Fall is here, and we are so excited to see fall favorite plants back in the garden center, especially several varieties of the Croton! Crotons create an instant "It's Fall" look in your home, garden, landscape, and even porch displays! The tropical croton (Codaeum variegatum) is the cure Louisiana landscapes needing a jolt of fall color. Though they come in many, many varieties, the classic croton that shows the most color is the popular Petra Croton. All varieties will show many shades of orange, yellow, and reds, including burgundy and almost purple in some types. There are a few tips with understanding how to properly and effectively use crotons in the landscape, or as potted plants for fall décor. First of all, crotons are fairly tropical plants, and have a cold hardiness somewhat similar to tropical hibiscus. Gardeners had become confident of their year-round durability after a period of mild winters in the 90’s and early 2000’s, but most of the past several years have been much too cold for a croton to endure without protection. Those who want to plant crotons outdoors and keep them from year to year should plant in a sheltered, south-facing location, and be prepared to bury them under pine straw and/or cover with frost blankets. Secondly, crotons are not especially fond of wet feet, and moisture will be much more of a problem in heavy, clay soils. Any crotons planted in the ground should be put in raised beds, or at least beds that have been heavily amended with a planting mix. Potting soil is also an acceptable amendment for annual plantings, as it is typically full of perlite, and makes an ideal substrate for not only crotons, but other annuals requiring excellent drainage, such as dianthus, pansies, or cyclamen (which will be coming a little later as temps cool). Crotons should only be watered when they are pretty much dry. It is acceptable to look for early signs of wilt before watering your croton for the first time, as the frequency of watering can vary widely based on environmental factors such as wind, sun, soil type and container size, etc. Another consideration for crotons is the right light. Crotons will show the best color with plenty of sun, but very exposed locations, especially long afternoon exposures, can almost be too much, and will cause leaves to be somewhat washed-out, and leads to more likely scorching from the combination of drought and sun exposure. Keep in mind that crotons like to be dry, but if you wait too long to water and it is in hot afternoon sun, the result will be brownish scalding on the upper leaf surfaces. Deep shade certainly keeps these beauties from burning, but the variegated colorings of the leaves will darken and the plants will be much less vibrant. I think that filtered light, or partial sun exposure, is ideal for these plants. Crotons make excellent container plants, and can even be brought in for winter and grown as houseplants! Container plantings are usually much more insulated from the diseases and headache associated with overwatering and heavy rains, especially if a light mix for indoor and tropical plants is used. Crotons are okay with less than full sun, and will certainly be happy for a few months indoors, especially if given a bright window to grow in our set outside on warm winter days. Crotons are basically grown for their foliage, and should be given balanced fertilizer, or fertilizers containing more nitrogen, such as Osmocote. Fertilizing should be done in early fall, especially if plants are expected to stay outdoors over the winter. Any fertilizing after early October should be achieved with a slow-release organic source, such as Blood Meal. These plants are fairly slow growing, so pruning should be minimal, but never prune any outdoor plants late in the fall. Cutting will stimulate new growth, and new growth will be much more sensitive to drops in temperature than mature stems. If you’re trying to keep a croton’s growth to a certain height, trim at a point somewhat lower on the stem. The plant will typically sprout new growth from where it is cut, so plan accordingly, and trim down below this, so that new growth will not undo the intended size reduction.  We have many more than the common varieties. Come over to check out some of these unusual and striking varieties.

