Build a Backyard Sanctuary for Pollinators

May signifies the last month of spring and the transition to summer. May is also when your cool weather annuals like, pansies, petunias, snapdragons and others will play out and it's time to replace with heat loving annuals. These plants will grow, bloom and perform throughout the summer and fall until it's time again for the cool weather annuals. Here are the most popular, top performing heat loving annuals for our area: Sun loving summer annuals include: Vinca – Heat and drought tolerant, and offering continual without deadheading, these are a staple summer flowering plant. Vinca do not like cool weather or too much moisture, so be sure to place them in an area that will be well-drained. Read our blog on Vinca here. Zinnia – Zinnias are great plants for butterfly gardeners. They really bring in loads of the hovering beauties into the back yard. Zinnias do require some deadheading to promote rebloom, and the lower foliage in summer can get tired, so use these in the middle or back of a flowerbed. Angelonia – These are sometimes called Summer Snapdragons. Their tall, spiky blooms are surely reminiscent of cool-season snapdragon flowers. Angelonia are heat and disease resistant. The Serena varieties are an LSU Super Plant. Lantana – Like several on this list, Lantana are especially popular with butterfly enthusiasts. Lantana grow in very challenging, poor soils with plenty of sun. Too much shade or too much nitrogen fertilizer may result in of an abundance of leaves but few blooms. Put this one out by the mailbox where you might not always get to it with the hose, and it will appreciate the neglect. Penta – Pentas are my all-time favorite problem-free annual. Heat and drought tolerant, bug and disease-proof, Pentas are not especially fussy about sun or soil, either. They give good rebloom without deadheading, and they are another great nectar plant for pollinators. Strap Leaf Caladiums – Many know caladiums as a great source of color for shady areas, but did you know that several varieties can take full sun? These bold foliage plants always look good, because they do not depend on flowering to look good. See a sales associate to find out how to pick out the varieties that take sun. Sun Coleus – Just like caladiums for sun, many new coleus varieties are true sun-lovers. This is another plant that is always a stunner in the garden, because they get their visual appeal from the leaves, not flowers. Keep coleus well-watered until fully established, and they will be very tough and durable plants after they have spread their roots. Salvia – Annual and perennial salvias alike are true staples of the summer garden. Many get a second wave of heavy blooming from late summer into fall, when more sensitive garden plants are slowing down. Salvias attract another favorite garden visitor – hummingbirds! Bronze Leaf Begonia – Tropical, heat-loving, and drought tolerant, begonias are great garden plants. Did you know that bronze-leaved varieties take full sun? They are very water-wise, and handle drought well, but cannot handle wet soils. Plant them in well-drained beds. Purslane / Portulaca – These two succulent summer annuals are different plants, but their care is very similar. These plants like LOTS of sun and VERY little water. Good to plant in sandy or rocky soils, or great in pots, especially those that don’t get watered often. These plants can survive, and in fact bloom and be healthy, with several weeks without water. Shade loving summer annuals include: Impatiens – Impatiens are a great plant in partly sunny to shady locations that get plenty of moisture. Many folks are opting for the newer New guinea Impatiens for their improved vigor and resistance to fungus. Caladiums – While some types of Caladiums have been proven to endure some sun, all Caladiums do very well in shade. Bold, tropical leaves, in tones of red, pink, white, and green, brighten up the shadiest corners with an uninterrupted show until fall. If plants flower, blooms should be pinched off so the plant can produce more beautiful leaves. Green Leaf Begonia – While impatiens are moisture lovers, begonias can do dry shade very well. The clean green leaves are not fazed by heat, and they plants bloom continuously without additional fertilizer or deadheading. In the right spot, begonias sometimes survive the winter and come back year after year! Torenia – Torenia is also known as wishbone flower. It is a dainty and compact plant, but it puts out loads of blooms even in shade, and it does not slow down with the heat. There are upright and trailing types, but both stay in place well, and do not become lanky or messy. They also do very well in hanging baskets! Shade Coleus – Traditionally, Coleus have been shade plants, and they continue to be one of the most exciting plants to use in less sunny areas of the flower bed. The amount of color choices and leaf