally fill in the excess space in a container, but they don't have to be boring. Look for colors, foliage shapes and textures that contrast well with your spillers and thrillers, and don't shy away from unusual options. The selection of filler plants, is immense (almost anything in our front color area) and would take a nice long stroll around our Garden Center to decide. However, here are some top ideas to get you inspired…

Great fillers include:

· Herbs

· Small low and mounding ornamental grasses, like Aztec

· Begonia

· Coleus

· Hostas

· Ferns

· Oxalis

· Any seasonal color like zinnia, marigolds, celosia, vinca, etc

Spillers

Spillers are trailing plants that deliberately spill over the edge of containers to create a more organic, living feel to the arrangement. They can make a small container seem much larger. The selection of filler plants, is immense and would take a nice long stroll around our Garden Center to decide. However, here are some top ideas to get you inspired…

Top spiller plants include:

· Sweet potato vines

· Clematis (could be a thriller also with the use of a trellis)

· Nasturtium

· Verbena

· Trailing Petunias

· Ivy

· Lysimachia (Golden Globes blooms a yellow flower)

· Delosperma/Ice Plant

· Sedum, such as Lemon Ball

· Trailing Vinca

· Creeping Fig

· Creeping Jenny

· Cuphea (Honeybells, White, Bat Face, Bleeding Heart)

No matter which spillers, thrillers or fillers you choose for containers, use each container as an opportunity to experiment with new and unique textures, colors or arrangements, and have fun choosing new plants to try. The more dramatic the arrangement, the more attention your amazing containers will get!

Tips for Planting Bulbs

Mon, 22 Sep 2025 16:34:37 GMT

Bulbs in Bulk - When purchasing bulbs in bulk, check the quality to make sure the bulbs are firm and not moldy or squishy.

Full Sun - For hyacinths, choose a site that gets full sun, though most daffodils can tolerate part shade.

Good Soil - Make sure soil is rich in organic matter and well drained because bulbs are highly susceptible to rot.

Make Them Pop - Give bulbs a dark green backdrop, such as an evergreen hedge, for making their colors pop.

Plant in Masses- Plant bulbs en masse, not in small clusters, to create the biggest impact.

Sweeps of Color- Plant in sweeping drifts of color, not in uniform rows, for a bigger visual punch.

New Heights- Consider hillsides for taking advantage of varying heights of flowers, making a planting bed seem larger.

Color Block- For the boldest effect, plant in masses of one color -- and one that complements adjacent plantings of spring annuals or blooming shrubs and trees.

Planting Bulbs- Save time – and your back – by placing bulbs, tip end up, on top of the planting bed, then cover them with a layer of several inches of soil, instead of digging individual holes for bulbs. Don’t worry if the bulbs tip over; they will work themselves upright.

Extend Growth- Extend the bulb bloom season by combining varieties that bloom early, mid- and late spring.

Contrasting Colors - Under plant beds of annuals, such as pansies or violas, with bulbs to create a complementary-color foil and extend the bloom season.

Mix Flowers- Combine container gardens of fall and winter annuals with bulbs for surprise additions next spring.

Avoid Mulch- Don’t mulch over bulb plantings because that layer of insulation withholds extra moisture in the soil and could cause bulbs to rot.

LSU Ag Center Horticulture Hints

Mon, 27 Jan 2025 18:38:20 GMT

Follow the below link to view the Winter Issue of LSU Ag Center's Horticulture Hints!

Click here to be directed to the Winter Issue of LSU Ag Center's Horticulture Hints!

Houseplants: Choosing the Right Indoor Greenery

Thu, 11 Jan 2024 15:48:05 GMT

Check out these top choice houseplants and our tips for keeping them lush and lovely.

Bromeliad

Bromeliads come in a variety of colors and sizes. They're known for their thick leaves and red flowering spikes, a feature that only comes once in its lifetime. Proper watering is key to the growth and well-being of bromeliads. When watered too much, the plant can suffer from root rot; however, when not watered enough, they can quickly dry out. Bromeliads thrive best in sunny rooms with indirect sunlight.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

Open up the pages of any home decor magazine and you're certain to find designer homes filled with fiddle leaf fig trees. These natural beauties are loved by designers for their sculptural qualities and their ability to grow more than eight feet tall. These trees thrive in areas with plenty of indirect sunlight and temperatures above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The best way to tell if a fiddle leaf tree needs water is to stick your finger into the soil. If the top of layer of soil is dry, but the lower layers are moist, that means it's in great shape.