 Fall Is the Best Time to Plant Citrus Trees in Lafayette, Louisiana If you’ve been thinking about growing your own satsumas, lemons, oranges, kumquats, or other citrus, fall is one of the best times to plant citrus trees in South Louisiana . At All Seasons Nursery in Lafayette, Louisiana , fall is one of our favorite planting seasons. Cooler temperatures make working in the garden more enjoyable, and they also give newly planted trees an opportunity to establish their roots before the intense heat of another Louisiana summer. Whether you're planting your first fruit tree or building your own backyard orchard, now is a great time to get growing! Why Plant Citrus Trees in the Fall in Louisiana? If you're wondering when to plant citrus trees in Louisiana , fall is an excellent time to do it. Our hot, humid Lafayette summers can put additional stress on newly planted trees. By planting citrus during the cooler fall months, you give the tree time to begin developing a healthy root system without immediately facing extreme summer temperatures. The soil can remain warm even as our air temperatures begin to cool, creating favorable conditions for root establishment. Plant this fall, care for your tree throughout winter and spring, and it can be better established by the time summer returns. Best Citrus Trees for South Louisiana One reason we love growing citrus in Louisiana is the variety! When choosing a tree, consider the amount of space and sunlight you have as well as the type of fruit you want to harvest. Some popular citrus choices for Lafayette and South Louisiana gardens include: Satsuma Trees – A Louisiana favorite known for sweet, easy-to-peel fruit. Lemon Trees – A versatile backyard addition for fresh lemons for cooking, baking, drinks, and more. Orange Trees – A classic choice with several varieties available for home gardens. Kumquat Trees – Beautiful landscape trees that produce small, flavorful fruit. Lime Trees – Great for fresh fruit, although some varieties may require additional protection during cold weather. Calamondin Trees – Attractive citrus trees producing small, tart fruit and a great option to explore for patios and containers. Availability and varieties can change throughout the season, so visit All Seasons Nursery in Lafayette to see what's currently in stock. Where Should You Plant a Citrus Tree? Location matters! Citrus trees perform best with plenty of direct sunlight. Choose an area of your yard that receives good sun throughout the day and has well-draining soil . Drainage is especially important in South Louisiana. Avoid planting citrus in low areas where water regularly collects after heavy rain. Citrus roots don't like remaining in waterlogged soil. Not sure where to plant your tree? Take a few photos of your yard and bring them with you when you visit us. Our team can help point you in the right direction. How to Plant a Citrus Tree in Louisiana Once you've found the perfect location, it's time to plant. Dig your planting hole wide enough to comfortably accommodate the root ball, but be careful not to plant your citrus tree too deeply. The top of the root ball should remain at or slightly above the surrounding soil level. Backfill around the tree, water it thoroughly, and add mulch around the planting area to help retain moisture and reduce weeds. Just remember: don't pile mulch against the trunk. Leave some breathing room around the base of your tree. Watering Newly Planted Citrus Trees Even though temperatures are cooler in the fall, newly planted citrus trees still need consistent water while becoming established. Check the soil regularly and water deeply when needed. Your watering schedule will depend on rainfall, temperatures, soil conditions, and where your tree is planted. The goal is consistent moisture without leaving the roots sitting in saturated soil. Protecting Citrus Trees During a Louisiana Freeze South Louisiana winters may be mild, but freezes can happen. Young citrus trees and more cold-sensitive citrus varieties may require protection when freezing temperatures are forecast. Keep an eye on the weather throughout winter and prepare your trees before temperatures drop. Different citrus varieties can have different levels of cold tolerance, so ask our team about the specific variety you're purchasing and how to care for it during winter. Start Your Own Backyard Orchard Why stop at one fruit tree? Fall is a great time to start planning a backyard orchard in Louisiana . Citrus can be combined with other fruit trees suited to our area to create a landscape that's both beautiful and productive. With the right location, proper care, and a little patience, your backyard could eventually provide fresh fruit for your family season after season. Shop Citrus Trees in Lafayette, Louisiana Ready to start growing? Visit All Seasons Nursery in Lafayette, LA to shop our current selection of citrus trees, fruit trees, and gardening supplies . From satsumas and lemons to oranges, kumquats, and more, our team can help you choose a tree that works for your South Louisiana landscape. Fall is for planting—so now is the time to get your citrus in the ground! Stop by All Seasons Nursery to explore our current selection, and visit our website to stay up to date on new arrivals, plant sales, gardening tips, classes, events, and seasonal updates.