types is incredible! There is truly a coleus out there to please everyone. Potato Vine – Potato vine is a plant that can grow well in very challenging conditions. Since the root is a giant tuber, they do not need loads of organic material to put out good growth. I especially like to use it among the roots of large shade trees as a ground cover. The lime green varieties look especially bright and cheerful in shady areas. Lysimachia – Creeping Jenny and its relatives are going to really shine in shady areas, but can take some good sun, too. They make bright, carefree groundcovers, and look especially good in hanging baskets. Creeping Jenny can brighten any planter combo with its vigorous, chartreuse shoots of perfect rounded foliage. Within these categories there are different series and within each series there are different varieties to choose from. When replacing your annuals you should add some fresh soil and a slow release fertilizer. Remember to properly water your annuals until they are established and growing. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

One of the most popular annual bedding plants in Louisiana is vinca, or periwinkle. It is well-known for its prolific and long blooming season and is the favored flowering plant of choice for home gardeners and professional landscapers around the state for warm season color. Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) is a heat- and drought-tolerant plant that normally thrives under Louisiana growing conditions. Thirty years ago, periwinkle flower colors were limited to white, white with a red eye and a rosy purple. Breeding work in the 1980s involved crossing Catharanthus roseus with other species to improve the color range, increase blooming and flower size and improve the growth habit. Vincas now come in a plethora of colors, including pink, deep rose, red, scarlet, white, white with a red eye, lavender blue, peach, apricot, orchid, burgundy and many other shades. They generally grow from 10 to 18 inches tall with a spread of about 1 foot, although trailing types spread to about 2 feet. Even with improvements in the plant, a number of diseases still limit vinca performance in Louisiana and other southern states. One of these diseases is known as Phytophthora blight caused by a soil-borne fungal-like microorganism called Phytophthora parasitica. This pathogen has always been present in our soils and can devastate vinca plantings. The disease is favored by warm, wet weather and rapidly spreads during extended periods of rainfall. And compacted soils with poor drainage may predispose roots to Phytophthora infections. The pathogen is responsible for causing root and crown rot, and the affected plants appear blighted. Symptoms on above-ground plant parts appear as water-soaked, greasy lesions on the foliage and on the base of the affected shoots. Individual shoots wilt and weaken. As the disease develops, reddish, dark brown cankers appear on the stems. The pathogen also causes root rot, resulting in the roots shedding their outer layer. Often, sections of the plant wilt and turn brown while other parts remain healthy. A severe attack can essentially wipe out an entire planting. Fungicides for home gardens and commercial landscapes are available to manage Phytophthora blight. In addition to fungicides when the disease is present, good management is essential to combat the disease. If you want to have the best vinca in your landscape, consider these practices. – Select a full-sun planting location with eight hours of direct sun daily. – Prepare the landscape bed to allow for drainage and aeration. Raise the bed at least 6 inches if drainage is questionable. – Plant in soil with a pH level of 5.5. Vincas need acidic soil. – Avoid planting earlier than May. Soil and nighttime temperatures need to be warm prior to planting. May 1 is the recommended planting date. Many times, home gardeners and landscapers plant vinca in landscape beds in late March and April. – Plant so that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly higher than the soil of the bed. Proper spacing also is important because crowded planting limits air circulation and can create conditions more favorable for disease development. Space transplants at least 10-12 inches apart. – Mulch with pine straw to decrease splashing of rainfall and irrigation water from soil to the lower stems and foliage of the plants. However, avoid excessive mulching to prevent continuous wetting of the plant crowns. – Manage irrigation properly. Vinca require minimal irrigation. Avoid overhead irrigation, when practical. When plants make it through the spring and early summer without disease, hold back irrigation or Alternaria leaf spotting – another fungal disease – may develop heading into fall. – Don’t plant vincas in the same bed year after year. – Don’t plant periwinkles in beds where Phytophthora blight has been a problem in the past. There is good news. New vinca varieties are resistant to some diseases. The Cora and Nirvana series are some of the newer vincas that have genetics in the breeding that makes these varieties resistant to Phytophthora blight. The new Valiant series from PanAmerican Seed for 2016 also shows great promise in disease resistance. Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