Succulents

A beautiful way to dress up small surfaces around your home is with groupings of young succulents. They come in a variety of species and cost approximately $3 per plant. For succulents to thrive, they must be placed in rooms with direct sunlight and watered generously in the summer -- but allow the soil to dry out completely between watering. During the winter, you can water every other month.

Philodendrons

Tropical plants, especially philodendrons, are popular with designers due to the shape and large scale of their leaves. In order for philodendrons to flourish, they should live in spaces which receive indirect sunlight and offer plenty of shade. In order to ensure proper growth, keep their soil moist at all times and make sure the room's temperature remains above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Sansevierias

Sansevierias (Snake Plants) are some of the toughest plants you can find. Whether indoors, in your garden or on your balcony, these spiky beauties can put up with almost anything. They’re easy to grow, but there are a few things you should know. Easy does it with the watering – this is essential to Snake Plant care. You want to be careful not to overdo it because your plant will rot out. Always make sure the soil is almost completely dry before thoroughly watering again.

Dracaena
Dracaena plants, with their many varieties, are popular houseplants with origins in Madagascar and other Indian ocean islands. Generally, they reach a height of about three feet indoors, and have a bushy tree type of look. They all have glossy leaves that can grow up to one foot long and a couple of inches wide. They enjoy filtered indoor light (such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window) or a semi-shade spot is an ideal location. Never place a dracaena plant in direct sun, as the rays will scorch its foliage.

Maidenhair Fern

Maidenhair ferns are known for their flowing, feminine style. But unlike most ferns, the maidenhair is a bit more fickle and requires special care. These particular ferns require a shady environment with no direct sunlight or bright light, otherwise its leaves will quickly start to discolor. Since maidenhair ferns love humidity, place them on top of a watering tray to regulate the dampness of their environment, and be sure to spray frequently.

Peat Moss

Once houseplants are placed into their planters, camouflage the soil and fertilizer with a decorative top layer of Spanish or peat moss. The moss will trap escaping moisture, preventing plants from drying out too quickly. This top-coat isn't a perfect fit for all plants, though, because some plants prefer a more arid environment.

Louisiana: Vegetable Planting Calendar

Thu, 18 May 2023 12:46:19 GMT

Starting to plan the fall veggie garden? Or already elbows deep in it? Have you seen this handy informational sheet on planting and harvest dates from the Urban Farmer? This is a good guide to the last and first frost dates throughout the state, as well as a crop-by-crop calendar for the year. We typically go by zone 9 recommendations; of course winters like last year’s can always surprise, and may cause damage to crops in January.

Planting vegetable seeds or transplants at the correct time is important to getting the most out of your garden. Knowing your first and last frost dates will help you start your vegetable seeds at the right time.

Louisiana is in USDA plant hardiness zones 8-9.

Louisiana Last & First Frost Dates

*Based on statistics there is a 10% chance that frost will occur before or after these dates. Watch your local weather for more accurate dates.

Louisiana on average has approximately 250 days between the last and first frost. Using the planting schedules below will help you get the most out of your garden.

Zone 9 Planting Schedule:

View more Here

For the Birds: Common Feeder Birds in Acadiana

Thu, 18 May 2023 12:23:01 GMT

Year-round

Spring & Fall Migration

Summer Birds

Winter

The Joy of Bird Feeding

Thu, 18 May 2023 11:55:30 GMT

Why feed birds?

It takes time, money, effort, and dedication to consistently feed birds the most nutritious and most attractive foods. Why do we do it?

Enjoyment

The most obvious benefit is simple enjoyment their company can bring us- their colors, their songs, their behaviors. While birds will naturally visit any backyard, adding feeders and bird friendly plants will attract more species and keep them there longer.

Interacting with nature

For many urban birders, the birds they see at their feeders may be the only wild animals they have a chance to interact with. This can be an ideal activity for senior citizens, individuals with limited mobility, or young children to get their first exposure to nature. Children can enjoy the whole process, from buying the food, filling the feeders, and watching the birds.