-Re-fresh gardens with seasonal color and perennials for a fall show. -Do not plant pansies until the night time temperatures are 65 degrees or lower. -Plant a cool-season vegetable garden. -Start a salad garden in the ground or containers. -Plant bulbs for spring surprises! Planting is easy: dig, drop, done. We now have a fresh shipment of bulbs coming to the nursery in early September! -Divide and transplant Louisiana irises and perennials. By splitting plants now and transplanting, you can move perennials and give them a strong foothold before the cold weather arrives. Make sure to water heavily the night before and keep new transplants moist until rooted in. -The ruby throated hummingbirds can now be seen during their fall migration. Plant a treat for them! We have several choices. Many of their favorites are perennial fall-blooming plants. -Hybrid tea roses may be pruned now to 18 or 30'' tall to encourage a fall flush of blooms. -Continue to water all plants. -Install fresh sod. Water daily for the first week, and every other day for 3 more weeks. Water twice weekly until temperatures start to drop. -Plant Mums when budding – before flowers are open - to enjoy the burst of full color all season. Mums will be here mid-month. -Fertilize plants. Cooler nights and warmer ground temperatures brings abundant root growth. We recommend our Espoma product line of organic fertilizers. These are non-burning, slow release foods that will help plants build up sugars to carry them through the upcoming winter months. -Continue to harvest your garden vegetables. Freeze beans, corn and peppers. Trim and hang herbs to dry for winter use. -Start a compost or keep perfecting it now in time to help enrich the soil for fall plantings. -Mulch all plants in ground or containers to retain moisture and smother weed growth. -Begin planting trees and shrubs. September is a great time to plant and update your existing landscaping. Plants put in ground during the fall get a strong start for spring next year!

Many people are asking whether the fall is an okay time of the year to plant, with winter being a stone’s throw away. The answer is that it’s the best time of the year to plant! You may think spring is the best time of the year for planting, but it is NOW! By planting in the fall, it takes advantage of the amazing opportunity to get plants established. The first priority after planting is root growth. This occurs best during the fall and winters in Louisiana when shoots and flowers grow slowly. FOCUSED ENERGY Think of the springtime-leaves and limbs growing, flowers erupting, new plants getting established in their new home. It’s a busy time for plants. They have a lot of work to do and they have to do it all at once! It’s like your boss giving you 10 jobs to accomplish all at once. A plant’s energy is pulled into many directions simultaneously. Fall is a different matter. A new tree has only one job to do in the fall-grow new roots. This is exactly what you want a new plant to do for it’s long-term health. A tree will grow roots until the ground freezes in the winter, establishing a strong foundation for it’s future. ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS What season follows spring? Summer. Hot, dry summer. A spring-planted tree will require careful maintenance to insure its immediate health. It is a stressful time for plants, particularly newly-planted ones. Fall planting is less stressful for trees and shrubs. The growth processes are slowing down as the tree goes dormant. This allows the tree to conserve its energy into root production as talked about already. The cooler temperatures and fewer leaves mean that the tree isn’t using as much water which translates into less maintenance for you. Can you successfully plant trees in other seasons? Of course! But the focused energy and the environmental conditions of fall allow for less transplanting shock on newly-planted trees. A tree that is not stressed is a happy, healthy tree. Which translates into less work for you. More time for you to enjoy a cup of coffee on the porch on these crisp mornings. We suggest buying and applying root stimulator when you plant your trees and shrubs. Is this snake oil, or some kind of voodoo? The fine print on the label says it contains something called indole-3-butyric acid. What exactly is this? Well, butyric acid is a synthetic plant hormone that very closely imitates the function of the natural hormone, auxin, in plant development. Auxin is the hormone that tells the tip of a stem or root to grow, and there is an auxin receptor at every node and tip of every stem and root. For example; when our roses become leggy and we cut them back to make them “full” again, we are removing the auxin receptor at the end of that branch, forcing all the side buds along the stem to receive more of the hormone. This is what creates new side branching, which are the next stems to grow and produce new flowers. Just as we deadhead or cut back bushes and shrubs to make them prettier, we tell people to trim or tease the root system of a plant that has just been taken out of a container before planting. This breaks off the tips of those roots that have begun to encircle the base of the pot it was grown in and will allow new side shoots to form at the edges of the root system so the newly forming roots can grow outward and downward, instead of continuing in a spiral. When plants are first in the ground they don’t have the ability to reach any of the water in the soil that is not directly against the existing roots. Many people make the mistake of seeing that some part of their flowerbed is moist and think their plant is okay, but the new plant already drank all of the water right next to its roots and there will be a little halo of dry soil surrounding that new plant. This is where Root Stimulator comes in. Plants really like grow when there are warm days and cool nights and soil temperatures are 55-65 degrees. We can force the plant’s roots to think it’s time to grow, however, by applying the butyric acid. Our root stimulator also contains a wetting agent, which actually helps moisture reach root surfaces, helping those baby roots access every last bit of water available. This will encourage rapid development of new feeder roots and help with easy water absorption while the plant is trying to become established. The fertilizer in root stimulator contains relatively high phosphorus which encourages branching development (think of roots as underground branches), and lower amounts of nitrogen which encourages leaf growth. The larger the root system gets with time, the more water the plant can absorb, even if we are not getting much rain. This is why fully established plants should only ever be irrigated if we are in a serious drought. The surface of our soil may dry very quickly, but the roots of healthy plants are reaching far into the ground to access groundwater not available at the surface. Root stimulator is very easy to use – all you need is a watering can. Simply mix 3-1/2 tablespoons (1.75 oz) of root stimulator into a gallon of water, and water your transplants with it once every two weeks until they get established. Small bedding plants can get about a pint (16 oz) of water, whereas larger plants 2-3 feet tall can get about a half gallon. Larger shrubs and trees will like a full gallon of root stimulator solution once every two weeks. It is important to note that Root Stimulator is not rated for edible plants. By the following spring, your plant should have a well-established root system, and will be ready for conventional fertilizer like tree and shrub food or all-purpose fertilizer.