Caladiums are an A+ selection for reliable color in areas that get some shade. And one investment can provide years of color. Easy enough for the casual gardener to expect routine success, the caladium’s elegant beauty also makes it a staple in the most accomplished gardener’s landscape. Native to tropical South America, caladiums grow from tubers and thrive in the heat and humidity of our long summers. They are remarkably free of major insect or disease problems. Caladiums (Caladium x hortulanum) are grown for their attractive foliage. The 6-to-12-inch heart-shaped leaves emerge from the ground on arching stems that are generally 1 to 2 feet tall but can grow taller. The foliage may be splashed with combinations of white, pink, rose, red, burgundy, chartreuse or green, often with several colors combining in wonderful patterns. These bright leaves with their bold texture embellish our shady gardens from May until October when the tubers go dormant. Where to plant Caladiums grow best in shade to part shade (two to four hours of direct sun, preferably morning) or bright dappled light. In these conditions, they produce the lushest growth with large, colorful leaves. The caladium plants you purchase at nurseries are usually grown in shady greenhouses, and the foliage will often scorch or burn if you plant them into beds that receive too much direct sun. This often results in brown areas and holes literally burned into the leaves. If the light conditions are appropriate, the new leaves that emerge will be adapted to the increased light and not burn. Some cultivars are more tolerant of sunny conditions and are successful in beds receiving part to full sun (six hours or more of direct sun) as long as they receive adequate irrigation. When grown in full sun, caladiums tend to produce smaller and more brightly colored foliage, and the plants will be shorter. Planting caladiums You can purchase caladiums two different ways. Buying caladium tubers is the most economical way to add caladiums to your landscape. You can buy caladium tubers and plant them directly into well-prepared beds now. Plant the tubers about 2 inches deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. You should see growing points or even pinkish-white sprouts on the knobby side of the tuber. That side is planted up. The smoother side is the bottom of the tuber. Wait until unsprouted tubers have emerged and grown several inches tall before mulching them. Caladiums are also available growing in 4- to 6-inch pots, and they will provide immediate color in the landscape. Growing caladium bulbs should be planted with the top of the root ball level with the soil of the bed. Plant them 8 to 12 inches apart into well-prepared beds, and they will grow larger and more beautiful through the summer. Once growing caladiums are planted, mulch the bed with 2 inches of your favorite mulch and water them in. Keep beds of caladiums well-watered during the summer, especially those receiving lots of sun. Winter care In late September or early October, longer nights and cooler temperatures encourage caladiums to go dormant. But the tubers you plant this summer can be used to grow caladiums next year, either left in the ground or stored and replanted. If the beds where the caladiums are planted will stay relatively undisturbed and if drainage is good and they will not stay too wet during winter, you may simply leave the caladium tubers in the ground. Or you may choose to dig and store them. This is the most reliable way of making sure they grow another year. Dig caladiums when a number of leaves turn yellow and most of the foliage begins to look “tired” and falls over. Use a shovel or a garden fork to lift the tubers, being careful not to damage them. Leaving the foliage attached, shake and brush off most of the soil from the tubers and lay them out in a single layer in a dry location sheltered from rain (in a garage, under a carport). After the foliage becomes tan and papery in appearance, pull it from the tubers and store the tubers in paper bags indoors where temperatures stay around 70 degrees through winter. With poor growing conditions, particularly in areas of heavy shade or sunny, dry locations, the plants will likely produce small, weak tubers that may not return well either left in the ground or dug and stored. Under the right circumstances and with proper care, however, the tubers you plant this year can provide a beautiful display again next year and for years to come.  Article by LSU Ag Center. Visit online here.

Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. When you know how to care for hibiscus plants, you will be rewarded with many years of lovely flowers! Here are some tips on how to care for these tropical flowers: Growing Hibiscus in Containers: Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do. Hibiscus plants prefer a cozy fit when growing in a container. This means that they should be slightly root bound in the pot and when you do decide to repot, give the hibiscus only a little bit more room. Always make sure that your growing hibiscus plant has excellent drainage. Hibiscus and Temperature: When you care for a hibiscus, you should remember that hibiscus plants flower best in temperatures between 60-90 F and cannot tolerate temps below 32 degrees F. In the summer, your hibiscus plant can go outside, but once the weather gets cold and we have another freeze, bring it inside protected. Watering Hibiscus: When hibiscus are in their blooming stage, they require large amounts of water. Your hibiscus will need daily watering in warm weather. But once the weather cools, your hibiscus needs far less water, and too much water can kill it. In the winter, water your hibiscus only when the soil is dry to the touch. Fertilizing Hibiscus: A growing hibiscus plant needs lots of nutrients in order to bloom well. In the summer, use a high potassium fertilizer. You can either use a diluted liquid fertilizer one a week, a slow release fertilizer once a month or you can add a high potassium compost to the soil. In the winter, you don’t need to fertilize at all. These are the basics for how to care for hibiscus plants in your garden. They are an easy maintenance, high impact flower that will make a garden in any part of the world look like a tropical paradise. We carry a special Hibiscus fertilizer called HibisGain, that has been developed by South Florida Hibiscus breeders who show their plants in national and international competitions. Always make sure your fertilizer says that it is for hibiscus and tropicals, not an all-purpose fertilizer. FoxFarm Ocean Forest potting soil is excellent for hibiscus, houseplants, and other tropicals. Fafard Ultra Potting Mix is another soil mix formulated especially for hibiscus and other tropical plants. Click here for our blog "Bougainvillea & Hibiscus"

When we hear the word “Celsius” we think of our Fahrenheit temperature scale’s counterpart. When we think of degrees Fahrenheit, we often think of Summer time. Now, we have a new product to associate with summer heat, and that is Celsius, the #1 lawn weed killer for SUMMER. That’s right, this new product will kill 120+ common unwanted weeds in your lawns without burning your grass…in the heat of our 90-degree F+ summer temps! Some of the main highlights we love about this new product are: · Controls common weeds in St. Augustine, Centipede, Bermuda, Zoysia and Buffalo · Broad-spectrum control of grassy weeds, such as crabgrass and broadleaf weeds · Weed growth ceases within hours of application. Note that complete control may require several weeks depending on temperature · Each pack covers 2,000 square feet at the high rate, which is perfect for backpack sprayers All you will need is a single dose of this product to apply the simple application! You can broadcast this over your entire yard (2,000 sq ft) or you can spot treat as needed, such as when you see those pesky clover patches pop up. How do you apply? We always insist on you reading the directions on the product’s package before any application. However, here is a brief guide… Measure your lawn’s square footage first. If it’s not 2,000 sq ft, you can half this product and do it now and again later. Fill a sprayer with water to a known mark as indicated on the packaging. Water your lawn. Spray the product uniformly. Refill if needed as indicted by your sprayer’s capacity. Sit back and know your summer weeds won’t enjoy the summer as much as you will!

Choosing a Container: Virtually any type of clear plastic or glass container will work just fine. Bottles, fish bowls, jars…you name it! There are even special containers built just for terrariums. Your choices are endless. Just make sure that you choose a clear leak-proof container that’s been cleaned with hot, soapy water. Tinted or cloudy glass or plastic will interfere with plant growth by reducing light. Preparation: The next step is to begin building your terrarium. First, place a layer of pea gravel or aquarium rocks in the bottom of your container for drainage. Next, put about ½’’ layer of horticultural charcoal to keep the soil from developing a rotten smell. Over the charcoal, you have the option of placing Sphagnum moss to keep soil from getting into the drainage area. Last you will add about ½’’ of relatively dry soil to your terrarium, dry enough so that it won’t stick to the sides. You might want to add hills or slopes to add interest to your terrarium. The easiest way to add these materials is with a large kitchen spoon. Planting: After the soil, add decorative pieces such as rocks, wood, seashells, or any other small item that won’t be harmful to your plants. Remember to arrange these in the terrarium so that you still have plenty of room for your plants. Now start scooping out the potting holes for your plants. When you insert your plants into the holes, don’t plant them too deep or too shallow. They should sit no lower or higher above the soil line than how they were planted in their original pots. Be sure that you pack the soil firmly around the base of your plants. If you’ve got a fairly deep container, you can use tongs to place your plants into the terrarium. If you’d like, you can add moss and more decorative items to enhance the beauty of your terrarium.  Please do not Disturb: When you build a terrarium, remember that they really do thrive on neglect. There’s no heavy watering necessary at this time, and all you’ll need to do is spray the leaves down with a water bottle, as this is plenty of moisture to settle the soil. Let your terrarium sit until the next day, and check the water at the bottom, making sure that it doesn’t exceed ¼ inch. Spray again and wait until the leaves are completely dry, then place the cover on your terrarium. All that’s left is to sit back and watch your plants flourish in your beautiful, homemade terrarium.