Giving Back to Nature

While feeding the birds brings backyard birders many benefits, it also benefits the birds by replacing food sources that have destroyed by development. When homes are built and landscaped, birds lose important nesting spots, shelter, and natural food sources, but proper feeding and landscaping can help replace those resources. Our efforts to create inviting habitats in our yards and to provide food and water actually do make a difference.

Your own organic pest control

Birds eat much more than seed, suet, and nectar. Feeding birds in your backyard invites them to feast on the insects such as mosquitoes, snails, and spiders in your landscape.

Combined with Gardening

Truly useful habitat for the birds combines food, water, and places to raise their young. We can provide some food and water, but birds still have to have trees, bushes, perennials, annuals, and “wild places” to thrive.

Bird Feeders

With the right bird feeders, seed and other foods you can better attract birds.

Feeders are not “one size fits all”–different species are attracted to different designs.

A platform feeder or tray is any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread. Trays are a great first feeder and attract most species of feeder birds. Backyard birds find food by sight and if you offer foods on a tray with nothing to come between the birds and the food you make it especially easy. Birds prefer its ease of landing and wide space for scratching around for their favorite seed.

Tray feeders are great for viewing birds and their behavior; however, a tray feeder’s capacity is low and the food can get wet, it needs to be filled every day or so.

Even though one feeder can serve many species, a variety of feeders can entice even more birds.

A hopper feeder is a platform upon which walls and a roof are built, forming a “hopper” that protects seed against the weather. This feeder can hold a seed blend that attracts 80% of the local birds and last four or more days before refilling.

A suet feeder provides a very high energy food and is a favorite of woodpeckers. The best suet for bird feeding is a “suet blend cake” made with high-quality rendered beef kidney fat and added protein such as peanuts, nuts, and dried insects.

Tube feeders work well for sunflower hearts or for blends combining sunflower hearts, peanut pieces, and safflower. Tube feeders have smaller food openings and fewer places to perch. This is a good solution for too many doves or house sparrows at your feeder.

Cylinder feeders

Circular cakes called “cylinders hold seed together with a natural protein binder. Cylinders can contain seeds, suet, nuts, or various combinations of those ingredients. Cylinders are great all the time, but they are perfect when you go on vacation because there is always something to eat. Cylinder are exposed to rain so use smaller cakes or cut them in half crosswise and put out half at a time.

Nectar feeders are specially made to dispense nectar through small holes. Choose a feeder that is easy to take apart and clean, because the feeder should be washed or run through the dishwasher frequently.

Characteristics of feeders to consider include:

Visibility so birds will notice the new feeder and see the available seed
Appropriate feeding ports for seed type and desired bird species
Multiple perches or platforms to accommodate many birds comfortably
Feeder capacity and refill frequency expectations
Pest-resistant features, such as built-in baffles or no-chew construction
Suitability to the climate to keep seed dry, if needed
Durability and ease of maintenance and cleaning to keep the feeder in top shape
Demonstrate how the feeders meet those characteristics.

Types of seeds

Like people, birds have different preferences when it comes to food.

The most common type of seed offered at feeders in North America is black-oil sunflower seed . It is high in energy and has thin shells, making it the preferred food item for a wide variety of birds. Black-oil sunflower is among the favorite feeder foods of cardinals, chickadees, finches, and sparrows. Sunflower seeds mimic the seeds of trees including pine, spruce, fir, elm, and sweetgum, plus flower seeds of all sizes, and of course, sunflowers. Sunflower seeds without hulls are called chips, hearts, or kernels. Sunflower-loving birds split sunflower seeds (cadinals), pound them open (chickadees and titmice), or swallow them whole (doves).

Safflower seed is a whitish seed similar to sunflower in its amount of fat, protein, and calories. It is an excellent problem-solver when used alone in a feeder, because while blackbirds, European starlings, and many squirrels don’t like it, Northern Cardinals, chickadees, House Finches, Tufted Titmice, and many other sunflower-loving birds do. You may have to do a 5ifty-fifty blend of sunflower seeds and safflower seeds to introduce it.

White proso millet , a shiny round seed, is the best small seed to include in blends or offer alone. Such beautiful birds as Dark-eyed Juncos, White Crowned Sparrows, and Painted Buntings are attracted to millet. None of the other grains, such as milo, wheat, and canary seed, are liked as much as white millet, so look for blends that have white millet and none of those other grains.