Want to have the fall feel when looking at your landscape? These currently in stock and in bloom shrubs…yes, during our heat wave…bring those yellows, oranges, and other pops of color we all love to welcome the new fall season! Candy Corn Spirea- Its name goes with its look, which all fits perfectly for the fall season! It has the hue of yellow and orange and shines in the sunlight. Planted in the full-sun, it’s a vibrant and low-maintenance shrub known for its striking color changes through the seasons. Butterfly Vine Mascagnia- This full-sun loving evergreen vine bears dark green leaves, and the plant produces clusters of showy yellow, 1 in. wide, orchid-shaped flowers. A second flowering will often occur in the autumn. This heat loving vine can grow on a trellis without support or can be grown as a mounding shrub or ground. This is a great shrub to consider for mailbox color or any arbor/trellis! Little Lime Hydrangea- This compact shrub is a smaller form of 'Limelight' that features large conical flower heads that start chartreuse and change to pink in the cooler, late-season weather, lasting into fall! The flowers are excellent for cutting, and has green deciduous foliage. It is an excellent choice for a partial sun/shade area. Olive Martini Elaeagnus/Silverberry- This is an excellent option for a full-sun area’s privacy hedge or screen, reaching a mature height and width of 10 feet. It is a large and dense evergreen with quite the fall foliage! It boasts bright, yellow-gold foliage splashed with dark green and subtle, creamy white flower clusters in fall that have a wonderful fragrance. Variegated Shell Ginger- Beautiful large variegated leaves and arching stems create a dramatic tropical effect, bringing fall color to a shaded landscape area. Sunshine Ligustrum- This is an outstanding variety producing dense foliage that matures to gold, which looks show-stopping in all the seasons, but really highlights the fall’s famous gold tones! It’s grown for foliage, and its color is best in the full sun. It’s a low-maintenance and wonderful color addition for borders, screens and mass plantings! Canyon Creek Abelia- This compact shrub has glossy dark green leaves that are tinged bronze, with a dazzling bronze-rose fall color! It also has a tidy, mounded habit, only reaching 3’ x 4’, and tubular pinkish-white flowers, which makes this shrub a welcome addition to smaller spaces planted in full sun. Radiance Abelia- This is another outstanding, compact shrub that produces dense foliage that emerge in yellow-green and matures to silvery-green with white trumpet-shaped flowers. When planted in the full sun, it produces consistent color and density year round, with the creamy white flowers in summer and fall. Only reaching 3’ tall, it’s perfect for smaller spaces in the landscape.  Orange Bird of Paradise- This is a beautiful and bold structural plant with a tropical look and bright orange flowers rising above the foliage, giving the appearance of a bird’s head. The flowers are excellent for a cut flower garden. Crotons- Considered the ultimate “fall favorite,” the croton checks all the boxes for fall flair in a seasonal yard or landscape display. These partial sun/shade lovers are tropical plant so an idea to consider is temporarily adding them to a landscape, then moving them inside or to a patio for winter protection. They are welcome to stay in a landscape year-round, especially to always have a vision for the fall season! Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

Living in Louisiana has many advantages, including our subtropical climate that supports the growth of many different types of plants that require warm, humid temperatures. This includes citrus trees, which are native to subtropical and tropical climates and are winter hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Louisiana USDA hardiness zones cover 8a through 10a. In our southern part of the state citrus trees thrive outdoors with few problems when it comes to temperatures. In central and northern Louisiana, which are in zones 8a and 8b, citrus must be grown in a greenhouse or brought indoors during cold months when there is a threat of frost. Growing citrus in containers can help with this. Cold-hardy citrus such as satsuma, sweet oranges, grapefruit and kumquats can grow well outdoors in Louisiana. Less cold-hardy types such as lemons and limes can survive when protected during hard freezes outdoors once they are older, larger and established. Many home gardeners have lost more tender trees in extended freezes. Some recommended citrus for containers are Improved Meyer lemon, limes and kumquats. These are naturally smaller trees that will last longer in containers. One benefit of growing citrus in containers is being able to bring the plants indoors during extended freezing temperatures. Standard citrus is too big for indoors, but dwarf varieties grafted