These annuals, perennials, vines and other hardy growers make great companions for a mailbox garden design. We have HUNDREDS of choices for your mailbox garden, both in perennials and annuals. If short evergreen shrubs, like the shi shi camellia, or vining climbers, like the Peggy Martin rose, or a jasmine are your style, we have many selections for you as well. Stroll and shop our now expanded garden center to plant the perfect plants(s). Coreopsis auriculata 'Nana' Also known as tickseed, Coreopsis auriculata is a North America native perennial that grows easily in conditions of full sun and soil with medium moisture. Yellow blooms appear from May to June that attract butterflies and the seeds that are produced resemble ticks, hence the common name tickseed. Purple Homestead Verbena Verbena Canadensis ‘Homestead Purple’ requires full sun for the best results and produces a vivid purple flower. A slender-stemmed perennial verbena in a deep, royal purple bloom cluster typical of verbenas, it can grow to heights of 12 inches and widths of 3 feet and can bloom from late summer to the first frost Rosemary Winter hardy, Rosmarinus officinalis is a herbaceous perennial that grows best in full sun and produces pale blue and white flowers during the bloom season. Fragrant and easy to prune and shape, rosemary is an easy maintenance choice for mailbox areas, herb gardens or patio containers. The best part is being able to cut some off for your favorite recipes while you are checking the mail. Cora Cascade Vinca Vinca is one of the toughest, heat-loving annuals for our climate, and the Cora series has a hearty helping of disease resistance, as well. Nothing will flower as much in full sun and hot conditions as the annual vinca. This flower requires no deadheading, little fertilizer, and should only be watered during drought when well-established. Clematis Clematis is a genus within the buttercup family Ranunculaceae with more than 300 species. Clematis is popular with gardeners for its lovely blooms and ability to grow on walls, fences, mailboxes and other areas to highlight its foliage to best advantage. Yarrow A perennial that thrives in full sun and well drained, low moisture soil, produces sweet & small flowers and fern-like, silvery foliage with a bloom period of June to September. Maiden Grass Miscanthus sinensis is a perennial ornamental grass which can grow from 3 to 6 feet in height and spread as wide, depending on variety. With its graceful plumes, which can range in color from sand-pink to silvery-white, maiden grass makes an appealing living hedge or border. They tolerate tough conditions associated with a roadside planting. Pink muhly grass stays around 3’x3’ and blooms a soft pink cotton-candy-like foliage for interest in fall. For best results, plan on cutting them back to the ground in early spring. Summer Phlox Native to North America, Phlox paniculata is a summer flowering perennial whose mid-summer to mid-fall blooms may vary in color from white to purple. It requires sandy, loamy soil and can take partial shade and partial to full sun. Butterfly Iris Best grown in full sun to part shade, Butterfly Iris is a perennial that can tolerate poor, dry soil due to its thick root system. The blooms are creamy white and yellow flowers on 28 inch stalks and attracts hummingbirds. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!

Shop for the one you love at the place she loves! We are your Mother's Day Headquarters! From plants to accessories, we have everything your Mom will sure to love! We also offer gift cards in any mount so Mom can pick out her own presents or plants! Mother's Day is May 12. Click here to read Mom Must Haves It's time to change out tired, cool-season annuals with heat-loving summer annuals such as: Angelonia, pentas, portulaca, vinca & much more. Planting tropical sun lovers like hibiscus is ideal now, too. To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants after their first flower cycle is complete. MAY TO DO LIST: -Plant warm-season bedding plants. Vinca can now be planted for best results! Don’t know which warm-season bedding plants will be best for your area? Come visit us for a wide selection and knowledge to be successful! -To encourage more rapid re-blooming, pinch off old flowers on bedding plants. -It’s a great time to plant a crape myrtle tree for great summer flowering. -Prune & feed azaleas & camellias once their blooming has finished. -Sow seeds for heat-loving annuals and watch them begin to grow! This is a fun kid project, too, once school is out. -Now is the time to plant all kinds of summer-loving vegetables. -Prune & shape all winter-flowering shrubs and vines. -Mulch all garden beds well to help regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and keep weeds at bay. An excellent mulch to try, in addition to Grade ‘A’ Cypress or Cedar, is pine straw. To effectively suppress weeds, apply mulch 2 inches thick. -When in the garden, wear a wide brim hat and apply sunscreen. -Plants you had indoors for cool weather can now reside outside. -Place houseplant containers in an area that receives bright shade- not direct sun. -Don't forget to fill bird feeders with seed! -Watch for insect problems on roses. Aphids may develop on tender new growth, thrips on flowers and cucumber beetles on foliage. Let us know and we'll set you up with the proper treatment. -After spring bulbs finish flowering, wait until the foliage turns yellow before cutting it off. This is because food is being manufactured and stored for next year’s blooms.