Birds constantly seek out high-energy foods, and peanuts are one of the highest calorie foods they can find, second only to sunflower hearts.

Peanuts are fed to birds in a variety of forms, including peanuts in the shell, shelled peanuts, peanut pieces, and peanut hearts.

Peanuts in the shell are a challenge and only a few birds have the beak strength to open them. Blue Jays, Tufted Titmice, and many woodpeckers can crack holes in the shells. Jays love peanuts in the shell; they often cache peanuts for later retrieval. Chickadees and titmouse hold the peanuts in their feet and peck it into smaller bits.

If you use a no-mess blend such as sunflower chips, peanut pieces, and hulled white millet , you will avoid piles of shells on the ground or deck. With additions of tree nuts and dried fruit, you can broaden the appeal to even more birds.

Getting the right feeder and filling it with seeds is a great start. But are you providing the best space for the birds? There are many factors that that go into backyard birding and these are some of the common mistakes.

1 . Not providing clean water

Birds rely on food AND water from their favorite backyards. Providing a source of water along with your feeder will make your backyard a one-stop shop for birds. Empty and refill your bird bath every few days in both summer and winter.

2 . Using Bargain Basement Birdseed

The cheapest birdseed is often loaded with inexpensive fillers such as cracked corn, milo, oats, or wheat. These seeds and grains appeal to very few species, and other birds will toss the seed to the ground instead of eating it, causing a mess of sprouting weeds. Birders can save money on birdseed by choosing the types of seeds their birds prefer and only offering those good foods so none goes to waste.

3 . Using Only One Kind of Bird Feeder

Birds have different diet preferences, and different species prefer different feeder styles. Open feeders with trays or perches will attract a decent variety of birds, but to maximize bird feeding it is essential to use different feeders. Consider a mesh sock for goldfinches, nectar feeders for hummingbirds, suet feeders for woodpeckers, mealworm dishes for bluebirds, and jelly feeders for orioles.

4 . Not Cleaning Bird Feeders

Dry seed in feeders should be changed every 5-7 days and the feeders should be cleaned monthly. Hummingbird feeder nectar should be changed every two to three days, and cleaned weekly. Don’t overfill feeders until you know how much the birds will eat. Cleaning feeders regularly helps prevent bacteria that can be harmful to birds. If there is any moisture from rain or sprinklers, feeders should be cleaned more often. Clean feeders with hot soapy water or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to get rid of bacteria, fungi, or mold. Rinse thoroughly. Wear gloves.

5 . Not Feeding Winter Birds

Many novice birders assume it isn't necessary to feed birds in winter because there are no birds around. In fact, feeders can be even more critical to winter birds than they are during the summer when hatchlings need to be fed, and there are dozens of winter backyard birds, many of which aren't around in the summer, that will happily visit bird feeders for a healthy winter meal.

6 . Making Bad Hummingbird Nectar

The best way to attract hummingbirds is to use the right red feeder with clear hummingbird nectar. The red dye found in some homemade nectar or other brands can be harmful to hummingbirds. Never use any sweetener other than plain white sugar to make nectar. Choices such as honey, brown sugar, fruit juices, and artificial sweeteners do not provide the proper sugar concentration for hummingbird food, and they can produce mold that is deadly to the birds. Use a product that contains feeder fresh or nectar defender in your hummingbird nectar recipe. There are other ways to attract hummers. Plant salvias, pentas, cannas, bee balm, porter weed, and other hummingbird friendly plants to make your garden a hummingbird haven.

7 . Not providing shelter

Birds find comfort in natural shelter from shrubs, trees, and bushes.This provides cover, protection against predators, and nesting areas. Make sure trees and taller shrubbery aren’t too close to feeders because this can give cats an advantage.

8 . Letting Feeders Get Empty

Birds can be forgiving if a feeder is empty for a few days, but a feeder that is consistently empty won't attract birds. Wild birds won't starve if feeders are empty since they get most of their food from natural sources, but they also won't return to an unreliable food source. Refilling feeders more promptly will attract a wider variety of birds in every season and will help keep the feeder clean and in good repair. A seed cylinder is a good choice if your will be out of town a few days.