onto rootstocks that limit their size help make them easier to grow in containers and speed up the fruiting process. Container size and material type is one of the most important factors for success of container-grown citrus. If you buy a 3-gallon-size plant and want to bump up the size, don’t go too large. A 3-gallon pot is 10 inches in diameter. You want to double that size to 20 inches for the next container and allow for growth of roots as well as the tree. Light-colored pots on wheels with drainage holes make great selections because they are portable, and the lighter colors do not heat up as much in the summertime. The wheels make moving the plant indoors in freezing temperatures much easier. You may want to place them on plant dollies for easier movement because if they are heavier. Citrus are active year-round. They do not go dormant in wintertime but do slow their growth. Most citrus will go into active growth in late winter and early spring, followed by flower production that gives way to fruit in the fall and winter. For the best fruit production, place in an area that gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Make sure the pots stay evenly watered. Use a potting mix that has both good water rete Citrus benefits from annual fertilizing that increases with each year of age. Young trees should be fertilized with light but frequent doses of 10-5-5 fertilizer or one specific for citrus throughout the growing season from spring to early fall. Apply fertilizer in a 3-foot-diameter circle around the tree directly under the tree canopy by spreading. Do not mound fertilizer around the trunk. Stop applying in late fall and winter. Limit the size of your trees and promote bigger fruit by pruning after they have produced and you have harvested. Be sure to remove rootstock suckers that have thorns with pruners. Most importantly, protect citrus in freezing temperatures by moving them inside until the danger of frost passes. Citrus offers interest year-round with evergreen foliage, highly fragrant flowers and, best of all, tasty, nutritious fruit that can be picked from the comfort of your home patio. Article by LSU Ag Center. Click Here to Visit Online.

Nothing tastes better than homegrown fruits and vegetables. The whole process, from planting the tree, to harvesting the fruit. It is so rewarding. You literally get to eat the fruits of your own labor! Maybe you haven’t tried growing different fruiting trees or shrubs, but did you know that right here in South Louisiana we can grow all different kinds of citrus, figs, peaches, plums, pears, blueberries and more!? When planning out your own home orchard, consider the following factors: Site: The more sun, the better. Fruiting plants need a lot of sunshine to produce the most fruits. Also high on the list, drainage. Make sure that the location where you choose to plant your plants does not hold a lot of water. Your fruit trees will not like to have wet roots. And some trees, like peach trees, are already very susceptible to fungus. Soil: Make sure that you add a generous amount of healthy, rich, gardening soil. Not top soil, gardening soil. Blueberries are VERY particular about their soil. The soil needs to be acidic, rich with organic matter, and they need a heavy application of mulch around the base. Selection: Making the right selection of plants for your orchard is very important. You will want to choose varieties that have proven performance for our area; taking into consideration the heat, humidity, rainfall, and something we call “Chilling Hours.” The term Chilling Hours refers to the amount of hours that the temperature is below 45 Degrees Fahrenheit through the winter season. So if a tree says that it requires 200 Chilling Hours, than in order for it to produce fruit, it must be less than 45 degrees for over 200 hours. If you blindly choose a fruiting plant, and know nothing about the number of chilling hours that it requires to bear fruit, than you may have just planted a tree that will never bear fruit. Additionally, in the “Selection” category, make sure that you are aware if the plants that you choose require an additional pollinator. Citrus trees are self-pollinating. This means that you can simply plant one citrus tree and have citrus fruit. However; most varieties of plums, peaches, apples and blueberries will require you to plant two different cultivars in order to have successful fruit production. This may seem like a lot of things to consider when thinking about planting some fruiting plants for yourself, but trust us, the rewards will be worth the work! There is nothing like picking an apple or peach right off of the tree, or a blueberry or blackberry right off of the shrub or vine- and eating it!  We are always here to help you with all these factors to select the right plant in the right area and to ultimately put the "fruit of your labor" on your plate!