If you love the beauty of a garden as well as sweet-smelling flowers and plants to give both your eyes and nose a Springtime delight, then check out these “nose”worthy specimens! Gardenia: Gardenias are one of the most iconic sweet smelling shrubs around, and we are lucky that they do so well in our climate. Their smell is often bottled for perfumes or added to extracts in soaps and lotions. Planting these at an entrance or around your outdoor entertaining area is sure to have your guests breathing in a deep breath to savoy the smell. Butterfly Bush, Buddleia: While there are many different varieties of Butterfly Bush with colors ranging from white to purple, pink, blue or even yellow, two things they all have in common are their honey-like fragrance and being a magnet to butterflies. In fact they are so rich in nectar, they are highly attractive to other beneficial insects and pollinators like bees, moths and hummingbirds, too. They are flowering shrubs that produce distinctive flowers starting in spring and lasting into fall. Scented Geranium (Pelargonium Citronella): This perennial that we’ve also nicknamed “Mosquito Plant/Shocker” has a strong citronella scent we find pleasant, but mosquitos hate. This is an ideal plant to banish the bug (mosquitoes), which is why we recommend planting this in your entertaining area, such as in container gardens. It’s also a great plant to crush the leaves and rub them on your skin while outdoors; offer some leaves to your company as a fun “party trick!” As a bonus, it blooms clusters of lavender-pink flowers adorned with deep crimson brush marks on the tops of their petals. Rosemary: Rosemary is an attractive perennial shrub with fragrant leaves. It’s also a popular culinary herb with a wonderful aroma and piney taste, which goes well with chicken, steak, pastas potatoes, or soups. In liquid form, its scent is enjoyed in soaps, diffusers and more! Rosemary also blooms small, sweet blue flowers. Skinner’s Banana Shrub: Is this a banana tree? Nope, it’s a magnolia, but its blooms smell just like bananas! It’s a worthwhile broadleaf evergreen shrub reaching heights of 10ft in full sun. The spring time flowers are small, cup-shaped and cream in color with a pleasing banana scent! This is a perfect plant for a border or screen hedge! Citrus Trees: Before you can pluck an orange or other citrus for your snack, the tree becomes covered in blooms! These blooms are white, fragrant sweet-smelling flowers with the buzz of pollinators in the air nearby! Society Garlic: These spring-blooming perennials produce stalks of star-shaped purple flowers. The plant gets its name from not only looking like garlic/chives, but smelling like garlic. However, it’s not garlic and is ornamental only, meaning to be enjoyed by your eyes and nose and not your taste buds! It’s a great plant for a full sun flower bed or container since it only reaches about a foot tall and wide. Plus, the garlic smell adds a twist of garden delight! Specialty Roses: “Take Time to Stop and Smell the Roses” is an idiom that means to relax and take time out to enjoy and appreciate the beauty of life. But, it’s also literal because the Specialty Roses smell absolutely heavenly. Planting a rose garden is a beautiful way to share the love of gardening with the love of beautiful blooms, beautiful scents and flowers worthy of being in a vase for interior enjoyment. Lavender: Lovely lavender adds a relaxing vibe and aroma to a garden or container. Lavender grows 1-3’ tall and has those long airy spikes with soft blue-violet flowers quintessential with the Mediterranean. The oils in the flowers are what give this herb its distinctive fragrance. When inhaled, lavender has calming properties that reduce anxiety, as well as being a gentle sedative for sleep. Its name derives from the Latin root “lavare,” which means “to wash,” because it was used in baths to purify the body and spirit. Magnolia: Plant Louisiana’s state flower as a show of culture as well as to enjoy the fragrant (and large) white flowers of this “famous face.” This evergreen tree is low maintenance and adaptable, not to mention making a strong southern statement. The blooms begin to burst open in spring & summer unleashing the sweet aroma of its flower. Don’t want a 40’+ tree in your front yard? The Little Gems, reaching only 12-14’ tall, offer a great alternative. Confederate Jasmine: These are some vines that really shine…or should we say “smell?!” Planting Confederate Jasmine along a fence, on a trellis, arbor or even a mailbox, adds a beautiful look and a strong sweet smell. This evergreen climber is known for its fragrant white star-shaped blooms, which will be more prolific when planted in full sun. Please note- All Seasons may or may not have these plants in stock available to purchase at the time you come to purchase these. If you're ever looking for something specific, please call the garden center at 337.264.1418 or send an email question via this link prior to your shopping visit!