9 . Ignoring Natural Bird Food Sources

Feeding birds does not have to mean putting out multiple bird feeders and spending money on expensive seed, not to mention the time and effort to fill and clean feeders. Birders who avoid natural foods such as fruit trees or nectar-producing flowers, or who kill insects that birds can feed on, are depriving birds of the most nutritious, easiest, and most economical food sources available.

10 . Not Protecting Bird Feeders

There are many other forms of wildlife that will raid feeders before birds can even get a chance to have a meal. Raccoons, deer, squirrels, rats, and even bears will snack at feeders, often depleting the seed supply or even breaking the feeders without letting any birds get a bite. At the same time, unprotected feeders also expose birds to predators when their senses are dulled by feeding.

11 . Storing Seed Carelessly

Birdseed does have a long shelf life, but only if stored properly. Seed that isn't stored well can spoil and be invaded by pests such as mice, rats, larvae, silverfish, earwigs, or moths. As seed gets old and dries out, it is also less nutritious and will not attract as many birds. If water gets into the seed, mold can grow that can make birds sick and the strong smell may attract even more unwanted pests.

In the Zone: An Article on Plant Growing Zones

Thu, 18 May 2023 11:31:28 GMT

Have you gone to a nursery to purchase a plant only to be confused by the zone indicated? Usually the zone on the label is the plant hardiness zone, but it is becoming common to include heat zones.

First, let’s discuss plant hardiness zones. This set of numbers is about minimum temperatures a plant can withstand in winter. It does not include information for annuals. The plant hardiness guide was developed by the USDA and has been revised many times. The most current revision was in 2012 and was based upon weather data collected from 1976–2005.The U.S. is divided into 11 planting zones of 10obands. Each planting zone is further subdivided into “a” and “b”, representing 5o bands. We live in zone [9], with minimum temperatures ranging from [20-30oF]. Our subzone is “a”, the coolest portion of zone [9]. We can expect minimum temperatures of [20-25oF].This does not consider unusually harsh winters or weather patterns. It is interesting to note that other areas sharing our zone include England and [Oregon State]. Clearly something else is at work here!

Most areas of our country are more interested in minimum temperatures. However, we are more concerned with maximum temperatures of summer. England and Washington State have cooler summers than ours. Plants grown successfully in those areas reflect the cooler summers they enjoy. Another zone map not so widely used, but important for us, is the Heat Zone Map developed by the American Horticultural Society (AHS). It is designed to reflect days with temperatures over 86oF in a given zone. This is the temperature when plants begin to suffer heat damage. Have you noticed how much happier our plants are with the onset of fall?

Heat stress is more subtle than cold stress when a plant simply dies. We notice heat stress when plants stop growing, develop pale leaves, and become more susceptible to pests. So what is our heat zone? The AHS map shows that the western third of Lincoln Parish is in zone 9 (120-150 days over 86o) and the eastern two-thirds is in zone 8 (90-120 days over 86o). Temperatures were analyzed from 1974-1995 from each area of the US. Cities tend to be warmer than rural areas. There are 12 plant heat zones in the U. S. Incidentally, the heat zone for Seattle and Washington State, is, meaning they can expect to have one day with temperatures over 86o.

This information is meant only as a rough guide since many factors may influence what actually occurs in a given area. Microclimates can exist within any of the zones. Microclimates may affect your planting area by 1-2 zones. Are you planting close to a brick or concrete wall? Are you in a valley or on top of a hill? To determine your microclimate actually measure temperatures and compare to other areas of your garden.

If you look up growth zones for Chrysanthemums you might see this series of numbers: 4-10, 12-1.

The first two numbers indicate the plant hardiness range, with the first being the coolest; the second set is the heat range with the first being the warmest. We know chrysanthemums grow in our area and this is indicated since our hardiness range of [9] is between 4 and 10. Our heat zone is [9] which falls within the range of 12-1. We can expect this plant to grow well in our area if all other growth requirements are met.

Plant hardiness and heat zones are tools to give a rough estimate of a plant’s ability to thrive in a given area. The hardiness zones do not give us information about maximum temperatures, day-length, soil moisture, or microclimates. Use these numbers as guides to enhance your enjoyment of gardening!

Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here . Edited to reflect the Lafayette Parish Heat and Hardiness Zones!