Assess the Damage A flower garden can tell you a lot at the end of the growing season. You'll want to assess the results of all your spring and summer work, and prepare the garden for next spring. First, take a walk around your garden and look at how all the plants did over the summer. Track successes and failures of individual plants. Identify which plants have outgrown their space and need to be divided. Add Mulch Determine which bare areas could use soil amendment and new plants. Add mulch where necessary. Check for Diseases Check the overall health of plants — look for diseases and damage. Replace Old with New Replace summer annuals in containers and garden beds with cool-weather flowers. Prepare You'll want to weed, deadhead faded blooms, divide overgrown plants, dig up non-hardy bulbs for winter storage, remove spent annuals, amend soil and add needed mulch. Replace ties with jute twine. Natural fibers make the best ties because they're more flexible. They'll break down over time, but at that point, it will be time to retie the plants anyway. Amend soil where there are bare spots or where you've removed annuals. Add compost and peat moss to replace nutrients lost during summer growth and to better prepare the soils for spring planting. Turn the amendments into the soil with a garden fork to distribute it evenly. Brush off any mulch that's sitting on branches of shrubs because it can cause leaves and needles to yellow. Preparing the Lawn Fall is a good time to do some minor maintenance in the lawn. Raking up old dead grass (thatching) helps the grass put out new runners for a more lush lawn. Fall is the time for fungus, so a systemic fungicide at this time can help us get ahead of fungus issues. Spreading a pre-emergent herbicide (such as dimension or preen) in the lawn can help us prevent cool season weeds before they start. If you have any established weedy patches, now is also the time to take care of those. Using Weed Free Zone (2-4d) will take care of established weeds in the lawn. Rose Care September is a great time to cut back roses in South Louisiana. Trim back about 25% of the bush and remove canes that are crossing each other to promote better air flow. Fertilize with an organic fertilizer to have another fall show of flowers before winter. Clematis Care Cut the vine back to the ground. New shoots will form from the base next spring. Remove All Annuals from the Garden Remove all annuals from the garden. You can save seeds from most annuals and plant them next year. Zinnias are an easy plant to collect seeds from and to grow from seed. For window boxes, simply remove summer annuals, add more potting mix and plant cool-weather bloomers like ornamental kale and pansies. Disinfect Pruners Disinfect pruners before using them on other plants as you remove spent blooms and foliage throughout the garden. Compost Bin Don't put any diseased plants into your compost pile. Perennial Border Dividing perennials reinvigorates plants and gives you new plants to add to other areas of your garden or to share with neighbors and friends. Ready Your Container Plants Believe it or not, the most overlooked group of plants this time of year is container plants, and there are plenty of things to consider with respect to their care. Annual Container By definition, these plants only last a year, but there are ways to extend their lives. You can, for example, take cuttings of various annuals and root the in either water or a potting medium such as vermiculite, perlite or soil-less potting mix.Just remember to strip all but the top few leaves off the stem, keep the potting medium moist at all times and keep plants out of direct sunlight. Within a few weeks the plants should develop a dense mass of roots, at which point you can pot them up and grow them as houseplants. This doesn't work with all annuals, but it's fun to experiment. Tropical Container Many tropicals, including palms and bananas, make excellent houseplants throughout the winter months. A good move now is to make room for all your tropical plants indoors, because this is also the time of year when sudden drops in temperature can come seemingly out of nowhere. Woody tropicals such as plumeria and citrus can easily be overwintered indoors - or in the garage, as long as the temperature doesn't drop below freezing. Transplanting Perennials Consider transplanting perennials from their containers directly into the garden. Carefully remove them from their pots, trim their roots a bit to stimulate the growth of new feeder roots, stick them in the ground and trim their top growth a little. Herb Container They tend to look pretty shabby toward the end of summer, so either harvest and dry them or consider moving them indoors. Generally, though, herbs don't do very well inside unless they get a lot of natural or fluorescent light. (The same goes for most succulents, though cacti seem to fair best among them.) We have Grow Lights specially formulated for indoor plants! These bulbs fit into any standard light socket! Keep the Birds Coming When you invite birds into your yard by feeding them, they do a fantastic job of keeping the insect population in check, which means you don't have to spray or dust as often to control pests.  Don't Forget the Shed! Take time to clean your garden storage area, tossing old chemicals — responsibly of course — and taking note of what you'll need to replenish before next spring.A number of gardening products have a shelf life and may lose their effectiveness over time or if they get too hot or too cold. That's particularly true of botanical insecticides such as Bt and beneficial fungi.And of course you should tend to your tools. Rub metal tool surfaces with a light coating or oil; rub wooden tool handles with boiled linseed oil; and sharpen everything that needs it with a proper file.

Fall is upon us, so it's time to add those new plants to your landscape! You may think spring is the best time of the year for planting, but it is NOW! By planting in the fall, it takes advantage of the amazing opportunity to get plants established. The first priority after planting is root growth. This occurs best during the fall and winters in Louisiana when shoots and flowers grow slowly. In Louisiana, trees can be planted until the second week in January. There are several excellent LSU Ag Center recommendations, Louisiana Super Plants, like Shoal Creek vitex, sweetbay magnolia, willow oak & southern sugar maple. These are some of our favorites, too! Shrubs, roses and flowering perennials also do great when planted now. Shrubs are the "bones" of a landscape. There are many selections to plant now, and by following proper planting procedures and care will lead to success. Popular shrubs for our area are: azaleas; camellias; hydrangeas; Indian hawthorns; loropetalums; viburnum; cleyera; gardenia; and more! A well planned landscape most often contains both deciduous and evergreen plants. Using both types help to accent seasonal changes. A landscape can be refreshed by using a variety of plants! Contrast with texture and color. From the ground up: Soil preparation for fall planting · When planting in containers, choose a good quality potting soil or container mix. Some may have a slow release fertilizer in them. · When planting in established beds, refresh soil with compost, bed builder, soil conditioner, etc. · When starting new flower beds or vegetable beds, start with bed builder, add compost, peat moss, and slow release fertilizers like manure, bone & blood meal, cottonseed meal, kelp meal or Osmocote. · When planting single trees or shrubs, mix soil taken from the planting hole and mix in compost. Plant tree/shrub on a mound; use soil/compost underneath the root ball and around it. Mulch well. · Always mulch your plants well. It will help with moister retention, soil temperature fluctuations (keeps soil temperatures cooler in summer/warmer in winter) and controls weeds. Caring for plants in the fall · Insect and disease problems are minimal in fall and winter. · A few things to watch for are: Cabbage worms on fall veggies; scale insects on hollies, camellias and citrus trees. · On vegetables use bacillus thuringiensis or spinosad. · Scale insects can be controlled with horticultural oil sprays. Some favorite plants for fall · Early fall color: crotons; mums; ornamental peppers; ornamental cabbage & kale; marigolds; petunias; Swiss chard; red mustard; lobelia; calendulas; gaillardia · Fall & winter color: pansies; violas; snapdragons; petunias; alyssum; calendulus ; leaf plants like ornamental cabbage & kale; colorful lettuces; chard · Perennial color for fall: perennial salvias; hamelia (Fire bush); gaillardia; buddleia; firespike; lantana; rudbeckia · Fall & winter vegetables: cabbage; broccoli; cauliflower; Brussel sprouts; radish; carrot; turnip; spinach; lettuce; beets; chard; arugula; endive; celery · Cool season herbs: parsley; cilantro; dill; fennel; rosemary; thyme; mint; cutting celery · Fruit trees/shrubs: apple; peach; pear; plum; fig; pomegranate; persimmon; mayhaw; blueberry; citrus · Fruiting vines: grapes; muscadines; blackberry; raspberries · Cold hardy trees/shrubs: maples; oaks; birch; holly; azalea; camellia, etc. Did you know we offer FREE consultations "tes for landscaping & landscaping maintenance? We want you to fall in love with a new landscape or your existing landscape cleaned up and ready for the seasons!